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Teddy Bear Furs

Opening the show in the Fondation Louis Vuitton with some killer oversized cream and black teddy bear fur outerwear that’s engulfed its wearer, lavish decadence – with some elevated daywear staples – was on the agenda for Nicolas Ghesquiere’s AW15 Louis Vuitton collection. Think boxy tailored suits worn with LV logo t-shirts, technicolor metallic jacquard dresses and jackets, glittering silver chainmail type knitwear, thick wool-loop coats, supple red leather trousers and a series of leopard print in mustard and red mohair (encrusted with crystals) and thick fur.

Box Bag Beauty

Models walked through each dome of the Fondation Louis Vuitton carrying an array of oversized metal box bags. Smaller than a trunk but far bigger than your average day bag, they came in bronze with brass hardware and black initials, Veuve Cliquot yellow (with enough room to stow a bottle), black leather with LV monogramming and mirrored silver with black leather detail.

Silk Seduction

Whilst white silk came with lace in the shape of form fitting tops with oversized shoulders that nodded to the 80s, black silk looked half bedroom, half vamp – a desirable look no doubt. Meanwhile a cornflower blue silk dress came with sleeves, worn tight and fitted. Aside from silk seduction, we went weak at the knees for the slashed knitwear. Rib knit in orange and washed-out navy, each jumper was slashed at the chest – skin peeping through – then complete with bell sleeves.

Words: Brooke McCord

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We were kept waiting until the very last day of Paris Fashion Week to finally catch a glimpse of Nicholas Ghesquiere’s new look Louis Vuitton womenswear. It was an anxious debut, with big shoes to fill (Marc was at the helm for 16 years) but Ghesquiere knows his stuff and it seems we had nothing to be worried about. The show was stripped back, where Marc would complement his shows with massive theatrical sets, Ghesquiere took it back to the matter at hand; the clothes. Inevitably, the new Louis Vuitton is different but what did you expect? The collection focused on familiar wardrobe pieces, pieces we wear time and time again, but was also peppered with original designs.

As always with Vuitton, the collection strongly features a host of luxurious textiles. From leather coats, leather and tweed dresses, and shiny patent drainpipe trousers. The collection was about contrasts, as Louis Vuitton is, glorious smooth, full-grain leather is contrasted with hybrid materials. Bold, bright colours are juxtaposed with muted halftones. Hand-crafted artisanal techniques are updated with a high-tech twist, known so well of Ghesquiere and nodding towards some of his past work at Balenciaga.

The collection tells a tale of expertise made possible by innovative techniques. Ghesquiere has created a timeless yet contemporary collection that will no doubt be a massive success when it hits stores later this year. Juergen Teller shot some of the looks at Louis Vuitton headquarters in Paris.

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