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Get back in line

Streaks of military tropes sneak into the mind when summing up Joseph Turvey’s SS16 collection, and you just need to glance at the model’s chosen make-up to understand why. With faces dappled in khaki green, the looks are posed with a militant confidence and dont-give-a-fuck raised chins against army-tent-esque canvas sheets splashed in pangs of green, red and blue. Labelling this collection as solely military influenced, however, would be a false judgment. SS16 has seen a soar of functional sportswear and with shorts and vests in light, white cotton bases, Turvey SS16 makes for the ideal summer collection inspired by the sports aesthetic.

The man’s face

Hand drawn illustrated men’s faces is Joesph Turvey’s trademark and this season we take note of the definitive and reoccurring motif. Moving his signature drawings off the page and into a 3-D context as part of his clothing designs, Turvey adds a touch of hand-drawn craft. French Orphism and artist Sonia Delaunay is recognised as a few of his inspirations for SS16, and the contrast of deep blacks and navy stripes with a rainbow palette is a prime example of that inspiration at work.

Street cred

Past the knee shorts, cuffed joggers, long t-shirts and sporty parka jackets topped with white Nike sneaks and crispy white socks, Turvey takes the sporty street aesthetic and reinvents it with dazzling colour and bold, statement stripes. Loose and light hoodies have also made their way into the collection, proving that fun but practically comfortable pieces suitable for everyday and any day wear is at the centre of the Joseph Turvey spirit.

Words: Hannah Sargeant

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Menswear designer and illustrator Joseph Turvey and Illustrator Josh Parkin invite you to explore their work this weekend at their limited time only pop-up shop at The Hackney Shop, opening this Saturday through until October 3rd. Showcasing their talent, Josh and Joseph are offering up some of their most prized pieces, available in original or print editions. Alongside these, key pieces of Joseph’s AW14 collection and past seasons will also be sold across the week.

East London DJ Siobhan Bell, has mixed an exclusive set for the event, which you can listen to here.

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Following the presentation of his SS15 collection at LCM, Joseph Turvey has now unveiled his SS15 editorial lookbook ‘Girls’, where he breaks the maxims of traditional lookbooks by putting his collection on a female model.
Joseph’s sportswear driven silhouettes juxtaposed with silk and lace has are starting to become his early trademark. The use of these fabrics has resulted in him gaining an ever-increasing female fan base, and a high demand for him to produce a collection for women. Of this demand, Joseph says “I started designing womenswear during my studies and love that my menswear can crossover effortlessly” before adding “Since my first collection women have been buying pieces so i wanted to create an editorial that thanked those women who have been supporting me from the start”.
Here, we  had a brief catch-up with Joseph to discuss his work and take a look at his latest lookbook.

Why are sportswear silhouettes so important for you?

I think its a purely selfish reason. I just love to wear sportswear. Being able to develop my designs through fabrics, prints, and tailoring techniques enabled me to create my own message through traditional sportswear silhouettes. This season we took bomber jackets and made them in duchess satins and another that was made from iridescent yarns woven into cotton to mimic water reflection. Sportswear is so much more accessible than tailoring and is open to interpretation.

Why do you think your designs have such a great appeal to both sexes?

I think having a background in both mens and womenswear has enabled me to design collections that can easily relate to both sexes. Mixing fabrics that traditionally are used in womenswear with menswear tailoring and sportswear silhouettes creates an androgynous collection.

Who would be the perfect pin up girl/guy for this collection?

I think this season has to be all about Gwendoline Christie. Everyone in the studio is obsessed with Games of Thrones and we are in awe of her.

If you had to describe this collection in 5 words what would they be?

Fish. Iridescent. Yakuza. Black. Watercolour.

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Having shown at LC:M for four consecutive successful seasons, SS15 sees Joseph Turvey return with another stellar showcase in the heart of Bloomsbury. Renowned for his masterful approach to sportswear driven silhouettes, it’s no surprise that this time around Turvey is continuing to push the boundaries of the streetwear aesthetic through his experimental approach to both fabrication and technique.

Featuring futuristic iridescent organza, silk twills, brushed cottons and illustrative water-colour prints, textural depth was clearly a key theme for this collection. Inspired by iconic Japanese imagery of Koi Karp and the designs featured in Yakuza body art, Joseph introduced the Karp to his work through hand drawn illustrations brought to life with splashes of colour which bleed from the motif. Telling a story of a boy and a fish who become one through body and spirit, the illustrations create a strong sense of uniformity throughout the collection. Whilst the shimmering iridescent fabric mirrors the multi-faceted nature of water, hand sewn sequins enhance prints with colour and reflection, whilst embroidered tule created in collaboration with French lace mill, Sophie Hallette is suggestive of opaline fish scales.

Joseph also worked closely with footwear brand Anthony Miles to create a bespoke collection comprising of bold coloured uppers and translucent soles to accompany this collection.

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Joseph Turvey has released a mini-video giving us a taster of what’s in store at his show later today. Featuring a white printed sweatshirt, we’re expecting more of Turvey’s signature illustration based print work, along with a healthy helping of luxe sportswear silhouettes. The show takes place today at the Raddisson Hotel, Bloomsburyat  7.30 pm.

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This Spring, River Island’s Design Forum initiative has partnered with Joseph Turvey, the young British menswear designer loved for his weird, cute illustrations and unexpected fabrications. The range is heavy on pink camouflage and beanies proclaiming Joseph Turvey, so it’s clear who’s gang you’re in, teamed with more restrained grey marl pieces and fitted tracksuit shapes.. We grabbed Joseph to talk camo, B-Boys, and what it’s like entering the world of River Island.

