London Collections: Men Archives | Wonderland

LCM Preview – CMMN SS17

Wonderland Staff — Fri, 10 Jun 2016 10:23:19 +0000

CMMN take inspiration from Moroccan souks and the artists and thieves that roam within in them for SS17.

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MODELS 1: BACKSTAGE AT LCM

Wonderland Staff — Mon, 27 Jan 2014 12:34:39 +0000

Models 1 take us backstage with some of their male models at London Collections: Men AW14.

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LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN: DAY 3

Wonderland Staff — Fri, 10 Jan 2014 07:38:48 +0000

Here are our best bits from LC:M Day 3 including Burberry, Sibling, Agi and Sam and Nasir Mazhar.

Day 3 of LC:M begun with newly awarded ‘Best Emerging Menswear Designers’ Agi and Sam who instead of their usual colour explosion this season sent out design in strict monochrome, then onto Sibling where the boys looked tough in short shorts and extravagant knits. Onto Burberry where this seasons accessories were key having shawls over the shoulders of every look. Next Christopher Shannon who again did a modern take on the tracksuit, and finally over to Nasir Mazhar who had recreated traditional tailoring items such as cummerbunds in his usually Nasir style. Here are our best bits from Day 3 at LC:M!

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London Collections: Nasir Mazhar SS14

Wonderland Staff — Thu, 20 Jun 2013 11:07:08 +0000

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London Collections: E Tautz SS14

Wonderland Staff — Thu, 20 Jun 2013 10:38:00 +0000

Global traveller met Edwardian schoolboy in time for E. Tautz’s gently subversive SS14 catwalk show.

It was over before you know it so we’ll excuse you for forgetting that each and every piece in the afternoon’s E. Tautz show was the result of six months of preparation and craft by Savile Row tailor Patrick Grant. But there sure were a heady load of references for a glossy front row of Laura Whitmore, Caroline Issa and David Gandy. From Edwardian buttoned-up formality and suiting to the more playful Teddy boy contrast collars and cuffs the E. Tautz man for s/s14 is a well-tailored gent (obvs), predominantly inspired by stripes and subversive tailoring.

On the whole, this was an intriguing collection. Abstract patterns on coats and jumpers, primary colour blocking via reds, pinks, greens and blues and oversized garments meant that it was scholarly (some of the coats were gown-like in their swoopy-ness) but more gap year than term time dressing. There was plenty to covet individually, including smoking kimono-style silky jackets and oversized Aztec-inspired jumpers. One for the more thoughtful dresser/buyer this LC:M.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Topman Design colelction review
Backstage at Astrid Andersen
Backstage at MAN: Bobby Abley, Alan Taylor and Craig Green
Backstage at Lee Roach
Backstage at Richard Nicoll
Lou Dalton collection review
Backstage at Agi & Sam
JW Anderson collection review
Backstage at Katie Eary
Backstage at Sibling
Fashion East showcase review: Kit Neale, Joseph Turvey, Liam Hodges, Marques’ Almeida and Tom Ryling
Backstage at Christopher Shannon
Burberry collection review
Shaun Samson collection review

Words: Sophie Haslett (Follow Sophie on Twitter @SophieHaslettXX)

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London Collections: Shaun Samson SS14

Wonderland Staff — Thu, 20 Jun 2013 10:20:16 +0000

Go to the beach (each), because for SS14 Shaun Samson is pure iridescent brilliance.

“I like Shaun Samson,” tweeted @hapsical at 10.39am this morning. You know what? We like Shaun Samson too. Especially after this morning’s sheer-shirted, metallic-detailed SS14 collection, in which iridescence and dishevelled beach cool were updated and made fully 2.0. Towels were worn as skirts, wetsuits were worn as shirts and hair was worn as if the boys had just come in from a day of surfing on Byron Bay.

There was more than a hint of the skater trend present in the beach-inspired, Snoop Dogg-soundtracked line. Clothes were paired with battered Vans and Samson-emblazoned boxers, and bare chests were mandatory unless you were one of the models sporting a wetsuit. As one of the hottest pieces of property on the menswear circuit right now Samson didn’t disappoint, and highlights of the show included his signature oversized t-shirts and several shimmering sequinned shirts (cue the snap snap of countless iPhone magpies).

Samson has speedily made a name for himself for fusing multiple materials together in one garment, and today was a continuation of this trademark. We think Shaun Samson just pitched the ideal collection. School’s out.

Words: Sophie Haslett (Follow Sophie on Twitter @SophieHaslettXX)

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London Collections: Burberry Menswear SS14

Wonderland Staff — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 10:06:23 +0000

Burberry makes its London comeback with Christopher Bailey’s new, relaxed take on English style.

Christopher Bailey returned to London in that most quintessentially English of settings: the garden party. Or at least, a garden party marquee in Kensington Gardens. The inspirations, too, were quintessentially English: the vivid, zingy colours by way of David Hockney and the clothes – a looser, boho take on British preppiness – courtesy of Alan Bennett.

David Gandy, Tinie Tempah, Douglas Booth and Hugh Dancy eyed up the offering from the front row – you can imagine that this collection is the kind of thing you’d see them wear, and wear, and wear. Bailey’s was a relaxed, slouchier approach than previous seasons – not so much the cosmopolitan trench-clad Londoner as the English schoolboy gone on a trip to the seaside, though obviously clad in luxurious cashmere, silk and linen.

There were weatherproof cagoules, sou’westers (peaked sailing hats) and soft leather swim bags and duffles slung casually across the models’ shoulders. Gingham, florals and two-toned boaters all provided requisite pops of colour, with the chunky, rectangular sunglasses adding an extra touch (in true Burberry 2.0 style, the latter was available to order from the Burberry website after the show). All in all, a graceful return to the London stage.

