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Black nylon bomber jacket with faux fur hood by APLHA INDUSTRIES, black and grey printed silk dress with leather detailed collar by SAINT LAURENT by HEIDI SLIMANE, white cotton shirt by RAF SIMONS, black and yellow cotton printed socks and black, grey and blue snakeskin boots by MIU MIU (worn throughout)

Taken from the Summer issue of Wonderland.

Black and grey cotton coat with collar by PAUL SMITH and white cotton printed t-shirt by MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

Pink wool ribbed knit sleeveless jumper by RIVER ISLAND , gold, bronze, and silver lurex knit long sleeved top by MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF ARCHIVE, blue and white wool jacquard sleeveless jumper by DIOR and black leather skirt with lace details by DIESEL

White, green and pink silk blend dress with collar and belt detail, black and yellow cotton printed socks all by MIU MIU

Black and grey cotton coat with collar by PAUL SMITH, white cotton printed t-shirt by MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF, black wool knit zip up top by McQ, moss green wool knit fingerless gloves by MARNI and blue cotton denim jeans by FENDI

Black cotton dress with sequinned detail collar and under skirt by CHRISTIAN DIOR and navy cotton tights by FALKE at MYTIGHTS and socks by MIU MIU

Photographer: Charlotte Hadden

Fashion Editor: Warren Leech

Make Up: Danielle Kahlani at The Book Agency using CHANEL

Hair: Nicole Kahlani at The Book Agency using KIEHL’s

Model: Kiki W at IMG

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Having made an announcement that they will not show their AW15 collection at London Fashion Week this coming February, the future of design duo Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff’s influential brand Meadham Kirchhoff is somewhat uncertain. “The way the industry works, you’re driven to do all these grandiose shows, all these things that are incredibly expensive and then one day, the sponsorship runs out. You’re on your own,” Kirchhoff told Style.com.

Despite much previous support of the duo from the British fashion industry, Meadham Kirchhoff expressed their uncertainty on keeping up with such a fast paced industry – a feat faces by many a designer. Having served a mash up of anarchy with their SS15 ‘Reject Everything’ collection in which robotic bodysuits, acid hued outerwear, vest tops proclaiming ‘Batty Boy’, pastel graffitied tops, torn and spliced skirts, underwear as overwear, body armour style plastic, flesh exposing mesh and bold pink boots stomp down the runway to the sounds of Manson and The Slits – to say we are disappointed by this news is an understatement. SS15 was more than just a fashion show, it was a multi-faceted message to society, a protest against an increasingly homophobic world – it was typically London, the duos trademark move.

Will they show a SS15 collection just not at London Fashion Week, or could this be the end of our love affair with Meadham Kirchhoff? Time will tell,

Photography: Sharna Osborne.

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Tralala

In a room overly scented by the smell of Tralala – the product of Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff’s AW14 collaboration with perfumery Penhaligon’s – the dynamic duo brought London fashion realness back to the capital, referencing feminism, homophobia, misogyny and gender diversity and the subcultures we live in for their unforgettable SS15 show.

Reject Everything

‘Reject Everything’ served a mash up of anarchy – marigold’s were made chic, accessories were avant-garde and hair was electrified, braided, bunched and dyed. We saw robotic bodysuits, acid hued outerwear, vest tops proclaiming ‘Batty Boy’, pastel graffitied tops, torn and spliced skirts, underwear as overwear, body armour style plastic, flesh exposing mesh and bold pink boots stomp down the runway to the sounds of Manson and The Slits, protesting against an increasingly homophobic world. This was Edward and Benjamin’s statement, their perception of beauty, their message to society, their tribute to Westwood, their blend of punk.

Typical model looks not required

Meadham Kirchhoff’s open casting call resulted in an eclectic gang of models, celebrating diversity and gender equality on the catwalk. Despite most of them having never set foot on a catwalk, they did a damn good job. This was more than just a fashion show, it was a multi-faceted message to society. It’s what London is all about.

Photography: Sharna Osborne.

