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Sticking To Your Roots

Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida’s position as risen stars was cemented earlier this year with a healthy cash injection from the LVMH fund. They have, after all, made a respected name for themselves in a very short time through their unanimously praised work with shredded, torn and revamped denim. But fans needn’t fear that they’ve jumped the luxury shark thanks to this new found capital: those deconstructed denim pieces were still a mainstay at their SS16 collection.

Romantic Rancher

Expected jean-shaded highlights included a lovely blazer and a long, double-breasted coat that was elegantly belted at the waist but rendered in wonderfully casual, inky thick denim. Other denim pieces like a dress constituted entirely of fraying ruffles was a technical marvel but still managed to be strangely beautiful in its surprising fabrication (though perhaps it wasn’t in the least bit surprising in the context of these designers).

Frills and Spills

Ruffles rather than denim, in fact, were probably the lynchpin of this collection, binding the diverse range of garments together with their super-textured, romantic quality. These frills found themselves on dramatic, asymmetrically sweeping dresses, as well as on tops and skirts, and although they seemed in opposition to the abundance of denim, the tactile ruffles were actually nicely echoed by the raggedy hems of the jeans and the uber-short trucker jacket (which was more of a crop-top really). It was another expansive and yet peculiarly cohesive collection of clothes that will surely cement the duo’s position as one of London’s coolest brands.

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Words: Benji Walters

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Marques Almeida X Topshop

Denim has been at the forefront of fashion for decades. Jeans as we know them were born in the USA, in the late 19th century, when Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis used denim reinforced with copper rivets to make appropriate trousers and overalls for workmen. In the 1950s said jeans were launched into popular culture thanks to James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, but his influence was considered such a corrupting influence on youths that jeans were banned in schools, theatres and restaurants throughout the decade.

It sure seems silly to think that denim was considered frightening all those years ago, with the place it now occupies as a beacon of popular culture. The recent renaissance in 90s influenced fashion has seen denim in all its guises make a fierce comeback, an upcoming highlight being Topshop’s collaboration with Marques Almeida, which drops to much fanfare tomorrow morning, featuring every possible item of clothing in denim: from jackets and shorts to dresses and tee-shirts. In honour of this denim revival, we thought it apt to chart our seven best denim moments in popular culture, from Irish popstrels to rising stars and runaways.

B*Witched

The Irish popstrels took the denim love to a whole new level in the video for their 1998 hit “C’est La Vie”. Working the double denim matching jean and jacket combo, their killer dance routine made for entertainment at many a ’90s slumber party.

Justin and Britney

Posh and Becks certainly made a good stab at the whole his’n’hers-outfits thing, but the winners of that particularly niche pursuit would have to be Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears at the MTV Awards, turning up in glorious matchy-matchy all-denim-everything ensembles. (So brightly is this moment burned into the public consciousness that every person asked for ideas for this article mentioned JT & Brit first.)

(Special mention to Katy Perry and Riff Raff, though, for copying the look earlier this year.)

Kevin Amato for Rollacoaster

Now we’re not ones to brag, but we thought Kevin Amato’s editorial for the last issue of Rollacoaster “Portraits in Denim” was a stunning example of how anyone can use the versatility of denim to create looks that are both wearable and high fashion, without losing touch with their own personal style.

Mark Wahlberg and Kate Moss for Calvin Klein

Ms Moss famously lives by the rule “never explain, never complain” however in a rare candid moment she has spoken about the awkwardness of this shoot, done early in her career, with the then-badboy Marky-Mark Wahlberg (of ‘the Funky Bunch’ fame), saying: “I had a nervous breakdown when I was 17 or 18, when I had to go and work with Marky Mark [Wahlberg] and Herb Ritts. It didn’t feel like me at all. I felt really bad about straddling this buff guy. I didn’t like it. I couldn’t get out of bed for two weeks. I thought I was going to die.” The experience may have been less than pleasant, but the resulting images changed the face of fashion history, introducing Kate, and her then ‘heroin chic’ coined look, into the mainstream.

