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You can now satiate all your Nicopanda needs online. Warning: you might get click happy and fill that electronic shopping basket and empty your bank account. We’ve got a dangerously long shopping list saved in the form of bookmarked pages. To celebrate the news, Mr Formichetti’s made an emoji filled video explaining the launch, his influences and the SS16 collection.

“We are thrilled to bring our edit of this collection to our global community, offering a seamless, uncluttered presentation inspired by and designed with Nicopanda attitude. Nicola Formichetti is well known for his love of online technology and social media and our online store complements and reinforces this philosophy,” said Kevin Kollenda, CEO of Nicopanda.

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Breaking Boundaries

Nicola Formichetti went for a theme of contrast when approaching Nicopanda’s Spring/Summer 16 collection. The presentation at New York Fashion Week depicted sullen youths of all nationalities poised in a setting of grandeur – manor house style. The genderless, heavily mixed media collection toyed with the graceful aura of a ballerina versus the rampant rebellious nature of punks. We expected no less, since Formichetti was the mind of madness behind Gaga’s meat dress in 2010. Formichetti collaborated with artists Sam Rolfe and Brendan Smith to achieve the digitalised rose print designs and hand painted latex nylon designs respectively. Italian designer Metaldienchi’s influence helped create the line’s ballet inspired footwear.

Opposites Attract

The line focused heavily on black with pink, but nudes and light chambray blues crept in there too. This means that the soft tulle ruffles of the collection were completely thrown off with black vinyl and mesh, making what would ultimately be an incredibly feminine line daring and innovative: the pale pink, nightwear-inspired, Victorian style gown worn with  the full works of saucy black underwear underneath (suspenders included). A black vinyl ‘bin bag’ jacket was made surprisingly feminine with an A line skirt, a cinched waist a bow detail at the back. The rawest feminine piece of draped pink chiffon and tulle, a neo-Victorian ruffled gown, was completely gothicised with black shoes and black lipstick to great effect. Male models wore hard black jackets with pink layered tulle underneath, and white mesh t- shirts were added to with pearl applique details. Wonderland’s gender bending favourite: a nude satin bomber perfect for both.

Early noughties influence

The inevitable noughties resurge is looming with its ‘vintage’ tag being applicable by 2020, and Nicopanda’s line saw traces of its silhouettes and style favourites: a real presence of vinyl (especially the panels on denim), exceptionally wide flares paired with asymmetrical styles and ruffles, classic denim jacket style, co-ords and futuristic footwear and even noughties teens favourite – the string trouser!

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Feted stylist, Director at Diesel, Fashion Director at Vogue Homme Japan – Nicola Formichetti has many strings to his particularly well-crafted bow. Exercising his insatiable appetite for all things kitsch and Kawaii, the Tokyo-native started Nicopanda – his colourific solo fashion line – as a childhood hobby. Launching his ready-to-wear debut with an off-beat 32 piece collection this season – a quirky blend of raw-edge ruffled denim, pearl laced hats, Harajuku-inspired sportswear and oversized baby grows – it rivals Hello Kitty for hyperreal fab-factor. Here, Formichetti explains it all.

Wonderland: Hi Nicola. Where, when and why did Nicopanda start?

Nicola Formichetti: Nicopanda is my nickname. It started when I was younger and it stuck. My friends used to say I looked like a panda!

W: Was Nicopanda always going to become a ready-to-wear line?

N: I always wanted Nicopanda to be a fun brand. I’m starting with ready-to-wear, but Hello Kitty needs to watch out.

W: Fighting talk! What made you decide to release a full collection?

N: There was a big demand from my fans, so I decided to do it properly as Nicopanda only existed online, mainly on Tumblr. We had made a few graphic t-shirts, rings and crazy novelty items but it was nothing serious, it was purely for fun.

W: Your designs are unisex, right? Do you think gender lines in fashion are being blurred?

N: I like showing a strong vision to represent all sexes. I love to think that in the world of Nicopanda we are all individuals, but with the same sex.

W: Do you see any similarities between Diesel and Nicopanda?

N: They are very different. Diesel is such a global iconic brand with an authentic history, Nicopanda is my Japanese side – it’s fun, a real mix of me. It’s all my history rolled into one.

W: So aside from Asia, where do you look for inspiration?

N: Instagram!

W: Is that how you research trends?

N: I’m always interested in what’s happening in the world. On the street, in fashion, you just need to open your eyes and observe.

W: What do you think it is that makes Asian fashion so unique?

N: People aren’t scared to look different, so kids take risks.

W: Who would you like to see wearing Nicopanda?

N: COLOUR-CODE!

W: Of course! You’ve even got a Nicopanda tattoo…

N: I’m stuck with it, so I need to make this huge!

All clothing by NICOPANDA SS15

Photographer: Matt Irwin.

Fashion Editor: Anna Trevelyan.

Words: Brooke McCord.

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