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From the time between the Fashion East show and the Meadham Kirchoff show the Tate’s Turbine Hall was completely transformed from contemporary minimalist utopia to all out extravagance with gold tinsel curtains, giant hearts and a giant mock box of their first perfume for Penhaligon’s ‘Tralala’. Speaking of ‘Tralala’, they also managed to fragrance the entire Turbine Hall with the scent, if all else fails the pair can always be sure to have the best smelling show of the week. But it never does fail.

For AW14, Meadham Kirchoff become much more accessible, not to say it was safe or boring but pretty much every piece that came down the eccentric runway was wearable. The show started with a lilac tweed two piece suit, very Chanel-esque, starting safe the collection wained more towards classic Meadham style as it progressed with layers upon layers of frothy lace and velvet dresses. Styled with 70’s rainbow platform boots, veils and opaque tights to add a Meadham twist to the otherwise wearable collection. Never fear the hyper-girlishness thats oh so Meadham was all still very much present.

“We wanted an ease about it — not stuff on stuff on stuff — you still have the layering and the Linton tweeds and the sugary pastels, all of our handwriting, but we wanted it to be about a sense of security. This is simply about the woman and how it feels to wear our clothes,” said Kirchhoff. “[But] unfortunately I’m not a woman, so I’ll never know!” stated the design duo when talking of the collection.
We’ll have to wait and see if Meadham continue their new found accessibility in to SS15 but meanwhile we’ll be fighting to get our hands on one of those metallic python jackets.

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For their last nine seasons Meadham Kirchhoff’s shows have been scented by Penhaligon’s, so it seems obvious that the duo have finally decided to collaborate with the esteemed perfumer.
‘Tralala’ was created by Master Perfumer Bertrand Ducaufour, who spent time with Meadham Kirchhoff in their East London studio to truly capture the essence of Penhaligon’s muses.
A blend of saffron, whiskey, green violet and ylang ylang layered over supple leather and dusted off with the powdery note of helitrope, ‘Tralala’ is described as a ‘beguiling and addictive piece of counter culture couture’.

‘Tralala’ launches exclusively at Harvey Nichols on the 21st of April and in the UK and Penhaligon’s boutiques and online on the 5th of May.

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Gold Louis shoes, leather skullcaps, boxed leather jackets and the Edwardian nude and sheer black gowns melded Gothic romanticism and S&M eroticism, made even more apparent by the monochrome palate. Think Jane Eyre as a red-light district brothel madam. Heavy fabrics like leather dominated traditional feminine silhouettes.

But while in the first look its shiny patches hardened a sailor-white jacket, in another, the feathered leather neckline on a white dress added a romantic quality. We were mesmerized by the circular evolution from childish sailor cuts to sensual, womanly forms, and finally back to virginal white. Devoted to beauty in its strangest and most exquisite forms, Meadham Kirchhoff transcended themselves this season.

Words: Elise Marraro (follow Elise on Twitter: PardonMe_Lissie)

Images: Harry Carr

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“The pureness of Renaissance paintings,” Pescis said, when asked about the show’s inspirations. “A lot of cherubs and pictures of little cute girls. We wanted the girls to be more pretty, not just crazy.” The LFW veteran (who’d done two shows that day already) was using Fudge Matte Hed Gas to spray wax into the girls’ hair before tonging it into tight curls and stitching the buoffant right along the scalp.

“Every season with Meadham Kirchhoff is a pretty big ordeal with hair and make-up,” he told Wonderland. “We talk one, two months in advance. They bring an idea to me, we let it grow and it’s a really great thing. They would laugh at me if they heard me say that – they’re always like, “I HATE THIS” – but they’re actually really positive and cool.” Check out our backstage images for more positive vibes.

Check out our other backstage posts from LFW:

Day One: Felder Felder, PPQ and KTZ
Day Two: Moschino, Jasper Conran and Kinder Aggugini
Day Three: Philip Treacy – Special Report
Day Three and Four: Christopher Raeburn, J.W. Anderson and Pringle of Scotland
Day Five: Aminika Wilmont, Fashion Fringe and Nasir Mazhar

Words: Zing Tsjeng
Images: Mark Rabadan

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