Homecoming

While the accompanying press release was keen to offer some context on the brand’s London arrival – previously showing in Milan, the Ports 1961 womenswear studio is based in the city while Creative Director Natasa Cagali, alongside much of her team, studied under the late Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins – ideas of the physical home informed much of the new collection: “Home is interpreted as a place of safety, which allows one to be comfortable enough to experiment, relax and express personality,” explained said notes.

A Chic Affair

Experimentation (think screen prints and layered waistbands) and crimping irons aside, the looks that strode past reached prime levels of chic as high quality fabrics and understated leather boots offset the former and ensured subtlety ruled. A clean palette that focused on black and white, neutral and primary shades likewise translated Cagali’s vision in a way that married the contemporary with a sense of maturity, all the while inviting a closer look. Oversized sequins and knitted applique similarly made their mark without overpowering proceedings.

The Deepest Cut

Few labels could get away with slicing their clothes without it automatically being seen as a reference to punk, but for AW17 Ports 1961 managed this and much more. Again, subtle details ensured the vibe remained clean – a place for frayed hems this was not. Instead asymmetric shoulders neighboured suits that bore cutaway sections around the waist and armpit, while shirting was opened horizontally above the chest. Alluring without an ounce of tacky? The dream.