Fyodor Golan did not entirely depart from the sticky sheen of last season’s transfer prints, but AW16 definitely saw more experimentation with structure and texture. With an astonishing 37 looks showcased, it was no wonder the brand seemed to lack focus for this season. The duo deemed their inspiration the “Birth of Venus/Pin up/ Nicole Wermers/ Textures/Oliver Michaels/Industrialisation/Alexander Liberam/ Rhythm”, true to their typical mishmash style. Beyonce’s Formation back-beat was an appropriate choice as the first model stormed out into the Brewer Street LFW space in a camo-print coat.
A retro, late 60s vibe could be felt in the first half of the collection: empire-line waists with A-line silhouettes at thigh-skimming lengths, oversized sharp collars, flute sleeves and an abundance of O eyelets cleverly integrated into the structure of pieces. A yellow velvet pussy-bow scarf was woven vertically through three eyelets on a matching vest to great effect. Pleated panels and undergarments gave stiff, shift styles movement. Any vintage qualities were made futuristic however, when coloured in the brand’s typical choices of highlighter green and pink. The pin-up inspiration was explored in an obvious and very Fyodor Golan way: on huge transfer prints. Female faces from vintage Coca-Cola adverts were plastered onto red velour coats and skater dresses. A more wearable look was the monochrome, double- vision Coca-Cola logos scrawled onto sporty maxis and layered with a neoprene coat.
DIY textures appeared in the latter part of the show with beading, embroidery, untethered seams, and denim so frayed it was melted to mere threads. Edges were un-hemmed on 80s prom-dress ruffles that ran frequently through the collection– seen tacked around collars and shoulders, and snaked onto skirts and jeans. Looks were loosely linked with the circle motif, which was transformed into a messy, cut-out mesh by the end of the show. No one could accuse Fyodor Golan of being boring or predictable, but collections appear to lose more congruence every season.