If pink camouflage were to magically gain a voice, what would it say?

WEAR ME!

Could you talk a bit about how planet B-Boy inspired the collection?

I have loved the work of Jamel Shabazz for a long time and had recently watched Planet B-boy before my first meeting with River Island. I loved the energy and silhouettes of the clothing and I knew I wanted to try and capture this into the collection. The fabrics were tailored to sportswear with neoprene and jersey but we added some intarsia knits and rubber to enhance textures and prints.

What were you thinking about for your own AW14 season?

For the coming season I wanted to experiment with the placements of my prints and use different techniques to enhance digital print. Mixing digital and hand techniques is something that really interests me and this is something I really wanted to capture within the collection.

Who would you most like to see wearing your clothes?

Solange. She wears prints and colours so effortlessly. Also loving King Krule.

Did you have to adapt your design mentality for the high street? Was it exciting working with such a big company?

I wanted to have a collection that wouldn’t alienate my customer or the River Island customer. It was a fun and different way to approach design with more “rules” than I would usually set for my own collections. It was very daunting at first to work with such a big team but I came to realise that everyone is just as excited about the collection as you are and we all want the final outcome to be the best it can be. It’s been an amazing year of my life.

The 16 piece collection will be available to buy in selected stores and online from the end of February 2014.

Photographer Jeff Hahn
Fashion Editor Andrew Davis 
Words Jack Sunnucks

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British fashion would be a far duller place without its fairy godmother, Lulu Kennedy. Under her tenure, Fashion East has grown into the undisputed place to spot emerging talent – and this year proved no different. In particular, Kit Neale (above) and Joseph Turvey build on their reputations following their AW13 presentations while RCA grad Liam Hodges (only three weeks fresh from graduation) makes a splashy debut.

KIT NEALE SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Neale’s planted his installations everywhere from garden allotments to greasy spoon cafes – but this season, he went for a more minimal approach: models perched on white blocks that spelled out ‘KIT NEALE’. Make no mistake about it, though, Neale’s still one of the most colourful young designers on the Fashion East roster (the collection’s called ‘Whammy!’ for a reason): his Peckham Riviera print, as seen on trousers and jackets, is a delightful take on children’s traffic rugs, while his more abstract patterns are no less lively and bamboozling. And let us know where the queue starts for that Perfectly Fried Chicken jumper, okay?

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JOSEPH TURVEY SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Turvey returns for his second Fashion East presentation, this time drawing inspiration from NASCAR driver Ethel Mobley and her family of speed fanatics (racing pioneer Tim Flock being one of them). The need for speed is writ large in big, scream-if-you-wanna-go-faster strips of block colour, but occasionally shows in the most charmingly unexpected details. Look out for Tim Flock’s pet monkey, Jocko Flocko, making an illustrated appearance on the side of a quilted gilet. With tailored joggers, quilted jackets and a subtle use of mesh cut-outs and floral print, it’s a sophisticated, soft take on Turvey’s signature sportswear.

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LIAM HODGES SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Morris dancers are perhaps the least cool of any British subculture ever, and recent RCA graduate Liam Hodges still manages to make them look sexy and dangerous. The models in his ‘Morris Nomads’ collection, shod in Nike slip-ons, looked like Amish boys gone wrong – all black, white and squat party chic. Featuring leather waistcoats distressed to resemble black denim and the now-ubiquitous basketball short, it’s a tough, masculine capsule collection that’s not afraid of graphic and bold silhouettes. When asked if he could imagine “boys” wearing this, one model replied, “Actually, we’re more like lads.” Sounds about right to us. We’ll be keeping an eye on Hodges.

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MARQUES’ ALMEIDA SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Boy, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have come a long way since NEWGEN. Yesterday, they debuted their first-ever men’s collection, created in collaboration with Opening Ceremony. Denim in the deepest blues and indigos was the order of the day, with raw hems and a loose, grunge-y silhouette. But the standout piece was unquestionably the hide biker jacket with contrast sleeves, which was ever-so-slightly iridescent under light: expect this one to fly off the OC shelves.

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TOM RYLING SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Next to Liam Hodges’ scruffy band of brothers, Tom Ryling’s models looked more like a boy band: all scrubbed faces, cheekbones and clean lines. Inspired by childhood holidays on the English seaside, Ryling provided an interesting, considered take on classic pieces: painted denim re-purposed from his adolescent archive, attractive jumpers in a burlap texture.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Topman Design colelction review
Backstage at Astrid Andersen
Backstage at MAN: Bobby Abley, Alan Taylor and Craig Green
Backstage at Lee Roach
Backstage at Richard Nicoll
Lou Dalton collection review
Backstage at Agi & Sam
JW Anderson collection review
Backstage at Katie Eary
Backstage at Sibling

Words: Zing Tsjeng (Follow Zing on Twitter @misszing)
Images: Hatnim Lee

The post London Collections: Fashion East SS14 appeared first on Wonderland.

Joseph Turvey from Juan José Lorenzo on Vimeo.

Along with Bobby Abley, London-based menswear designer Turvey is one of the newcomers to the Fashion East stable, joining other up-and-comers like Kit Neale and Maarten van der Horst. Inspired by Cruella DeVille, he transplanted the spots of her Dalmations onto bomber jackets, cashmere jumpers and a hoody, delighting the crowds with his technical ability, passion and playful approach to fabric. Fashion East has always been a fertile breeding ground for new British talent – and Joseph Turvey is no different.

www.josephturvey.com

Words: Shane Hawkins

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