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Spring Summer Serra Spencer

Taking inspiration from Richard Serra’s minimalist sculpture, the ‘Harmonious Discord’ collection played on old and new shapes, layering of mixed fabrics and clashing fabrics. The discordant details were all united in the earthy colour scheme of leaf green and aubergine all topped off with accents of terracotta and slate blue.

Off Duty Apparel

Voluminous shapes and functional accessories made Spencer’s men look like they were about to get away for a while. Relaxed was the word of the day despite it being apparent that the Oliver Spencer man is never not thinking about style. Cravats made suits look suave over smart, upturned arched collars made coats seem more than just a dull day’s necessity while reversed zips were a Spencer stamp on luxury daywear.

In Bloom

Prints ranged from checks to stripes but camera shutters starting clicking at the sight of the silken floral shirt and trousers. The oversized blooms were a welcome contrast to the block colourings and aligned perfectly with the warm natural colouring of the collection.

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The new store on Calvert Avenue will showcase both Oliver Spencer AW14 clothing and oak furniture from Another Country. Creating a unique shopping experience for customers, the store is fitted with blonde oak tables and shelves, all made and hand-finished in England to make you feel at home. This is the beginning of what should be a long-term partnership between two like-minded and truly great British brands. The collision of the two brands has created an ultimately industrial and modern feel in-store without feeling clinical, the shop still retains a warmth about it.

Oliver himself is overjoyed with the location and finish, “We love Calvert Avenue, it’s the nicest street in London’s East end. For me it was a question of finding a beautiful store on this street; one came up, so we jumped at the chance! We knew all along that the brand was suited to this neighbourhood, as there are plenty of our customers that live and work in that part of town. A like-minded British brand; they craft wood in such a beautiful way. The proportions matched perfectly with what we wanted to achieve within the stores’ interior.”

The latest Oliver Spencer menswear collection is available to purchase in the new and fourth store, as well as footwear, eyewear and accessories.

Words: Lily Walker

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What was it that first made you want to get into fashion and designing?

Some people put clothing on and they don’t really notice why they’re wearing it, but I’ve always been into fashion and paid attention to what I’m wearing. I put clothes on, and I don’t necessarily spend a lot of time thinking about it, but I always wonder what I’m doing with it, what’s its functionality…

The collaboration with Saint is a celebration of the “Best of British”. Why is the homegrown link so important to you?

I’m really behind manufacturing in Britain, so anything I can produce here I will produce here. More than half the line is made in Britain, and that’s important to me.

How long did it take before you felt like you’d made it in the fashion world?

A long time! I opened my first store when I was 22, and it’s been a really long slog, but opening on Soho’s been great: it’s nice to be on home turf.

And why did you decide to extend the brand to womenswear?

My feeling was that there was a bit of a gap in the market for more androgynous kinds of pieces, and so I’ve just slowly moved into that. I actually employed a womenswear designer about a year ago – I was producing clothing that was too male!

What has been your proudest fashion moment to date?

My last show at London Fashion Week (autumn/winter 2012/13). I didn’t really think I could do a venue like that – it was a big venue (Courtyard Show Space, Somerset House).

So who would your ideal client be?

We’ve had all types of people in our various stores over the years. I’m here for the customers, and it will be like that forever. Essentially, if anyone asks me what I do, I’m a shopkeeper. It’s what we do: keep shop. So, no, I don’t really have an ideal client so to speak. But I do have a guy in mind who knows about clothing; he’d mix us up with other brands as well, and he’s probably going to have been shopping with us for quite a while. Building a base is really important, it just takes time…

What are your directions for the future?

I’ve got quite a few future projects going on, mostly to do with colour: colour blocking and bright, faded colours. There’s quite a lot of that going on. Spring/Summer’s a bit of a nightmare at the moment, and we’ve got to have it ready by 15th June, but, anyway, we’ll get there…

Words: Samantha Southern
Photos from Oliver Spencer’s London Fashion Week show: Hatnim Lee

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All photos: Hatnim Lee

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