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Amid all the bespoke Italian tailoring, sockless loafers, excellent guest designers in the form of Junn.J and White Mountanering x adidas Originals, and the hundreds of displays and booths, Pitti Uomo was also home this year to the prestigious International Woolmark Prize event. The competition, coordinated, unsurprisingly, by Australian wool giants Woolmark, works with the most important global fashion bodies to seek out designers utilizing and ceaselessly innovating with Merino wool throughout their collections and pieces. Beginning with regional awards held across six areas of the world, the IWP then whittles things down to six menswear and six womenswear designers who eventually compete at a fashion calendar highlight like Pitti. Last year, as you’ll probably remember, it was NY-based super duo Public School who scooped the gong.

This time around, a whole host of talented names (some familiar, other less well known) made it through to the final, including Siki Im, whose dark, experimental menswear has won him many fans in the US and here, and our very own Agi & Sam – who have, of course, been making waves in London with their punchy, fresh designs for a while now. Still, despite strong entries from those buzzed labels, it was India’s SUKETDHIR who unanimously wowed the judges with his romantic collection and technical abilities.

The panel, which reads like a who’s-who of fashion’s biggest players (think Suzy Menkes, Imran Amed and Haider Ackermann), were deeply impressed by Dhir’s work for IWP: fusing classic Western tailoring with the oversized proportions, hand-dying techniques, and lightweight fabrications of his homeland, Dhir was praised by Menkes for locating the kind of “emotion” and “heartbeat” that she seeks in fashion – high praise indeed from the infamously discerning critic. Ackermann, meanwhile, explained that, “Suket is a person with a dream to tell, and I thought that it was very beautiful…And technically, he showed us details I’ve never seen before, and that’s very impressive.”

Dhir will receive AUS$ 100,000 and industry mentor support thanks to the competition, something he was understandably pretty pleased about, remarking, “this is certainly very overwhelming, and everything that I needed right now. I’ve done what I could in India, and this is the best thing that could happen to me for me to move in a bigger way. I think I’m ready for the world, and I also think the world is ready for me and for this kind of aesthetic. The look is easy and happy, and the world needs that right now.” A big year for Pitti, and an even better one for Dhir.

SUKETDHIR’s IWP collection

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Harvey Nichols launched two exclusive collections recently from the prestigious 2014/15 International Woolmark Prize winners Public School and M. Patmos. The competition, judged by Victoria Beckham, iconic designer Paul Smith, and esteemed fashion critic Tim Blanks among others, gives winners financial sponsorship and the opportunity to design a wool-based collection to be stocked in world-class retailer Harvey Nichols.

Maxwell Osbourne and Dao-Yi Chow, the two New Yorkers behind super-hyped purveyors of downtown cool, Public School, took home the menswear prize – creating a collection which characteristically blends streetwear and sportswear to create pieces with a dark, futuristic note. Marcia Patmos’s eponymous brand, meanwhile, won the womenswear prize and created a travel-wardrobe collection that was chic but functional, making clothes that were full of unexpected and thoughtful details.

Wonderland sat down for a transatlantic chat with the winners to find out a little more about the collections they created.

How did it feel to win the prize?

PS: It feels great. We think that was a really big achievement of ours.

MP: Oh it feels amazing, super exciting.

Do you design with a particular person in mind?

PS: For men we design with ourselves in mind. For women she’s an extension of ourselves.

MP: Yeah you know I always have a certain woman in mind. But for the project I thought it was good to have something a little more focused, with a little story behind it. So it was a woman who was an architect and she was going on site visits throughout the world to maybe five or six different cities or different climates. She was going to be having to go to all kinds of work and social events, and I wanted her to be able to just feel great out of one suitcase. So the whole collection is in one suitcase, and all these mutual pieces that just mix and match together and a whole of them turn inside out which makes them even more versatile.

Do you feel you have an aesthetic that’s especially close to home?

PS: If you’re referring to NY then yes. We derive our inspiration from the people on the street. You walk the line of making it or failing every single second. It keeps you on the edge.

MP: *Laughs* I think so. Yeah.

You’re getting into some iconic international stores now – do you think about commercial viability when designing?

PS: Of course you have to think about how to push the boundaries consistently but at the same delivering something that people can wear and want to wear. It’s a delicate balance.

MP: I do, yes, of course. Even though this collection was kind a conceptual in that way they’re definitely pieces that could be part of my normal collection and could always be worn all the time.

Where did you begin to create your collection for Woolmark? What’s your creative process like can you talk to us a bit about that?

PS: We created a fictitious story about a lost civilization that depended on merino wool to survive. We designed a wardrobe for them that highlighted all the technical benefits of merino including moisture wicking and heat insulation and built a collection that would get them through all seasons.

