James Long Archives | Wonderland

Walk The Line

Wonderland Staff — Tue, 13 Oct 2015 09:40:07 +0000

We trace the 10-year history of one of London menswear’s most nurturing and on-point initiatives; Lulu Kennedy’s MAN.

From the 10th Birthday Issue of Wonderland.

Martine Rose

Lulu Kennedy is a force to be reckoned with. The founder of both the Fashion East and MAN initiatives, Kennedy has been championing emerging British designers for over 15 years, carving a path that prides independence within the fashion landscape. Bringing the underground to the forefront of the industry and celebrating the youths shaping the future, Fashion East has seen Kennedy pioneer the likes of Marques’Almeida, Martine Rose, Gareth Pugh, Roksanda Ilincic and Louise Gray. This year Fashion East’s younger male counterpart MAN turns 10 and Kim Jones,
J W Anderson, Astrid Andersen, Christopher Shannon, Benjamin Kirchhoff and New Power Studio amongst others, can all count themselves part of Kennedy’s fast-expanding MAN gang.

Born in Newcastle and raised in Devon, Kennedy spent her youth working at art galleries and organising raves (a few years were spent living in Naples doing just that), before landing a job at the Old Truman Brewery straight out of college in 1996. “I basically ran wild as a kid and as a teenager, so I was never going to be much use at a ‘normal’ job,” quips Kennedy. “Being surrounded by creative people kind of puts you in an alternative mindset too. My heroes were usually people in my family or close friends rather than distant celebrities, which gave me the feeling that anything is possible.” Kennedy is right. Tasked with turning the then derelict 11-acre warehouse into a creative hub for east London’s designers, artists, photographers and all-round visionaries, rather than spending her time overseeing extensive restorations, Kennedy was loaning runway space to emerging designers and renting out cheap studio space to friends in similar industries. “I suppose in a way you could say my ‘career’ – I feel funny saying that word – started at the Bricklayers Arms, when I met Hazel and Pablo of House of Jazz,” recalls Kennedy. “They were the first designers I’d ever known, and became a massive inspiration to me.” It was shortly after that that Kennedy turned her show-space favours into the Fashion East platform, and luckily the owner of The Truman Brewery hopped on board to bankroll it.“I jumped in headfirst – quite unaware of the politics of the industry – with a desire to help look after designers, and the rest kind of looked after itself,” says Kennedy. “I’m very lucky I’ve ended up in fashion. I love what I do.”

Having already paved the way with Fashion East, which was becoming a mainstay on the London womenswear circuit, it was at a CSM MA show that Kennedy had a revelation. “The menswear students were so strong,” she recalls. “I was like, ‘Why aren’t we doing anything with these designers?’ They’re all going off to get jobs, which is great on one hand, but also a shame.” Realising that the talented designers in question needed a support system in order to reach their full potential, Kennedy approached Topman with a plan. “We were on the same page and they jumped at the idea when I went to talk to them,” says Kennedy. “We just clicked right away.”

At the time, Kennedy was inspired by the work of Kim Jones and Christoffer Lundman. Back then, Jones was sending silver-haired boys down an industrial metal runway wearing oversized trousers, strung in at the waist, teamed with deconstructed sweatshirts said to be inspired by “Russian Prisoners”, with what Tim Blanks referred to as “the energy of an 80s Body Map show”. Meanwhile, Lundman’s boys were clad in powder-blue denim co-ords and rich velvet garms with platform brogues. “They’re the main reason I got so into menswear, they’re really very excellent designers,” says Kennedy. “I also loved what Raf Simons and [Martin] Margiela were doing, but that was about all I knew or followed.” Openly admitting that her knowledge of menswear was “basically zero”, it was by attending college shows, speaking to lecturers or friends and generally scouring the London fashion scene, that Kennedy was able to scout out her cream of the crop – those with “intelligence, creativity, spirit, energy, humour”.

With the help of Topman, the debut MAN show held at the Atlantis Gallery next to The Truman Brewery in September 2005 featured Jones (who screened a fashion film by Will Davidson), Lundman and Topman Design (who showed under the umbrella for the first five seasons). “Everyone we wanted was there, it was buzzing, the reviews were good. I seem to remember it being quite boozy…” laughs Kennedy. “I had such an amazing sense of happiness that it went down so well.” The list of designers Kennedy has nurtured currently ranks at over 40. They’re more interested in pioneering their own label, she says, than getting a job. “My biggest fear [if it wasn’t for MAN] would have been being forced down a more commercial route in order to survive,” explains Astrid Andersen, one of Kennedy’s crop. “The opportunity to grow slowly allows you to truly build a brand, that’s otherwise very difficult and costly.”