Words: Zing Tsjeng (Follow Zing on Twitter @misszing)
Images: Hatnim Lee

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London Collections: Backstage at Christopher Shannon SS14

Wonderland Staff — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 09:25:07 +0000

Christopher Shannon explores his teenage clubbing memories of Liverpool, with surprising – and surprisingly pleasing – results.

Christopher Shannon went old school 90s fabulous with a club classics-inspired collection that we can’t wait to wear next spring. PVC rainbow plastic shorts, glitter hair and a palette of pink, acid green, yellow and orange were the mainstays, and the retro-inspired collaboration with Liberty saw floral boxers get tucked into shirts and matching shorts.

But the devil was certainly in the detail with this collection. After all, why rely on your outfit to do the talking when your hair can too? Models literally shone in sparkly shades of red, lilac, turquoise and blue hairspray, and each and every guest was gifted with their own DIY hair kit by Fudge on their seat.

On the whole, the outlook for the SS14 Christopher Shannon man is acid sportswear. Sorry, Christopher, we know the look is totally up north but we’re nicking this for London, too.

Words: Sophie Haslett (Follow Sophie on Twitter @SophieHasletXX)
Images: Hatnim Lee

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London Collections: Fashion East SS14

Wonderland Staff — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 00:27:35 +0000

We gawp at the Fashion East talent assembled for spring/summer 2014, including Kit Neale, Joseph Turvey, Liam Hodges, Marques’ Almeida and Tom Ryling.

British fashion would be a far duller place without its fairy godmother, Lulu Kennedy. Under her tenure, Fashion East has grown into the undisputed place to spot emerging talent – and this year proved no different. In particular, Kit Neale (above) and Joseph Turvey build on their reputations following their AW13 presentations while RCA grad Liam Hodges (only three weeks fresh from graduation) makes a splashy debut.

KIT NEALE SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Neale’s planted his installations everywhere from garden allotments to greasy spoon cafes – but this season, he went for a more minimal approach: models perched on white blocks that spelled out ‘KIT NEALE’. Make no mistake about it, though, Neale’s still one of the most colourful young designers on the Fashion East roster (the collection’s called ‘Whammy!’ for a reason): his Peckham Riviera print, as seen on trousers and jackets, is a delightful take on children’s traffic rugs, while his more abstract patterns are no less lively and bamboozling. And let us know where the queue starts for that Perfectly Fried Chicken jumper, okay?

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JOSEPH TURVEY SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Turvey returns for his second Fashion East presentation, this time drawing inspiration from NASCAR driver Ethel Mobley and her family of speed fanatics (racing pioneer Tim Flock being one of them). The need for speed is writ large in big, scream-if-you-wanna-go-faster strips of block colour, but occasionally shows in the most charmingly unexpected details. Look out for Tim Flock’s pet monkey, Jocko Flocko, making an illustrated appearance on the side of a quilted gilet. With tailored joggers, quilted jackets and a subtle use of mesh cut-outs and floral print, it’s a sophisticated, soft take on Turvey’s signature sportswear.

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LIAM HODGES SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Morris dancers are perhaps the least cool of any British subculture ever, and recent RCA graduate Liam Hodges still manages to make them look sexy and dangerous. The models in his ‘Morris Nomads’ collection, shod in Nike slip-ons, looked like Amish boys gone wrong – all black, white and squat party chic. Featuring leather waistcoats distressed to resemble black denim and the now-ubiquitous basketball short, it’s a tough, masculine capsule collection that’s not afraid of graphic and bold silhouettes. When asked if he could imagine “boys” wearing this, one model replied, “Actually, we’re more like lads.” Sounds about right to us. We’ll be keeping an eye on Hodges.

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MARQUES’ ALMEIDA SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Boy, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have come a long way since NEWGEN. Yesterday, they debuted their first-ever men’s collection, created in collaboration with Opening Ceremony. Denim in the deepest blues and indigos was the order of the day, with raw hems and a loose, grunge-y silhouette. But the standout piece was unquestionably the hide biker jacket with contrast sleeves, which was ever-so-slightly iridescent under light: expect this one to fly off the OC shelves.

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TOM RYLING SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Next to Liam Hodges’ scruffy band of brothers, Tom Ryling’s models looked more like a boy band: all scrubbed faces, cheekbones and clean lines. Inspired by childhood holidays on the English seaside, Ryling provided an interesting, considered take on classic pieces: painted denim re-purposed from his adolescent archive, attractive jumpers in a burlap texture.

Words: Zing Tsjeng (Follow Zing on Twitter @misszing)
Images: Hatnim Lee

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London Collections: Sibling SS14

Wonderland Staff — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 14:25:13 +0000

The models were all smiles at yesterday’s Sibling spring/summer show – and they had good reason to be, too.

It was hardly a surprise the models were smirking at the Sibling catwalk show this morning at Victoria House. We would too if we had the luxury of rocking Joe Bates, Cozette McCreery and Sid Bryan’s psychedelic sequins, graphic lines and leopard print. Fifties pin-ups and imagery from the civil rights movement adorned the all-American West Side Story-inspired collection, and rockabilly denim, baseball jackets and matching quiffs injected fun and character into the morning’s proceedings.

The collection worked around the idea of masculine youth, change and conflict, according to the trio of designers before the show. Their love of colour and intarsia stitching remained strong, and naturally there was plenty of big cat print for us to pore over. The collection for next season was bold, it was playful and it might not be for everyone (ahem, David Gandy), but we loved it and wished all models would smile a little more when they stalk the catwalks. The trio got some serious love from the crowd, too. And IRL that’s what matters.

Words: Sophie Haslett (Follow Sophie on Twitter @SophieHaslettXX)
Images: Mark Rabadan

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