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Hot Hues

A bright palette of reds and yellows could be seen in all their vivid glory in Johnathan Saunders’s venue: a semi-transparent plastic greenhouse which allowed the light (and the heat) to soar in and illuminate his summer-ready designs. These shades didn’t just sing on their own though, they were meshed against each other in unique and surprising ways – light brown and blue found themselves alternating in a diagonal stripe while crimson and a super-feminine pink pattern were also thrown together with delicious abandon.

Effortful Effortlessness

Beyond the colour that has become Saunders’ trademark, a new speciality shined through this time: the bias cut. Infamously demanding, technically speaking, the designer himself exclaimed “what a nightmare!” when it came to talking about the signature cut of this collection. A nightmare to pull off, perhaps, but the finished products were a heavenly dream: it gave everything a fluent, carefree elegance that perfectly complimented the exotic glamour of the pieces.

Culture Clash

And exotically multicultural they were; African inspired batik prints cropped up, as did some wonderful takes on the kimono cut that were somewhere between jackets and tops and were tied with degage elegance at the waist with printed belts. All in all it was an inspired season for Saunders and with greater financial investment for his brand this year, it’s good to know that his creativity is as strong as his business.

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Lyle & Scott and Jonathan Saunders launched their sports luxe-influenced collection at LC:M ahead of the store launch this August

Ahead of the drop of their collection in stores this August, the much anticipated second instalment of the Lyle & Scott and Jonathan Saunders collaboration launched at SS15 London Collections: Men this week. Placing key importance on the Scottish kinship, colour ways and graphic pattern, the collaboration is representative of both brands’ DNAs.

Having been a fan of the Shane Meadows film, Stone Roses: Made of Stone, that features Lyle & Scott apparel alongside other British sportswear brands throughout, Jonathan Saunders’s took inspiration from this for the twenty-six piece collection. Creating an aesthetic synonymous with both brands’ heritage the stand out piece in the collection is a bold, primary colour, striped intarsia constructed from the sports yarn, polypropylene, which is plated with 100% cotton for comfort.

The rest of the collection comprises of Italian-made fine merino wool mid layers, newly added bomber jackets, polyamide jumpers and knitted polo shirts with contrast collars. The footwear and t-shirts stand out with an all over applied paint splatter print, an eye-catching contrast against the block colour apparel. Like last season each garment is branded on the chest by one of four different coloured eagles that reference the collections main palette and whilst the price point is slightly higher than that of the Lyle & Scott mainline collection, this is a limited edition most covetable collection. Illustrated by Craig and Karl for the London Collections: Men launch, the collection will be available to buy this August.

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Sequins and studs are no longer constricted to nighttime debauchery. This season, sparkling clusters and metallic sheens meant for daytime revelry prevailed at Burberry and Jonathan Saunders. Along with diamond whites, SS13 revels in jewel tones – fiery reds, sapphire blues, deep purples and emerald greens. So remember the rule of summer: the shinier, the better.

Designers to follow: Burberry, Jonathan Saunders, Simone Rocha, Fendi, Alexander Wang

It’s time to get in touch with your untapped subconscious, because psychedelia was all over the spring/summer runway. House of Holland released a glamorous but daring collection full of hallucinogenic yellows, peace-loving purples and acid greens, while Mary Katrantzou and Holly Fulton concentrated on abstracted, Pollock-like patterns. Ditch your inner wallflower, because this trend is loud and proud.

Designers to follow: House of Holland, Mary Katrantzou, Holly Fulton, Proenza Schouler, Peter Pilotto

For the indispensable key item for this season, may we suggest the biker or bomber jacket? These jackets toughen traditionally sweet and feminine looks, plus they’ll keep you toasty in the typically freezing English springtime. Stella McCartney and Christopher Kane provide sporty, relaxed bombers while Versus biker jackets will release the beach babe badass in you.

Designers to follow: Stella McCartney, Christopher Kane, Antipodium, Versus, Daks

Of course it wouldn’t be spring without floral prints bloomin’ everywhere. But these aren’t your Grandma-on-Easter-Sunday florals; these are floral prints on acid. Vibrant colours and intricate motifs cascade down skirts at Dior, on trousers at Erdem, and on the heads of Vivienne Westwood models. But it’s not just flowers on display; garden critters litter the fashion landscape, from snakeskin to bird motifs. So take a risk on one of the most traditional spring trends in fashion; we promise you won’t be disappointed.

Designers to follow: Vivienne Westwood, Erdem, Christian Dior, Valentino, Kinder Aggugini

Don’t worry if colourful prints and metallics aren’t your thing – another runway trend is monochrome. Black and white pairings dominated the runways of Louis Vuitton, Acne, and Chanel. But this trend is anything but boring; in fact, instead of blending with the bushes or graffiti, monochrome is the standout trend here, appearing as stripes and standout checks.

Designers to follow: Acne, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Balenciaga, Eudon Choi

When we long for warm, summer days (particularly with the recent, sub-zero weather forecast), we usually envision the bare midriffs and over classic nineties coming-of-age film. Luckily, the SS13 trend of nineties sport plays perfectly to our idea of a casual summer. Topshop Unique, JW Anderson and others reveled in nineties nostalgia, from oversized cloth jumpers, neon jersey and grunge-inspired mesh jackets. So dust off those old dungarees: the nineties is, like, totally back.

Designers to follow: Topshop Unique, Ashish, JW Anderson, Richard Nicoll, Antonio Berardi

Girly to gamine is the theme of spring and summer fashion. From Michael Kors to Stella McCartney, designers mixed feminine, whimsical looks with straight-edged, androgynous cuts, allowing for day-to-day role-play. Whether you mix tea dresses with biker jackets or tailored suits with bare-midriffs, shake up those conformist gender norms, because this season it’s all about exploring the layers of modern womanhood.