Looking back on the decade, we really have seen it all. Remember the time New Power Studio sent models down the runway on a mobility scooter, wearing full-size bass drums as headwear and
a real life child – Roman – in favour of a backpack? “I think that was my highlight, just for sheer exposure,” says NPS’s Thom Murphy. “We had half a page in The Sun, and illustration of us
in Private Eye, and all the other usual cool mags. It was a special moment – totally terrifying as it could have all gone wrong, but we made it.” Meanwhile, we’ve witnessed Cassette Playa’s Carri Munden dance down the aisle hand-in-hand with Sonic the Hedgehog (kitted out in custom CP); Astrid Andersen lead a gang of gold-lipped-guys down the catwalk in velveteen tracksuits; and Agyness Deyn steal the show draped in Henry Holland’s studded leathers. The venues have spanned from the Old Truman Brewery and Holborn’s Old Sorting Office, to Topshop’s disused Eurostar station and everywhere between. Then when it comes to the after-parties, suitably wild affairs have seen Kennedy herself play barmaid and designers switch to DJs at Bethnal Green Working Men’s Club (whilst the real DJ was spotted serving himself generous helpings behind the bar). Elsewhere, as Kennedy blogged on her namesake site back in 2009, Katie Hillier whipped her heels off “leading the troops into full on dancefloor combat” at east London’s Bistrotheque.

The most recent showcase – June’s MAN Turns 10 anniversary event – saw Royal College of Art graduate Liam Hodges and Central Saint Martins-educated designer Rory Parnell-Mooney present their SS16 collections at Topman Design’s space during London Collections: Men. Having only been on the fashion week circuit as a standalone event – separate to women’s fashion week – since June 2012, it’s safe to say fashion’s fairy godmother Kennedy was the catalyst. Now she’s leading the way not just in London, but on a global stage, with New York hosting their first stand-alone men’s fashion week this summer. Kennedy is quick to shrug it off when I ask, “Did you ever expect to have such an influence?” “Nope,” she says. “I just feel my way through things; it felt right to start menswear, so that’s what I did, without overthinking it.” For Kennedy, acting on instinct has sure payed off. “It seems like the whole world is into supporting emerging talent all of a sudden.” She’s right, and why wouldn’t it be? The future is shaped from the bottom up. The rest of the world just isn’t able to kill it at Kennedy’s pace, that’s all.

“I don’t know where I would be without MAN… I wouldn’t trade my experience for the world.” Shaun Samson

J W ANDERSON

AGI & SAM

“We were part of something that felt so big. Very surreal.” Astrid Andersen

Christopher Shannon

Liam Hodges

Craig Green

“Lulu was full of energy, advice, encouragement and fun. She was a trailblazer – fixing, sorting, organising and laughing, always.” James Long

Photographer: Jesse Jenkins

Fashion: Madeleine Østlie

Words: Brooke McCord

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LCM: James Long SS16

Wonderland Staff — Sun, 14 Jun 2015 17:19:51 +0000

James Long takes us to rave in Brighton wearing ruffles and clashing psychedelic prints.

Louche 70s vibe

The soundtrack by Death in Vegas and Tori Amos set the scene of rock star dressing room for James Long’s SS16 collection as the first tousle-haired model emerged. Cotton chinoiserie paisley prints on ruffle shirts, waitcoats and clashing prints in psychedelic shades were worn easy over wide leg pants. “Unashamed” was a key word in this show – “I was looking at people who are so natural in their clothing, they think they’re blending in, but they’re totally not,” said Long of the collection. “There’s a real freedom to it”.

Sportswear

In a new spin on off duty footballer chic, long matched lightweight dinner jackets with track pants and extra short shorts. A vivid neon scribble deigned by James Davidson added a citrus zing, emblazoned onto sweaters and jogging bottoms. Yet there was a distinctly feminine flair to the pieces – gathering on the back, ribbon drawstrings and decorative knitwear meant this gym kit was no macho uniform.

Undone

Inspired by a trip to Brighton where clubbers emerged from all night raves, there was an undone structure, with cardigans worn open at the neck, a slashneck sweater unzipped to the elbow. Long length cardigans in vivid prints looked comfy, slung over clashing ensembles. A patchwork coat with frayed edging an unfettered statement. Rock star, footballer, raver – whatever life this new age aristocrat leads, we want in on that self-imposed modern uniform that millions wear every day – namely, workwear – and made us all wish we worked in an office. Slender models with the blank stare of the desktop drone moved monotonously to Savages’ words: “don’t let the fuckers get you down, don’t let them wonder why you frown”. Wide and double-breasted jackets were worn with cropped pants. Short-sleeved tunics were shown over white shirts and ties, a staple which underpinned many of the looks.