MP: In my normal life, not just the Woolmark collection-life, all seasons are always overlapping and you’re always working on five different seasons at the same time, you’re always in production with one about to show another or just starting another so there’s never a clean finish of it in a way: especially because I have my own line that runs along with things from one season to the next. There’s usually a little bit of inspiration or something new or a colour palate that inspires each one. I definitely start to look at patterns ideas and I guess there are a few things that always happen at the same time. We start sketching and it’s a combination of the fabrics and deciding which things go with which and sometimes we look back at the things that we started that didn’t find their right home that we could resurrect or tweak or whatever.

What was your favourite part of making the collection and did you encounter any problems with it?

PS: Out favourite part was the development piece. Since we only had wool to work with we had to get creative in terms of finding new things to do with the wool, like boiling it, mixing different yarns together and needle punching. These were all new techniques for us. That was also the hardest part, testing everything and making sure it would withstand wear and tear as well as be production friendly.

MP: We didn’t have terrible problems but we had one or two because the collection is produced for such a small number of stores so there can be minimum order issues with certain things – we just had to deal with that a little bit. And some of the thing we used were very specialised so we had to do a lot of research to find all of these really interesting things that I had never seen before like merino wool elastic or this tulle fabric or whatever. So some of that was a bit of an issue and we had to get a few favours done!

So what was your favourite piece from the collection and why?

PS: Our favourite pieces were the compression leggings and pullover hood with circular knit patterns. When you think about wool you think big, chunky, heavy gauge sweaters. We wanted to turn that on its head and make something tight and close to the body.

MP: I love this white coat that’s our reversible travel coat – the one with the big blanket on it. It’s completely reversible inside and out so you get two coats in one. Up close it’s particularly beautiful as it’s completely hand finished and parts of it are leather trim. Basically its really easy to wear and chic.

Words: Benji Walters

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SIBLING SS16

Slipping out of their cosy knitwear confines, SIBLING have branched out into tailoring this season with a little help from tailor, Edward Sexton. Of course this isn’t your standard navy city-job type three piece, it is SIBLING after all. Think slim cut trousers and boxy blazers fit for the original Mod era, that Edward Sexton remembers first hand.

The desire to move into suits? Apparently a longstanding one, stemming from Cozette’s own happy memories of watching Tommy Nutter fit her father for his own. We spoke to the designer about the SS16 show., her pin-ups and soundtrack.

SIBLING SS16

What made you move into tailoring this season?

We’ve actually been discussing it for sometime and did have one style of trouser for AW14 made in black bonded jersey. They were pretty low-key because we were testing the water to see whether there would be any interest from stores. There has been talk of a SIBLING suit since then but we waited until we found the ideal partner, the relationship had to be right, they had to respect our brand and us theirs. Anyway, we were chatting with Woolmark about ideas in general around Cool Wool and themes for SS16 which hinge on sportsmen and Mods and we threw this suit idea at them and they ran, I mean really ran with it. We had a meeting with Edward Sexton within days and it was like love at first sight for us: BOOM and a suit was born. Edward was a Mod so he totally ‘got’ our references but also wanted the suit to be a combination of his tailoring and our signatures. He’s worked with Stella and Phoebe at Chloe so understands collaborations well. So the suit has good Sexton shoulders, Mod fit (bum freezer jacket, ankle biter trousers) and SIBLING details such as knit laces, Swirl print lining and inside knit trims.

What has been soundtracking your time in the studio this season? 

Today the radio is winding me up as we have Absolute on and everyone is mumbling along to the songs while I’m trying to answer way way way too many emails. You’d be surprised how many interns know the words to 90s music and if they don’t Sid sure does. Joe is rolling his eyes. I’m actually laughing that I wrote this! What a misery. Oh God, “Shiny Happy People” has come on. It may kill me. Joe has suggested we go on a coffee run ‘or just run’.

Are there any particular artists that you have referenced this season?

The Swirl print idea originated from 2 places: Ukiyo-e woodblock print making and the backgrounds of artist Kehinde Whiley’s portraits. Do you know his work? It’s all over Empire now I’ve noticed.

What were your main inspirations for SS16?

Mods, sportsmen notably American football and baseball players from the 1920s, sport details such as lacing, stripes and tight forms, shoulder guards, double denims, hooded fishtail parkas – those ones with the really ratty fake fur trims especially, loafers and socks, ankles, Elton John singing Saturday Night’s (Alright For Fighting) in the 70s, Kehinde’s sports stars in classical poses.

What sort of details are in the collection?

Orange, yellow and turquoise webbing and grosgrain trims, knitted trainer-laces not in trainers, knitted raffia, colour, sparkle. The usual SIBLING stuff.

Who is the ultimate pin-up guy for SS16?

Phil Daniels in Quadrophenia having a pint with Johnny Depp in Nightmare On Elm Street, sitting on Johnny’s bed just as he gets eaten alive by it. I’m being specific because it’s Mr Depp’s outfit at THAT point.