Chanel Fall 2006 Couture

Totally repurposing the origins of denim, for Chanel’s AW06 Couture show Karl Lagerfeld sent his models down the catwalk in streamlined silhouettes, layering thigh-high denim boots under dresses and skirts, adding a whole new item to the denim-lovers collection: the jean-shoe.

Thelma and Louise

Not only did T&L introduce us to girl power, Brad Pitt and selfies, but the film also showcases some truly awesome examples of how to pull off mom jeans and double denim. Seriously – go back and delve: it’s a fountain of denim-spiration.

…and finally: Absolutely Fabulous

As much as we love denim, it’s safe to sat it doesn’t always go to plan… Before we finish we’ll leave you with a classic example of double denim done wrong, as worn by Ab Fab’s Jennifer Saunders. Wagwan, Brixton.

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We can’t contain our excitement over Topshop’s most recently announced collab. Our double denim prayers have been answered (or triple if you please). Set to drop on October 9th, Marques Almeida’s sixty-eight piece capsule collation for Topshop will remain true to the duo’s design aesthetic, featuring denim led separates, bright silk tailoring, Matrix-esque leathers and electrifying-hued furs fit to fill the ultimate ’90s inspired wardrobe. Mixing high end pieces with luxe raw feeling basics, this is another uniquely powerful Marques Almeida offering.

“This collaboration with Topshop was one of the most fun things we’ve worked on,” say the duo. “We’ve always focused our research around teenagers and what we call the “ youth code” of dressing since we started the brand, and working on this collection meant we could go back and dig deep into those archives, finding old editions of i-D and The Face, Corinne Day and Kate Moss shoots. Sofia (Marta’s sister) and our friends played a big part in forming this collection, as it was all about what we really want to wear! We can’t wait to see the end result in stores and online!”

The campaign images perfectly capture the feel of the collection, depicting a group of friends (including the duo’s muse – Marta’s sister Sofia Marques) frolicking in the pieces, as shot by Marta herself. Set to go into 68 stores, it will also be available on Topshop.com and at Net-A-Porter. Get you’re cash at the ready, this is bound to be a sell out and a fast one at that.

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British fashion would be a far duller place without its fairy godmother, Lulu Kennedy. Under her tenure, Fashion East has grown into the undisputed place to spot emerging talent – and this year proved no different. In particular, Kit Neale (above) and Joseph Turvey build on their reputations following their AW13 presentations while RCA grad Liam Hodges (only three weeks fresh from graduation) makes a splashy debut.

KIT NEALE SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Neale’s planted his installations everywhere from garden allotments to greasy spoon cafes – but this season, he went for a more minimal approach: models perched on white blocks that spelled out ‘KIT NEALE’. Make no mistake about it, though, Neale’s still one of the most colourful young designers on the Fashion East roster (the collection’s called ‘Whammy!’ for a reason): his Peckham Riviera print, as seen on trousers and jackets, is a delightful take on children’s traffic rugs, while his more abstract patterns are no less lively and bamboozling. And let us know where the queue starts for that Perfectly Fried Chicken jumper, okay?

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JOSEPH TURVEY SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Turvey returns for his second Fashion East presentation, this time drawing inspiration from NASCAR driver Ethel Mobley and her family of speed fanatics (racing pioneer Tim Flock being one of them). The need for speed is writ large in big, scream-if-you-wanna-go-faster strips of block colour, but occasionally shows in the most charmingly unexpected details. Look out for Tim Flock’s pet monkey, Jocko Flocko, making an illustrated appearance on the side of a quilted gilet. With tailored joggers, quilted jackets and a subtle use of mesh cut-outs and floral print, it’s a sophisticated, soft take on Turvey’s signature sportswear.

