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“I Saw A Bride In the Bamboo Forest”

A series of haiku-like phrases constituted the Simone Rocha show notes this season. Lines like “crystal ears, jelly feet” and “man made and natural, flowers and cars” set the tone perfectly for what was to come: thoughtfully composed, vaguely poetic, but also wryly off-kilter and a little self-consciously strange. This celebration of the odd was most evident in Rocha’s conversion of the humble (and infamously ugly) jelly shoe to a bejewled and not entirely loathsome piece of footwear.

Big In Japan

If this sounds gimmicky, it wasn’t really. And neither were the clothes. The designer’s trip to Tokyo didn’t result in cringingly re-appropriated pieces that screamed geisha in a tea ceremony, but rather they whispered their gently and evocatively felt influences; a “moss forest” softness could be observed in delicately fabricated dresses presented in diaphanous chiffon with lightly puffed sleeves. And if a Japanese-inflected floral type motif found itself in a print or two, it didn’t seem overstated.

All Tied Up

There was another side to this collection though: beyond, and sometimes on top of graceful dresses, there was present the idea of binding. It wasn’t necessarily an erotic bondage, but there was certainly an abundance of fabrics that criss-crossed over themselves like links in a fence as well as a recurring motif that consisted of ropes or fabric-straps that softly, and not so softly, harnessed the models into their outfits. It was a delicately subversive touch in a collection that specialised in staying just the right side of strange.

Words: Benji Walters

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Whether you’ve hung up this season’s most outrageous outfit or jumped on the next plane to Milan, the dust and glitter leftover from LFW is just beginning to settle. It’s unlikely that you’ll forget the best moments from the AW15 shows but we’ve listed our top seven just to make sure. You can thank us when you’re back from Paris.

Shouty Slogans

Ashley Williams was serving up truth with her patches. “Improve your image, be seen with me,” words anyone wearing the new collection can say wholeheartedly. Ashish’s “SEX” jumper will certainly sell, proving the saying true and Sophia Webster’s never-fail clutches were adorned with messages of “Touch my Clutch” and our favourite piece from her was the “Sexy Back” backpack. Simple, effective, cute.

Furry Friends

Obviously, for AW, fur was everywhere. Our favourites were of the patchwork variety at Ashish or on the hems of latex macs at Sibling (is there some sort of waiting list we need to be on for one of those btw?). The cutest was faux and worn on the Martian models at Shrimps, with their selection of fluff trimmed peep toes, striped coats and petal shaped clutches. Vibrantly coloured, utterly dreamy and probably softer than the real bunnies at Marcus Lupfer.

Street Walkers

Ashish made it ok for us to wear hooker boots, whether they’re PVC, lace-up, platformed, or all three. Over at Fyodor Golan they came in thigh-high baby pink patent styles, whilst Ed Marler took on a trashy tone too with his laced trousers and his models worked it in the highest energy show of the season with one of the best set designs and soundtracks too.

Boho is Back

Tassels and fringing galore were on show at Burberry and Temperley. Temperley luxed it up with jewel colours and sequins whereas Burberry stuck to the classic 70s earth tones, suede and florals. Topshop Unique also snuck into retro territory with au naturel hair, high necklines, shearling and the sweetest dandelion prints and embroidery, not to forget Paul Smith’s mustard shearling number, sure to be a favourite when autumn comes rolling in.

Gothic Girls

Vivienne Westwood always has something dark or devilish and this season was no exception with Rollacoaster cover girl Daisy Lowe taking to the catwalk in a hip hugging black lace gown, with scary almost industrial neck chains to up the ante. Giles was the real goth girl collection though with pieces straight out of a fairytale. Exaggerated bows, ruffs and dominatrix PVC gave the perfect balance between traditional and contemporary and black slick lips teamed with french plaited hair combined girlishness and witch-chic.

Pretty in Pink

It’s a tried, old and untrue stereotype that’s blue’s for boys and pink’s for girls but you would have taken it as gospel at LFW. Every shade of blush, petal, peach, magenta and even Pepto Bismol was on show just about everywhere. House of Holland, Ashley Williams, Simone Rocha and Sibling skirted around the saccharine with PVC and latex infused collections whereas Molly Goddard embraced the fluff and frills of the colour with her dreamy fairytale tulle creations.

One of the Boys

No nonsense was had at Margaret Howell, Paul Smith, Belstaff or Joseph. Clean lines, wintry colour palettes and heavy focus on shirts, coats and tailoring at all three brands made a more masculine trio of collections. Loose cuts at Paul Smith will make everything look like you borrowed it from your boyfriend or your brother, in a good way, that is.

Words: Lily Walker

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Nominated in the New Establishment Designer category at the British Fashion Awards only yesterday, Simone Rocha is set to make our hearts soar even further with her new collection in collaboration with J Brand.

Totalling 14 pieces in all, we predict a war of wills will be required not to buy it all. In pink, red, and black, the collection’s palette serves girlishness with a pinch of chic. Denim styles offered vary from slim and boyfriend fit jeans, to jackets, dresses, and skirts, with each piece embellished with ruffle details.

A collection that combines Simone Rocha’s mastery of womanhood and J Brand’s denim expertise, what more could you want?

The collection will be available exclusively from Dover Street Market global locations and online from 15th November, and from 1st November at select retailers including Selfridges, Net-A-Porter and Browns, in addition to JBrandJeans.com. 

Words: Heather Gwyther

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Photographed by Tung Walsh and styled by Julia Sarr-Jamois, Taylor stepped into a dress by Dior for her front cover and a series of outfits from Chanel, Prada, Simone Rocha and this very fetching floral print dress from Versus, above. And those shades? Courtesy of the Giles for Cutler and Gross collection. Take it from us, Tay Tay wears clothes well – she’s been 5″10′ since she was a teenager belting out country ballads, after all.

Stay tuned to our site tomorrow, where we’ll release a special sneak peek from the interview and a selection of unseen pictures!

Green Big Daisy dress by Simone Rocha, white leather handbag with red leather flower motif by Prada and white leather loafers by Church’s.

Blue and pink cashmere cardigan by Chanel and white leather skirt by Christopher Kane.

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