What’s your favourite piece from the collection?

The Sexton SIBLING Mod Jock suit in navy William Healstead tonic. I’m hoping that I’m the same size as Rob Knighton as it’s made to measure. I really want to steal it!

Words: Lily Walker

Photography: Sophie Mayanne

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Holly wears black wool double breasted jacket and white cotton shirt both by Jaeger, black viscose bow tie by Asos. 

Holly wears mustard wool jacket and skirt both by Caroline Charles Grey and white patterned wool knit jumper by Jigsaw.

Holly wears navy wool shetland fairisle jumper and navy and black wool tweed skirt both by Brora, white cotton shirt by Jaeger and mustard wool tights by Caroline Charles.
Elliot wears navy wool knit jumper by Jaeger and grey wool check trouser by Austin Reed.

Holly wears black wool garland jumper by Teatum Jones.

Holly wears cobalt wool shetland fair isle cardigan by Brora and white cotton shirt as before.

Holly wears cobalt wool shetland fair isle cardigan by Brora and beige wool knitted jumper and trousers both by Christian Wijnants from Harvey Nichols and white cotton shirt as before. 

Photographer: Liam Warwick

Fashion Editor: Danielle Emerson

Video: Sharna Osborne

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It’s hard dressing for the weather. Nobody wants to hide their snazzy tee with an anorak, yet when it’s time to dust off our favourite duffel coat the heat won’t allow it. It can be stressful living in this moderate climate. Don’t fret, Savile Row Collections and Woolmark have got your back this AW14.

What are your clothes made of? Linen? Cotten? Nylon? Spandex?! Let us introduce you to “cool wool” – the only fabric you’ll be needing this season. The revered fabric is the star of the new advertising campaign, “Meet Me In Rio”. The clip is a partnership between Savile Row Collections and Woolmark: the English gentlemen is on leave during London Collections: Men to the warmer climate of Rio in search for his love. The fella is Ed Stoppard – but you don’t need his high cheekbones and debonair charm to rock these threads.

Directed by Sean Thomas, the video is a line up of London’s finest. John Lobb, Anderson & Sheppard, Richard Anderson and Budd Shirtmakers all stepped up and offered their unique spins on “cool wool” – the revolutionary fabric that keeps you cool and crisp despite your surroundings. With these guys in tow, you’re sure to look the part come rain or shine.

Words: Christopher Maul

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Sibling’s latest collection proved that they are the go to brand for knitwear, they currently represent Europe in The Woolmark Prize 2014 and its not hard to see why. The design trio sent down an array of beautiful knitted and crochet pieces, some floor length which were beautiful but also impractical so it would seem, one of the models kicked of her stilettos half way down the runway to gasps from the audience.

Blacks and whites were merged with vibrant tones of red, pink, purple and green. The floor length dresses were destroyed then re-imagined with hand crochet adding a gothic vibe. The dark denim jackets and trousers created a seventies bohemian retro feel.

The gothic mood was only heightened by the beautiful jewelled black wide brimmed hats by Bernstock Speirs, which had Coven written all over them, the two final looks screamed good witch bad witch. Sibling have definitely proved their worth as far as knitwear is concerned.

Images courtesy of Rebecca Thomas

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As fashion week is fast approaching we sent the fabulous, Princess Julia, down to some of her favourite designer’s studios to get an insight into their S/S 2014 collections. Today Julia heads over to London’s craziest knitwear brand Sister by Sibling.

Over at Sibling the knitters are busy!

Team Sibling: Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery rush around their studio pulling yarns with only 4 days to their show. The sound of their machines cut the air as another row of wool becomes a crafted garment ready for the catwalk. This collection sees Crystal Neon Matt Pearls, Cosmic Square Rings and Cosmic Triangles all made from Swarovski alongside two fabulous Woolmark Merino jumpers. Rosettes and tassles hand crafted by Laura Lees adorn jumpers, skirts and accessories to add the final flourish.

The Sibling family incorporate wool crafting with crochet and the finest stretch knits which will eventually culminate in their forthcoming spring summer collection ‘Sophisticated Boom Boom’. Love that name! Also, they remind me, it’s a Shrangrilas song and the name of Dead Or Alive’s debut album back in ’84. ‘You can’t go wrong with that’ Joe adds.

This season they are inspired by the stuffiness of 1950’s couture, the spirit and irreverence of Carolyn Cerf de Dudzeele and the pastel colours of vintage tupperware. All this laced with vibrant splashes of eye catching frills and flounces and I readily admit I’m already putting together my Sister by Sibling S/S 2014 look…Look at me I’m so ahead of the fashion fireball!

– See more at: London Fashion Week Preview – Ryan Lo 

Words by Princess Julia

Photography by Rebecca Thomas 

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