Nicola Formichetti brought gender-neutral punk ballerina for SS16.
Nicola Formichetti went for a theme of contrast when approaching Nicopanda’s Spring/Summer 16 collection. The presentation at New York Fashion Week depicted sullen youths of all nationalities poised in a setting of grandeur – manor house style. The genderless, heavily mixed media collection toyed with the graceful aura of a ballerina versus the rampant rebellious nature of punks. We expected no less, since Formichetti was the mind of madness behind Gaga’s meat dress in 2010. Formichetti collaborated with artists Sam Rolfe and Brendan Smith to achieve the digitalised rose print designs and hand painted latex nylon designs respectively. Italian designer Metaldienchi’s influence helped create the line’s ballet inspired footwear.
The line focused heavily on black with pink, but nudes and light chambray blues crept in there too. This means that the soft tulle ruffles of the collection were completely thrown off with black vinyl and mesh, making what would ultimately be an incredibly feminine line daring and innovative: the pale pink, nightwear-inspired, Victorian style gown worn with the full works of saucy black underwear underneath (suspenders included). A black vinyl ‘bin bag’ jacket was made surprisingly feminine with an A line skirt, a cinched waist a bow detail at the back. The rawest feminine piece of draped pink chiffon and tulle, a neo-Victorian ruffled gown, was completely gothicised with black shoes and black lipstick to great effect. Male models wore hard black jackets with pink layered tulle underneath, and white mesh t- shirts were added to with pearl applique details. Wonderland’s gender bending favourite: a nude satin bomber perfect for both.
Early noughties influence
The inevitable noughties resurge is looming with its ‘vintage’ tag being applicable by 2020, and Nicopanda’s line saw traces of its silhouettes and style favourites: a real presence of vinyl (especially the panels on denim), exceptionally wide flares paired with asymmetrical styles and ruffles, classic denim jacket style, co-ords and futuristic footwear and even noughties teens favourite – the string trouser!