Back in the minimalistic interior of the Rambert Dance Company’s Southbank home, Margaret Howell’s Sunday morning show lived up to its traditionally relaxed reputation, serving as a much appreciated respite from the general hubbub of Fashion Week. For SS18, Howell once again takes inspiration from the playground however, this season, sees a consideration of both student and teacher with a collection that pairs girlish shapes and schoolboy shorts with elegant pleats, pinstripes, and ultra-high waistbands.
Return to Moonrise Kingdom
There was an indisputable sense of Wes Anderson’s influence in the air during Howell’s show. Whether it was the wisps of loose baby hair, the oversized collars and neckties, or the whimsical tones of Noir Désir’s “Le Vent Nous Portera” playing in the background, the collection certainly brought the wardrobes of Suzy Bishop and Sam Shakusky from Moonrise Kingdom to mind. As usual, Howell maintained her trademark effortlessness by ensuring that every playful quirk was met with sleek tailoring and a neutral colour palette.
Speaking of colour, the designer’s typical use of navy, white, and grey predictably formed the basis of the designer’s vision; it wouldn’t be a Margaret Howell show if it didn’t. However, worked into the collection were a series of Howell’s signature accents that took the form of neckties in shades of lime, mustard yellow, and blue, and a repeated pair of bright green socks that captured the attention of all.