Black and Gold

With a solid reputation as one of the most avant-garde designers on the London circuit, Gareth Pugh gave us a sculptural feast of shapes for SS17. Models stomped to aggressive drumbeats in chunky platform boots, and the palette ranged from powerful black embellished in gold bullion to a regal purple.

Night at the Opera

Tonight’s show follows the opening night of Eliogabalo, Francesco Cavalli’s 1667 opera for which Pugh has created over sixty costumes. The story follows a child emperor in imperial Rome, and the subtext of imperialism and power was evident in this collection. Opening with a black sun, the collection had its roots in mythology and performance, and was subtly theatrical in a way that only Pugh can master.

Op-Art

Pugh used graphic optical art to evoke beams of light, an ode to the sun bringing a pagan, of the earth quality to some of the less rigid garments. I hesitate to use the word “tribal” as it always sounds so flimsy, but there was definitely something in the magnificent headpieces and Matthew Stone’s slightly uncomfortable score which felt as if it belonged somewhere “other”, some unfamiliar yet intriguing territory which for a brief few minutes we as the audience were privy to. Maybe this place is Pugh’s imagination. I long to go there.