Words: Rena Niamh Smith

Photographer: Thurstan Redding

Hair: Fudge Professional

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Backstage LCM: James Long AW15

Wonderland Staff — Sun, 11 Jan 2015 21:25:57 +0000

Hoods up and hair hung loose, James Long’s band of brothers stomped down the catwalk channeling elevated functionality.

What?

Last season James Long looked to Ibiza hedonism for inspiration, telling the story of a fallen boxer, but this season it was all about glamour and elevated functionality. “Everything we looked at, we wanted to say that you know, it’s not just a biker jacket. It’s that juxtaposition of glamour and on-the-edge that I always love,” says Long.

Who?

Hoods up and hair hung loose shadowing the face, this season James’ boys were broody, dark and mysterious. His band of brothers stomped down the catwalk in belted shearling outerwear, luxurious leather, lace appliquéd three stripe track pants, illustrated jersey (by James Davidson), hooded black capes and patchwork jeans to a remix of Fufanu – ‘Circus Life’ by Simon Milner of ITS TROPICAL.

Where?

With robe-like furs, oversized suede pocketed aviator jackets, motorcycle worthy leathers, raw stitched knitwear and distressed and customised denim all making an appearance for AW15, where wouldn’t we wear it?

Want?

A two piece lace embellished herringbone jersey tracksuit. Ultimate lounge luxury by Long.

Words: Brooke McCord.

Photography: Amy Beasley.

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James Long × River Island

Wonderland Staff — Wed, 19 Nov 2014 09:39:01 +0000

James Long will join River Island’s Design Forum alumni next season with a kaleidoscopic coloured collection.

From February next year James Long’s vivid and textured collection will be available in River Island stores all over the country. Priced between £28 and £90 this is a chance for anyone to buy a piece by this exciting emerging designer. With a key aesthetic of denim, leather and prints the 10-part line also features touches of PVC, nylon as well as hot pink piping on just about everything.

The focus piece of the collection is a bomber with removable sleeves that will transcend seasons. If you’re a fashion introvert (shame on you), but you still want a piece of the action, you can interject a hint of Long’s style into your daily look with a pair of sunglasses or a rucksack. This range is a chance for those most comfortable in streetwear to step out of their usual co-ords comfort zone and into Long’s world of hand-drawn designs and bold geometric prints.

Having already caught the eyes of creative directors and fashion directors this is James Long’s chance to make his name as those championed by River Island’s Design Forum have before him. By making the collection more accessible to high street customers without compromising on his own distinctive ideals, Long’s line is certain to fly off shelves.

Words: Lily Walker.

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LCM: James Long SS15

Wonderland Staff — Tue, 17 Jun 2014 10:47:36 +0000

James Long meshed a plethora of conflicting ideas to create a SS15 collection, which he has described as having a “sports Jesus aesthetic”

James Long’s SS14 collection – which features boxing shorts, sheer mesh and laid back stripes – tells the story of a retired ring fighter who has embraced the island life of Ibiza with ghetto influences thrown in for good measure. So far, so eccentric.

The collection – which features boxing shorts, sheer mesh and laid back stripes – tells the story of a retired ring fighter who has embraced the island life of Ibiza with ghetto influences thrown in for good measure. So far, so eccentric.

The collection mirrors the strong, directional menswear that James Long has become renowned for, with a minor departure from leatherwork which has dominated past shows. A slightly softer aesthetic was instead created with multi-coloured bubble quilting, which invoked the island loving hippie lifestyle of James’ sartorial character and retro sportswear inspired jumpers, while models wore metallic lanyards around their necks, which could be mistaken for festival VIP access.

Denim was frayed and distressed with elasticated waistbands, whilst colourful and distorted James Long logos emblazoned grey boxing shorts. Models wore sliders with block colour socks, whist their hair was left long in Hanson-esque centre partings perhaps as a homage to the Messiah. The colour palette was understandably eclectic but primary colours reigned supreme, with a bold pillar-box red dominating.

Metallic fabrics perforated the collection, with a crushed silver jacket reflecting the lights of the catwalk and providing an unexpected standout moment. The bomber jacket shape championed by Long in his AW14 collection made another strong appearance in a variety of guises. A rich navy satin bomber competed with a hessian inspired multi-coloured version which perfectly fused the hippie meets athlete aesthetic.

While the brief seems to amalgamate a variety of clashing visions, Long manages to weave them together to create a cohesive collection with a clear theme which is readable in every look.

Long live sports Jesus!

Words: Josie Ayre

Photography: Amy Beasley

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LONDON COLLECTIONS: Backstage at James Long AW13

Wonderland Staff — Wed, 09 Jan 2013 12:37:55 +0000

“I prefer to call myself pube-king.” That’s one missive from John Waters, the king of bad taste, and official inspiration source for John Long‘s AW13 collection. We review the schlock factor here.

