The sun’s out so naturally bums were out at Sibling SS16. In their more covered up looks, they took assistance from Edward Sexton, master tailor.
Slipping out of their cosy knitwear confines, SIBLING have branched out into tailoring this season with a little help from tailor, Edward Sexton. Of course this isn’t your standard navy city-job type three piece, it is SIBLING after all. Think slim cut trousers and boxy blazers fit for the original Mod era, that Edward Sexton remembers first hand.
The desire to move into suits? Apparently a longstanding one, stemming from Cozette’s own happy memories of watching Tommy Nutter fit her father for his own. We spoke to the designer about the SS16 show., her pin-ups and soundtrack.
What made you move into tailoring this season?
We’ve actually been discussing it for sometime and did have one style of trouser for AW14 made in black bonded jersey. They were pretty low-key because we were testing the water to see whether there would be any interest from stores. There has been talk of a SIBLING suit since then but we waited until we found the ideal partner, the relationship had to be right, they had to respect our brand and us theirs. Anyway, we were chatting with Woolmark about ideas in general around Cool Wool and themes for SS16 which hinge on sportsmen and Mods and we threw this suit idea at them and they ran, I mean really ran with it. We had a meeting with Edward Sexton within days and it was like love at first sight for us: BOOM and a suit was born. Edward was a Mod so he totally ‘got’ our references but also wanted the suit to be a combination of his tailoring and our signatures. He’s worked with Stella and Phoebe at Chloe so understands collaborations well. So the suit has good Sexton shoulders, Mod fit (bum freezer jacket, ankle biter trousers) and SIBLING details such as knit laces, Swirl print lining and inside knit trims.
What has been soundtracking your time in the studio this season?
Today the radio is winding me up as we have Absolute on and everyone is mumbling along to the songs while I’m trying to answer way way way too many emails. You’d be surprised how many interns know the words to 90s music and if they don’t Sid sure does. Joe is rolling his eyes. I’m actually laughing that I wrote this! What a misery. Oh God, “Shiny Happy People” has come on. It may kill me. Joe has suggested we go on a coffee run ‘or just run’.
Are there any particular artists that you have referenced this season?
The Swirl print idea originated from 2 places: Ukiyo-e woodblock print making and the backgrounds of artist Kehinde Whiley’s portraits. Do you know his work? It’s all over Empire now I’ve noticed.
What were your main inspirations for SS16?
Mods, sportsmen notably American football and baseball players from the 1920s, sport details such as lacing, stripes and tight forms, shoulder guards, double denims, hooded fishtail parkas – those ones with the really ratty fake fur trims especially, loafers and socks, ankles, Elton John singing Saturday Night’s (Alright For Fighting) in the 70s, Kehinde’s sports stars in classical poses.
What sort of details are in the collection?
Orange, yellow and turquoise webbing and grosgrain trims, knitted trainer-laces not in trainers, knitted raffia, colour, sparkle. The usual SIBLING stuff.
Who is the ultimate pin-up guy for SS16?
Phil Daniels in Quadrophenia having a pint with Johnny Depp in Nightmare On Elm Street, sitting on Johnny’s bed just as he gets eaten alive by it. I’m being specific because it’s Mr Depp’s outfit at THAT point.
What’s your favourite piece from the collection?
The Sexton SIBLING Mod Jock suit in navy William Healstead tonic. I’m hoping that I’m the same size as Rob Knighton as it’s made to measure. I really want to steal it!
Words: Lily Walker
Photography: Sophie Mayanne