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An interpretation of movement, SS15 Monsieur ‘Bodyworks’ by  Viktor & Rolf transitions the man from office to gym. With a collection that is an intelligent hybrid of relaxation versus tension, a jersey blazer is paired with logo sweatshirts, a polo shirt is paired with a smart fine knit jersey and modern tailoring has active wear quirks such as combat pockets on an otherwise traditional suit.

Strong statement pieces are the result of a trompe l’oeil effect that gives the illusion of layering throughout the collection, whilst influences from early 20^th century modern art are clear with Cubist prints that cover a denim jacket and a mackintosh, filtering through to scarves and shirts where the pattern takes on a supporting role under a subtly detailed silver-grey dinner jacket. Other details include both shirts and trousers made from contrasting fabric, sewn together like hyper chic patchwork.

A masculine colour card underlines the essence of the collection. Icy blue, pearl grey, and dark aubergine are brightened with highlights of an orange cuff and collar that shine through a super casual waxed pinstripe suit, and head to toe teal makes light of office wear.

The masculine sport/work essence of the collection is finished with a modern interpretation of the classic men’s shoe. Patent leather brogues have a workout gear edge with complimentary rubber stripes running around the sole and smart suits are downplayed with leather high top trainers of the same colour. Monsieur transitions from office to gym with a little help from the dynamic duo, Viktor & Rolf.

Words: Remy Millar

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Sleeveless blazer by Alexander McQueen, top by M Missoni

From left to right: Sofia: Inner shirt by Levi’s Red Tab, purple dress by Sandro, white dress by Charlie May, shoes by Peter Jensen. Klaudyna: Inner white top by MM6, pink top by Bimba & Lola, skirt by Marni. Madi: Jacket by Dsquared2, trousers by Charlie May. Inga: Shirt by Cacharel, dress by Amen, top by Zeynep Tosun, shoes by Robert Clergerie.

Top by Nike, skirt by Danielle Romaril, socks shoes by Chanel

Left to right: Sofia: Dress by Viktor & Rolf, top by beyond Retro, shoes by Neil Barrett, socks stylists own. Klaudyna: Trousers and jacket by Givenchy, top by Beyond Retro, shoes by Alexander McQueen. Inga: Sleeveless blazer by Alexander McQueen, top by M Missoni, stripe Thigh-High socks by American Apparel, shoes by Marni. Madi: Longsleeve tshirt by Nike, top by Babajaon, skirt and shoes by Marni

Top by Beyond Retro, dress by Viktor & Rolf

From left to right: Inga:Inner top by Viktor & Rolf, top by Chanel. Madi:Top by Nike, skirt by Danielle Romeril. Klaudyna:Jacket by Marni, tshirt by Toast, undies by Francesca Marotta, socks shoes by Chanel. Sofia:Inner top by Nike, top by Vionnet, skirt by Sandro, shoes by & Other Stories

Jacket by Marni, tshirt by Toast, undies by Francesca Marotta

From right to left: Madi: Shirt by Halston Heritage, dress by Monki. Sofia: dress by Christopher Ræburn, jacket by & Other Stories. Inga: Longsleeve tshirt by UNIQLO, top by Calvin Klein jeans, skirt by Beyond Retro. Klaudyna: Top by MM6, trousers by Charles Anastase.

All images shot on Leica S System

Photographer: Henry Gorse

Stylist: Patricia Villirillo

Hair: April Taylor

Make up:Sylvia Makowski

Retoucher: Éamonn Patrick Frighill

Photography Assistants:Giorgio Lattanzi, Jamie Phelps, Naomi Blair Gould

Stylist Assistants: Roberta Pinna, Fabiola Murueta Aldrete, Viola Galassi

Hair Assistant: Jess de Voeght

MUA Assistant: Sasha O’Neill

Iguana Handler: Trevor

Models: Klaudyna (IMG), Inga (Storm), Sofia (Models1), Madi (Premier)

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Finding the perfect pair of sunglasses this summer can be difficult, which is why we’ve searched through the SS12 collections to bring you our favourites. While trying to satisfy our obsession we couldn’t ignore some of the most famous sunnies of all time- which only prove that choosing your pair is a very important decision!

Words: Francesca Prudente

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Boyish British actor Ben Barnes, star of Killing Bono, was shot for Wonderland by world-renowned photographer Rankin, founder of Dazed & Confused magazine, whose storied lens has captured everyone from Kate Moss to Damien Hirst to David Bowie.

Styled by Way Perry, Wonderland‘s men’s fashion editor, combining Ralph Lauren, Viktor & Rolf and a straitjacket from Angels, Barnes is shown here in poses and attitudes, markedly different from those of his floppy-haired, heart-throb role in The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian.

See the full Wonderland feature, in which Barnes talks of his stab at pop stardom and shattering his sweetheart typecast here.

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WONDERLAND: Your latest menswear collection features a Geek meets Jock look. But you are the most un-Jock-like men…

ROLF: [Laughs] Yes, but that’s why it works. To have two clichés clash together creates a tension.

WONDERLAND: The new collection made me think of an American tourist in Hawaii in the 50s.

ROLF: [Laughs] For us it started with the fact that Barack Obama was born in Hawaii. We just felt the need to go back to this positive time. American-inspired, but from an era when we still all believed in it.

