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Gareth Pugh SS16

Were you one of the lucky few to peer into conversations between the likes of Kim Jones and Lou Stoppard and Nicola Formichetti and Jo Ann Furniss at London Men’s Week? No? Well you can sit amongst some of fashion’s most revered once again this season, thanks to the British Fashion Council and American Express.

With talks open to the public every day of fashion week, there’s no excuse not to brush up on your fashion knowledge, directly from some of the industry’s best.

You could find yourself eavesdropping on pearls of wisdom from the likes of king of the dark and dramatic, designer Gareth Pugh, Rick Owens’ wife and muse, Michele Lamy and Lou Stoppard will be back to talk fashion photography with Sølve Sundsbø. The inimitable Terry Jones will sit down with Dylan Jones, stylist to just about everyone Anna Trevelyan is chatting with Stavros Karelis and Fabio Piras will be making an appearance.

Tickets are available now.

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So now you’re back

Brewer Street car park was buzzing with anticipation for Gareth Pugh’s return. The pop provocateur has been showing in Paris since 2008 honing the skills he was first taught at CSM, as he told Reba Maybury in our 10th birthday issue: “I think what Paris gave the work was that level of finish, of polish – not only in the work, but in the show itself, because we did some pretty ramshackle things in London. It’s sometimes fun to cobble things together and for it to look perfect. It’s a little bit like that analogy of a swan looking very pristine and elegant, but with the little feet flapping underneath the water which no-one ever sees. That all used to go on behind-the-scenes, but I think what we tried to present in London was always the essence of what you worked towards. Paris just helped refine that presentation skill.” Refined it was with every piece finished to perfection, no loose ends, no unravelling hems, but the ramshackle London element was still there. The show was delayed by half an hour, most of the front row didn’t arrive until seconds before and a model stepped out onto the runway moments too early to be met with 20 screams to scurry back inside. We just gave Pugh the welcome home he would have expected.

Spend a penny

The most obvious motif was the currency. Pennies lined the runway floor while every model surely prayed they wouldn’t skid on any in their skyscraper heels. Copper coins adorned dresses, corsets and shorts in what could be interpreted as a tongue-in-cheek joke. A rough estimation calculated that if you scraped up every coin from the floor, you might just be able to afford a full look. Dress, shoes, latex legwear, glasses and jacket totting up to £5k, surely minimum? That’s before you add on the value of coins stitched on, by the end of the show the last model was swaying from side to side with the weight of her outfit. You’d need a lot of those little plastic moneybags to take to the post office.

Run away with the circus

A nod to the vibrant characters of (sadly dying) Soho where the show was held, the clothes themselves were dramatically sexy but the styling of the models was an antidote, saving Pugh from slipping into the fashion week schedule as just another name. Painfully tight latex covered legs and faces were shielded by mesh with painted on makeup. Hair was replaced by electrocuted wigs and multi-tonal eyewear completed the vision. It was clownlike in appearance, loud, confusing, colourful but ultimately feminine, Pugh reminded us all why Soho’s sudden demise is all the more heartbreaking in just ten minutes.

Words: Lily Walker

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Anton Corbijn’s golden boy Dane DeHaan plays James Dean in biopic Life. Discussing his idol and his work to date, the one time Prada face bares all in our cover feature for our 10th birthday issue.

Inside we rewind to 2005 with a Prada retrospective and delve into Gareth Pugh’s hallowed archives. We hand pick the best of the next, selecting the fastest-risers of the year, putting them through their paces, grilling every up-and-comer you should know about in 2015. Finally, we’ve catalogued the names of now, shot only by talents as great, with 10 cover stars spanning music, film and fashion.

Photographer: Matt Lambert

Fashion: Andrew Davis

Grooming: Servullo

A Decade of Wonderland.

Selena Gomez by Petra Collins

FKA twigs by Matthew Stone

Dane DeHaan

Ten years of Prada

Gaspar Noé’s Love

Eliot Sumner

Zoë Kravitz

Emma Roberts

Hailee Steinfeld

Gareth Pugh

Bella Hadid

Lucky Blue

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Lucky Blue wears DSQUARED2

Peroxide blonde pin-up Lucky Blue Smith is the next candidate in our cover star reveal. The teenager has taken the fashion world by storm fronting fashion weeks left right and centre and with super-spreads in every iconic fashion title.

Inside we rewind to 2005 with a Prada retrospective and delve into Gareth Pugh’s hallowed archives. We hand pick the best of the next, selecting the fastest-risers of the year, putting them through their paces, grilling every up-and-comer you should know about in 2015. Finally, we’ve catalogued the names of now, shot only by talents as great, with 10 cover stars spanning music, film and fashion.

Photographer: Christian Oita

Fashion: Matthew Josephs

Makeup: Thom Walker

Hair: Kota Suizu

Fashion Assistant: Toni-Blaze and Kathryn McKerrall

Photographer’s Assistant: Dan Douglass

A Decade of Wonderland.

Selena Gomez by Petra Collins

FKA twigs by Matthew Stone

Dane DeHaan

Ten years of Prada

Gaspar Noé’s Love

Eliot Sumner

Zoë Kravitz

Emma Roberts

Hailee Steinfeld

Gareth Pugh

Bella Hadid

Lucky Blue

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FKA twigs wears GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE BY RICCARDO TISCI

You saw our big reveal of Selena Gomez last night, right? Next up on the roster we’ve got FKA twigs, the voguing whirlwind who’s made creativity cool again. Our bumper 10 year edition is over 400 pages of shoots and stories. Interviewed and shot by the inimitable Matthew Stone, twigs talks us through M3LL155X, her weirdest and most wonderful work yet.

Inside we rewind to 2005 with a Prada retrospective and delve into Gareth Pugh’s hallowed archives. We hand pick the best of the next, selecting the fastest-risers of the year, putting them through their paces, grilling every up-and-comer you should know about in 2015. Finally, we’ve catalogued the names of now, shot only by talents as great, with 10 cover stars spanning music, film and fashion.

Photographer: Matthew Stone

Fashion: Matthew Josephs

Makeup: Daniel Sallstrom using M.A.C Cosmetics

Hair: Jawara at Coffin Inc. using Bumble & Bumble

Fashion Assistant: Toni-Blaze

Photographer’s Assistant: Sam Nixon

Set Design: Alun Davies

A Decade of Wonderland.

Selena Gomez by Petra Collins

FKA twigs by Matthew Stone

Dane DeHaan

Ten years of Prada

Gaspar Noé’s Love

Eliot Sumner

Zoë Kravitz

Emma Roberts

Hailee Steinfeld

Gareth Pugh

Bella Hadid

Lucky Blue

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