Fyodor Golan SS16 was a riot of retro-futurism.
Transformers, More Than the Meets the Eye
Transformers (the brightly coloured cartoon of the 80s rather than the Michael Bay blockbuster films of recent years) was the typically idiosyncratic collaboration partner for Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman this season. The influence of those robots was felt, most obviously, in the free toys given out on the front row and in printed Transformer-themed motifs on sweatshirts and skirts – super playful. But in a less immediate sense, the notion of toy-box art and retro-futurism was clearly integral to the collection: shockingly vivid primary colours, geometric shapes and metallic fabrics shoved up against each other were a hallmark.
Back To the Future
The array of cuts weren’t reserved either: dresses made up of innumerable bows in a neoprene-type fabric cropped up, as did enlarged fringing and boxy, sleeveless long-jackets. The pieces that sounded an especially space-age note were those featuring architectural ruffles that protruded from the sleeves or extremely pronounced shoulders that jutted out several inches (with the large peak lapels to match) – both of which wouldn’t have looked out of place on a sci-fi movie femme fatale.
Kitsch-Mania
Among this bricolage of cuts and fabrics, wild prints were also a key player. They came not just in Transformer battle-scenes, but also in distorted houndstooth repeats and all-over flower designs. Regardless of the style, though, all the prints found themselves finished in a silicon coating which gave the clothes that 50s-vision-of-outer-space vibe that seemed so essential to the collection. If you’re wondering what shoes to pair with Fyodor Golan’s bold designs, their eccentric shoes also deserve a mention: they were sandals with super-tall, highlighter-green platforms – well if you’re fearless enough to pull-off the clothes, why shy away when it comes to footwear?
Photographer: Thurstan Redding
Words: Benji Walters