WONDERLAND: So how do you feel now he is President elect?

ROLF: Incredibly happy. Happy and relieved.

WONDERLAND: Do you have a different approach when you design for men and women?

ROLF: They are both about something bigger than clothes but the menswear is more practical and less linked to a show.

WONDERLAND: And there is an autobiographical element to your menswear…

ROLF: Absolutely. When we launched the collection we did a show with just the two of us. It’s the clothes we want to wear; so it’s rooted in something classical twisted with something more ironic.

WONDERLAND: How do you want to be perceived: as fashion designers or conceptual artists?

ROLF: As fashion artists! We started by doing things that were about fashion but not necessarily about clothes. With the dolls’ house [at The Barbican retrospective] and some future projects we are going back into more art installations but it’s difficult to say what’s art and what’s fashion.

WONDERLAND: Your fashion shows are always thought-provoking…

ROLF: We regard our real work as the show. The shows are the performance and the clothes are the actors. A show is a way to tell a story and is so much more than just presenting the clothes for the season. A show is the reason why we went into fashion; it’s the way you can present your dreams.

WONDERLAND: What drew you to each other when you were studying at Arnhem Academy?

ROLF: First of all our shared vision of fashion and our shared taste and I think we also had the same level of ambition. We both wanted to become a fashion label. When we work together there is this extra strength that we don’t have separately. There was never a question to work alone…

WONDERLAND: Your first collections were very conceptual.

ROLF: Even though for the first five years we didn’t get so much attention, we always say that these years were the most important in our career because we could experiment and find ourselves.

WONDERLAND: The fashion industry has an obsession with new, new, new. Is it difficult for young designers to get attention so quickly?

ROLF: Absolutely. In our case that would have been devastating. It takes time to find your own voice.

WONDERLAND: And being able to make mistakes…

ROLF: Our mistakes have been our biggest lessons.

WONDERLAND: How does reality live up to the mini-world of Viktor & Rolf? You haven’t done badly have you?

ROLF: [Laughs] Have you heard of The Secret? It’s this book that is an absolute hype right now. The secret in The Secret is just visualising your dreams. When Viktor and I read that book we thought, ‘That’s exactly what we did!’.

WONDERLAND: You enjoy collaborating with musicians and actors. Why?

ROLF: We are never so interested in celebrities – the nicest thing is to be able to work together with someone you admire, like Rufus Wainwright or Tilda Swinton, to create something new. It’s beneficial for our growth.

WONDERLAND: Swinton’s career mirrors your own – the way she mixes art-house and big bucks mainstream blockbusters.

ROLF: By doing both you create a very rich world in which everything is possible: you don’t want to choose. She knows how to reach a big public.

WONDERLAND: And it stops it from being elitist.

ROLF: Yeah, but if you want to be elitist you can be as well…

WONDERLAND: Did you enjoy seeing your work in an art gallery situation at The Barbican?

ROLF: Absolutely. You know fashion is so much what you said, about newness, and it goes so fast. This season’s ideas are thrown away next season… What is enjoyable when you see all your work together like that, is that you see you have a body of work that you can cherish. We are romantic because we always want to hold on to what we are doing, in that sense we are almost anti-fashion. In our collections we often work with the idea of trying to hold onto things instead of going too fast, like when we dipped everything in silver, it was a wish to freeze a moment.

WONDERLAND: Why specifically dolls and a dolls’ house?

ROLF: You can easily control dolls. They do whatever you want! Recreating the work in a different scale makes people look at it differently, and that’s what we try to do, to look at the world we all know from a different angle. We almost preferred the dolls to the clothes in real life.

WONDERLAND: In your S/S 2009 virtual show with Shalom Harlow you appear like puppet masters looming over the set.

ROLF: Yes, that was the idea.

WONDERLAND: Do you enjoy being in control?

ROLF: [Laughs] Yes, it’s very important for us.

WONDERLAND: Another recurring theme in your shows is dance –

ROLF: It’s very strange because we never dance ourselves. I think it’s about trying to escape the rigid form of a fashion show where models are walking like robots on a catwalk.

WONDERLAND: Which designers do you admire?

ROLF: We admire designers who really have their own style whether it’s very artistic or not, from Margiela to Yves Saint Laurent. In the end that is what lasts. You can lose yourself in trends but its important to really keep it close to yourself.

WONDERLAND: How do you work together as a duo?

ROLF: We do everything together. Every business decision, every idea. That is why we play with our image, the same glasses and the same clothes: to show that we act as one designer; we feel as one designer.

WONDERLAND: Do you never disagree?

ROLF: We don’t always agree but we never fight. We just talk until we find consensus and when we both have a different opinion it means the idea is not yet polished, or finished.

WONDERLAND: Will Viktor & Rolf always work in the fashion arena?

ROLF: Yes, but maybe not exclusively in the fashion arena. But fashion is, let’s say, the love of our lives.

WONDERLAND: Where is Viktor today?

ROLF: He is making sketches. That’s the good thing about being two people.

Photographer: Tom Allen
Fashion: Way Perry
Words: Iain R. Webb

A full version of this article first appeared in Wonderland #16, Dec/Jan 2008/09

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