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What was the starting point for the collection? You always have such fun references!

In a way we were searching for the modern venus. We travelled to Florence after our Resort collection and we loved all the reproductions we saw of the ‘Birth of Venus’ on every corner and wanted to incorporate this into our collection. Slashing and cropping to create unsettling effects.

This took us to Kurt Cobain who was another inspiration for us this season, bringing to the collection a grungy, more industrial look with a hint of romanticism. For us he is the most modern romantic reference today.

The ‘Pin Up’ was another layer to the collection exploring sexuality and iconiclasisism through iconic 50’s advertising. Alexander Liberman’s red play ground sculptures, Nicole Wermers’ fur chairs and Oliver Michael’s gold sculptures all reflected our search for materials and our mood for fabrications and cuts for AW16.

What three tracks do you have on the most in the studio making the collection?

Arca, Sade, Grimes & Kreayshawn

Who is your ultimate pin up for AW16?

Someone who is ‘Kurt Cobainian’. This person can be anyone.

How does this collection compare to your last?

It was about moving forward this season. Building from SS16 into AW16 and becoming more refined as a brand. There will be distinct stories within the collection and we would say that this collection has much more creative wearability to it.

What sort of details can we expect?

Large scale against small scale, that is the fundamental contrast we explore in AW16. Mixing various textures in one look. Distressed fabrications with crystal embroideries, layering laser cut fabrics in contrast colours and feminising hard wear.

Give us a sneak preview in three words…

Fizzy, Spongy and Pierced…

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Transformers, More Than the Meets the Eye

Transformers (the brightly coloured cartoon of the 80s rather than the Michael Bay blockbuster films of recent years) was the typically idiosyncratic collaboration partner for Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman this season. The influence of those robots was felt, most obviously, in the free toys given out on the front row and in printed Transformer-themed motifs on sweatshirts and skirts – super playful. But in a less immediate sense, the notion of toy-box art and retro-futurism was clearly integral to the collection: shockingly vivid primary colours, geometric shapes and metallic fabrics shoved up against each other were a hallmark.

Back To the Future

The array of cuts weren’t reserved either: dresses made up of innumerable bows in a neoprene-type fabric cropped up, as did enlarged fringing and boxy, sleeveless long-jackets. The pieces that sounded an especially space-age note were those featuring architectural ruffles that protruded from the sleeves or extremely pronounced shoulders that jutted out several inches (with the large peak lapels to match) – both of which wouldn’t have looked out of place on a sci-fi movie femme fatale.

Kitsch-Mania

Among this bricolage of cuts and fabrics, wild prints were also a key player. They came not just in Transformer battle-scenes, but also in distorted houndstooth repeats and all-over flower designs. Regardless of the style, though, all the prints found themselves finished in a silicon coating which gave the clothes that 50s-vision-of-outer-space vibe that seemed so essential to the collection. If you’re wondering what shoes to pair with Fyodor Golan’s bold designs, their eccentric shoes also deserve a mention: they were sandals with super-tall, highlighter-green platforms – well if you’re fearless enough to pull-off the clothes, why shy away when it comes to footwear?

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Photographer: Thurstan Redding

Words: Benji Walters

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Whether you’ve hung up this season’s most outrageous outfit or jumped on the next plane to Milan, the dust and glitter leftover from LFW is just beginning to settle. It’s unlikely that you’ll forget the best moments from the AW15 shows but we’ve listed our top seven just to make sure. You can thank us when you’re back from Paris.

Shouty Slogans

Ashley Williams was serving up truth with her patches. “Improve your image, be seen with me,” words anyone wearing the new collection can say wholeheartedly. Ashish’s “SEX” jumper will certainly sell, proving the saying true and Sophia Webster’s never-fail clutches were adorned with messages of “Touch my Clutch” and our favourite piece from her was the “Sexy Back” backpack. Simple, effective, cute.

Furry Friends

Obviously, for AW, fur was everywhere. Our favourites were of the patchwork variety at Ashish or on the hems of latex macs at Sibling (is there some sort of waiting list we need to be on for one of those btw?). The cutest was faux and worn on the Martian models at Shrimps, with their selection of fluff trimmed peep toes, striped coats and petal shaped clutches. Vibrantly coloured, utterly dreamy and probably softer than the real bunnies at Marcus Lupfer.

Street Walkers

Ashish made it ok for us to wear hooker boots, whether they’re PVC, lace-up, platformed, or all three. Over at Fyodor Golan they came in thigh-high baby pink patent styles, whilst Ed Marler took on a trashy tone too with his laced trousers and his models worked it in the highest energy show of the season with one of the best set designs and soundtracks too.

Boho is Back

Tassels and fringing galore were on show at Burberry and Temperley. Temperley luxed it up with jewel colours and sequins whereas Burberry stuck to the classic 70s earth tones, suede and florals. Topshop Unique also snuck into retro territory with au naturel hair, high necklines, shearling and the sweetest dandelion prints and embroidery, not to forget Paul Smith’s mustard shearling number, sure to be a favourite when autumn comes rolling in.

Gothic Girls

Vivienne Westwood always has something dark or devilish and this season was no exception with Rollacoaster cover girl Daisy Lowe taking to the catwalk in a hip hugging black lace gown, with scary almost industrial neck chains to up the ante. Giles was the real goth girl collection though with pieces straight out of a fairytale. Exaggerated bows, ruffs and dominatrix PVC gave the perfect balance between traditional and contemporary and black slick lips teamed with french plaited hair combined girlishness and witch-chic.

Pretty in Pink

It’s a tried, old and untrue stereotype that’s blue’s for boys and pink’s for girls but you would have taken it as gospel at LFW. Every shade of blush, petal, peach, magenta and even Pepto Bismol was on show just about everywhere. House of Holland, Ashley Williams, Simone Rocha and Sibling skirted around the saccharine with PVC and latex infused collections whereas Molly Goddard embraced the fluff and frills of the colour with her dreamy fairytale tulle creations.

One of the Boys

No nonsense was had at Margaret Howell, Paul Smith, Belstaff or Joseph. Clean lines, wintry colour palettes and heavy focus on shirts, coats and tailoring at all three brands made a more masculine trio of collections. Loose cuts at Paul Smith will make everything look like you borrowed it from your boyfriend or your brother, in a good way, that is.

Words: Lily Walker

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