Designers to follow: Michael Kors, Lacoste. Acne, Stella McCartney, Thomas Tait

Words: Elise Marraro (follow Elise on Twitter: PardonMe_Lissie)

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Jonathan Saunders’ AW13 presentation was a glimpse into a procrastinating artist’s studio, from daubed paint prints on merino wool jumpers (according to Saunders he was inspired by “splodging paint onto paper at his desk”) to burnt orange palette collages on the wall.

Colour-bleed bomber jackets in sky blues and hot pinks emphasised that ombré is here to stay – pointing out that it’s the boys turn to have a crack at the trend. There was a wearable neatness about the olive green colour block woollen coats, and with casual but form-fitting bomber jackets and trousers, this was one collection to flatter the male silhouette.  As the models got their pose on, you couldn’t help but notice the vermillion colour pop soles contrasting with the dark patent leather on their slip-ons. Trust Saunders to bring a barrage of colour to AW13 – come next autumn, we’ll probably need it.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Backstage at MAN: Astrid Anderson, Craig Green and Agi & Sam
Backstage at Richard Nicoll
Backstage at Topman Design
Backstage at James Long
Backstage at JW Anderson
Backstage at Christopher Shannon
Backstage at Shaun Samson

Words: Esme Anderson
Images: Hatnim Lee

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When did you become a model?

I went to an agency in Latvia when I was 16 and enquired into modelling. I left my details with the agency and they started sending me to castings. My first casting was to a London agency and they took me on straight away.

What were you doing before modelling?

I was in school and was doing dancing at an after-school club. I wanted to be a dancer but was getting quite tall so people started suggesting I try and model instead.

What do you like to do when you’re not modelling?

I like walking around and exploring the cities I’m in and I’m quite sporty so enjoying going to the gym. I can’t just sit around watching TV, I need to be doing some kind of activity. I’m kind of a nature kid, especially in the spring time. It gives me energy.

What shows did you walk in last season?

I just did London last season. I walked for Matthew Williamson, Jasper Conran and Temperley.

Where has been your favourite place you’ve travelled?

I love lots of places. NYC and London are great. I also love going to more exotic places like Brazil.

Do you have a particular photographer you would like to work with?

I would love to work with Steven Klein and Paolo Roversi. I like the styles and images they create. There is something special about them.

What’s your favourite item of clothing?

I always wear my cross. I got it from my mum when I was a kid so it’s really special and I like to keep it with me.

What couldn’t you live without?

My iPod. I can’t live without music!

What’s been your favourite fashion moment so far?

Your first job is always pretty special. Mine was a show at New York fashion week for BCBG Max Azria. It was great being backstage with all the top girls. I just kept staring at everyone!

Photographer David Adams
Fashion Editor and words Francesca Prudente
Hair Lotte O’Shea using BUMBLE & BUMBLE
Make up Bobana Parojcic using M.A.C
Model Anastasija Kondratjeva at ELITE
Main image Anastasija wears leather jacket by MOSCHINO
Three images Anastasija wears patterned jumper by JONATHAN SAUNDERS

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How did you become a model?

I was at a party in Antwerp and someone from New Models came up to me and asked if I was interested in modelling. I had never really thought about it but thought I may as well give it a go. I went and saw everybody in the agency and was signed. It’s crazy because if I hadn’t been at that party at that moment, my life would be totally different. I got pretty lucky. I’ve now been modelling for a year and a half.

What were you doing before modelling?

Finishing high school. I was supposed to go to university to study history. I didn’t have any idea what I wanted to do after that. When my agency sent me to Paris, I got signed to Success. They asked me if I wanted to take a year off and try doing modelling full time and I decided to go for it.

What shows did you walk in last season?

Quiet a few. In New York I did Marc by Marc, which I was exclusive for in February and walked for again in September. I also walked for Lanvin and John Galliano. Galliano was a really energetic show and lots of fun. My first shows were definitely highlights. I did Costume National in Milan and Comme Des Garcons and Rick Owens in Paris.

Do you have a particular photographer you’d like to work with?

It was a great honour to shoot with Steven Meisel. I would love to shoot with him again. I would like to work with Terry Richardson, too – I’ve been optioned for things with him but unfortunately haven’t done anything get.

What type of music do you like?

It depends on the situation and mood I’m in. I like old hip-hop. Like old skool 90s NWA, Nas, Ice Cube and loads of others. My Dad also got me into music like The Doors, Frank Zappa and Janis Joplin.

What’s your favourite film?

The two movies I’ve watched twenty times or more are Pulp Fiction and Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas.

What’s been your favourite fashion moment so far?

My first highlight was flying to New York to work exclusively for Marc Jacobs. I had never been to New York before. I couldn’t stay there long because I had a shoot the next day in London, but when I first got there it completely blew me away. My second highlight has to be shooting the Lanvin campaign.

We were playing a video game on Xbox – we weren’t given any formal dance moves to do! We were just playing the game and they filmed us, it got very competitive! When it came out I read a lot of the YouTube comments and a lot of people recognised the dance moves from the game.

What would you like to do in the future?

I’m doing shows in Paris and Milan in January. This year has definitely been the fastest of my life. I’m having all these great experiences – it’s flown by. I’m having so much fun, the more dancing the better!

Photographer David Adams
Fashion Editor and Words Francesca Prudente

Portrait: Block stripe ripple knit jumper by JONATHAN SAUNDERS, grey cotton t-shirt by AMERICAN APPAREL Three images: Oxblood silk overshirt by PAUL SMITH, blue cotton t-shirt by AMERICAN APPAREL, black hoodie & leather jacket MILO’S OWN.

Grooming Bobana Parojcic using M.A.C COSMETICS Model Milo Spijkers at D1 MODELS

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