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LIAM HODGES SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Morris dancers are perhaps the least cool of any British subculture ever, and recent RCA graduate Liam Hodges still manages to make them look sexy and dangerous. The models in his ‘Morris Nomads’ collection, shod in Nike slip-ons, looked like Amish boys gone wrong – all black, white and squat party chic. Featuring leather waistcoats distressed to resemble black denim and the now-ubiquitous basketball short, it’s a tough, masculine capsule collection that’s not afraid of graphic and bold silhouettes. When asked if he could imagine “boys” wearing this, one model replied, “Actually, we’re more like lads.” Sounds about right to us. We’ll be keeping an eye on Hodges.

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MARQUES’ ALMEIDA SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Boy, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have come a long way since NEWGEN. Yesterday, they debuted their first-ever men’s collection, created in collaboration with Opening Ceremony. Denim in the deepest blues and indigos was the order of the day, with raw hems and a loose, grunge-y silhouette. But the standout piece was unquestionably the hide biker jacket with contrast sleeves, which was ever-so-slightly iridescent under light: expect this one to fly off the OC shelves.

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TOM RYLING SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Next to Liam Hodges’ scruffy band of brothers, Tom Ryling’s models looked more like a boy band: all scrubbed faces, cheekbones and clean lines. Inspired by childhood holidays on the English seaside, Ryling provided an interesting, considered take on classic pieces: painted denim re-purposed from his adolescent archive, attractive jumpers in a burlap texture.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Topman Design colelction review
Backstage at Astrid Andersen
Backstage at MAN: Bobby Abley, Alan Taylor and Craig Green
Backstage at Lee Roach
Backstage at Richard Nicoll
Lou Dalton collection review
Backstage at Agi & Sam
JW Anderson collection review
Backstage at Katie Eary
Backstage at Sibling

Words: Zing Tsjeng (Follow Zing on Twitter @misszing)
Images: Hatnim Lee

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Gracie van Gastel makes a play for best-dressed farmhand in Joost Vandebrug‘s fashion film, Fryslân. Channeling all-natural, otherwordly simplicity, the Canadian beauty wears a series of jersey and denim looks from brands like Marques Almeida and Kinder Aggugini before quite literally letting her hair down in the bath. A girlish updo by Amber-Rose Peake and windswept, youthful make-up by Gina Blondell complete the impression of a girl on the farm in the middle of her chores.

“Fryslân is a farmer’s province in Holland, where Joost grew up,” stylist Tom Eerebout explains. “I’m from a small village in Belgium as well. That’s what girls there dress like – on a farm, you have to choose practicality above style. But

in the bathtub at the end, you see she’s an actual woman, not an innocent girl.”

Filmed on location in Kent, at the Christmas Tree Farm (yes, it’s called the Christmas Tree Farm all year round), posed some interesting challenges. “We did all the hair and make-up in a barn, with the goats right next to us,” Eerebout says. “But Gracie is from Canada and she actually grew up on a farm, so she was really good with them. It was only the donkeys she was a little afraid of, because they can bite your hand off!”

Director: Joost Vandebrug
Stylist: Tom Eerebout
Hair: Amber-Rose Peake using BUMBLE AND BUMBLE
Make-up: Gina Blondell using CHANEL
Model: Gracie Van Gastel from ELITE

Look 1: Shirt by HUSSEIN CHALAYAN, dungarees and clogs by KINDER AGGUGINI, wool socks by ASOS, hairnet from PAKS
Look 2: Knitted cardigan by CRAIG LAWRENCE, wool jumper by MARGARET HOWELL, jeans by ASHISH, sandals by MARQUES ALMEIDA
Look 3: Coat by MARQUES ALMEIDA, white knitted dress with collar by SISTER BY SIBLING, skirt and shoes by MARGARET HOWELL
Look 4: Knitted dress by CRAIG LAWRENCE
Look 5: Shirt by KINDER AGGUGINI, denim apron by MARQUES ALMEIDA, skirt by VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL
Look 6: Denim shirt by MARGARET HOWELL, dress by HOLLY FULTON
Look 7: Dress by MARQUES ALMEIDA, clogs by KINDER AGGUGINI, wool socks by ASOS
Look 8: Shirt by VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL, dress with lace detail by ALBERTA FERRETTI

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