When a show counts gross-out film maestro John Waters as one of its source inspirations, you know you’re in for something special. Like Waters, James Long is one of those designers who isn’t afraid of the unusual – if you needed any doubt, just check out his collection of rubberised pleated trousers.

If you’re a knitwear fan like us, you’ll probably be keeping a lust list of LCM jumpers (Richard Nicoll’s aqua pullover, for instance). So all hail the new king of our list: Long’s flamingo appliqué jumper, its Tiki Tiki Lounge ridiculousness kept in check by the muted military green. For those less willing to wear a full-on caricature of drag icon Divine on their chest, there’s the cropped bombers with their densely woven tapestry knit. Like John Waters, it might all be a little too out there for some – but there’s plenty of pickings for the more discerning fan here.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Backstage at MAN: Astrid Anderson, Craig Green and Agi & Sam
Backstage at Richard Nicoll
Backstage at Topman Design
Backstage at Christopher Shannon
Backstage at JW Anderson
Backstage at Jonathan Saunders
Backstage at Shaun Samson

Text: Zing Tsjeng
Images: Hatnim Lee and Mark Rabadan

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WONDERLUST: Alex Dunstan

Wonderland Staff — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:29:37 +0000

This week, Alex Dunstan from Select Model Management came and charmed us…

How and when did you become a model?

It was at London Bridge when I was 16 or 17 years old. I went to buy some fags when a woman said I was beautiful. I thought it was just a chat up line but then she asked if I considered modelling. She managed to track me down a few months later and signed me.

What were you doing before modelling?

I was at college studying chemistry, biology, physics and psychology. I wanted to do something in bio chemistry/ toxicology. I’ve started going through stuff again in my spare time so I can do a new course to finish my studies.

What do you like to do when you’re not modelling?

Spending time with my girlfriend, doing tae kwon do and hanging out with my friends

What type of music do you like?

Anything to be honest. Into my soul and old stuff, like Eric Clapton.

What’s your favourite film?

True Romance is one of my favourites, it’s absolutely amazing.

What shows did you walk in last season?

Dior, Galliano, Thom Browne…. I did six shows in Milan and six in Paris.

Where has been your favourite place you’ve travelled to?

I spent a few months in Tokyo which was such a good experience. It was the biggest cultural difference I’ve had. I also liked Stockholm.

What’s your favourite place to hang out in London?

China Town. I like the restaurants which I’ve been going to since I was a kid. I grew up in south London so east Dulwich is also where I like to hang out.

What’s been your favourite fashion moment so far?

The Lanvin Gold fragrance campaign was the biggest job I’ve done. I also love working with James Long – I always wear his clothes, as far as I’m concerned he does the best jackets. The most fun I have ever had was in New York on a shoot with photographer John Tan. It was a little editorial at the back of a bar. There was only three of us: me, him and the stylist. We spent all day drinking Bloody Marys, smoking and shooting. It really was the most fun I’ve had on a shoot.

What would you like to do in the future?

I will do this as long as the work keeps coming in. My aim is to invest some of the money and get a flat or house. I also want to set some other things up so if I do finish doing this I have something to fall back on.

Photographer David Adams
Fashion Editor and words Francesca Prudente
Photographic assistance Nicolo Terraneo
Hair Lotte O’Shea using L’OREAL
Make up Bobana Parojcic using M.A.C
Model Alex Dunston at SELECT MODEL MANAGEMENT
Portrait: black leather jacket ALEX’S OWN by JAMES LONG, patterned shirt by JAMES LONG, navy jumper ALEX’S OWN Three images: patterned shirt by JAMES LONG, navy jumper ALEX’S OWN

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London Fashion Week – JAMES LONG

Wonderland Staff — Thu, 23 Feb 2012 13:49:22 +0000

As London Fashion Week drew to a close yesterday, we set up camp at James Long’s show and gazed longingly at his cotton-clad collection for AW12. Take a look at the side-stage and audience shots we came back with.

All images by Hatnim Lee

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Designer Interview: James Long

Wonderland Staff — Thu, 08 Dec 2011 10:19:51 +0000

We pin down James Long, a designer who made his name under Virginia Wates in New York City. Starting his own label after graduating from the Royal College of Art, Long has since developed a distinctive brand, which he has described as “strong, bold directional menswear.”

Who: James Long
Label: James Long
How did your fashion career start: Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East Man show.
What are you most excited about at the moment: Kamodo dragons and John
Maus.
Do you have a daily uniform: I love to wear a cozy cashmere jumper, a
sparkly sock and my moscot sunglasses.
Who is your right hand wo/man: Charlotte Long my sister and Samantha
Twyford – I have two right arms.
What could you not live without: Friends, documentaries about animals,
and New York.
If you hadn’t become a designer what do you think you’d be doing now? I’m not sure what else I would do, but it would be somewhere warm and sunny.

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