Heavy tapestry and voluminous velvet inspired by Louise Bourgeois comprised Simone Rocha’s AW15 collection.
The collection opened with rosehips, quite literally. Rocha’s playful 3D petals hug the girls’ hips and embrace their chests. Bejewelled embellishments enhance the curls and curves consuming their bodies. Her own take on sculpture, like her inspiration Louise Bourgeois, Rocha’s version is softer than the arachnids Bourgeois is famed for.
Silhouettes came in the form of sweeping capes with fur trims and two-piece skirt suits. Handbags were small and rounded, like the kind the Queen might buy, if she was into layered fur, that is. Peter Pan collars on dresses in innocuous shades of nude and pink and abundant strings of pearls were perfectly prim and proper.
Tweed and Tapestry
The royal approach came through in the choice of such luxurious materials. Tapestry outerwear was thick and heavy with blood-red brocade and tweed came dark and smart on suits. Lace was delicate from one end of the spectrum with delicate floral appliqués to black ruffled Gothic attire at the other.