Hatnim Lee Archives | Wonderland

London Collections: Burberry Menswear SS14

Wonderland Staff — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 10:06:23 +0000

Burberry makes its London comeback with Christopher Bailey’s new, relaxed take on English style.

Christopher Bailey returned to London in that most quintessentially English of settings: the garden party. Or at least, a garden party marquee in Kensington Gardens. The inspirations, too, were quintessentially English: the vivid, zingy colours by way of David Hockney and the clothes – a looser, boho take on British preppiness – courtesy of Alan Bennett.

David Gandy, Tinie Tempah, Douglas Booth and Hugh Dancy eyed up the offering from the front row – you can imagine that this collection is the kind of thing you’d see them wear, and wear, and wear. Bailey’s was a relaxed, slouchier approach than previous seasons – not so much the cosmopolitan trench-clad Londoner as the English schoolboy gone on a trip to the seaside, though obviously clad in luxurious cashmere, silk and linen.

There were weatherproof cagoules, sou’westers (peaked sailing hats) and soft leather swim bags and duffles slung casually across the models’ shoulders. Gingham, florals and two-toned boaters all provided requisite pops of colour, with the chunky, rectangular sunglasses adding an extra touch (in true Burberry 2.0 style, the latter was available to order from the Burberry website after the show). All in all, a graceful return to the London stage.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Topman Design colelction review
Backstage at Astrid Andersen
Backstage at MAN: Bobby Abley, Alan Taylor and Craig Green
Backstage at Lee Roach
Backstage at Richard Nicoll
Lou Dalton collection review
Backstage at Agi & Sam
JW Anderson collection review
Backstage at Katie Eary
Backstage at Sibling
Fashion East showcase review: Kit Neale, Joseph Turvey, Liam Hodges, Marques’ Almeida and Tom Ryling
Backstage at Christopher Shannon

Words: Zing Tsjeng (Follow Zing on Twitter @misszing)
Images: Hatnim Lee

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London Collections: Backstage at Christopher Shannon SS14

Wonderland Staff — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 09:25:07 +0000

Christopher Shannon explores his teenage clubbing memories of Liverpool, with surprising – and surprisingly pleasing – results.

Christopher Shannon went old school 90s fabulous with a club classics-inspired collection that we can’t wait to wear next spring. PVC rainbow plastic shorts, glitter hair and a palette of pink, acid green, yellow and orange were the mainstays, and the retro-inspired collaboration with Liberty saw floral boxers get tucked into shirts and matching shorts.

But the devil was certainly in the detail with this collection. After all, why rely on your outfit to do the talking when your hair can too? Models literally shone in sparkly shades of red, lilac, turquoise and blue hairspray, and each and every guest was gifted with their own DIY hair kit by Fudge on their seat.

On the whole, the outlook for the SS14 Christopher Shannon man is acid sportswear. Sorry, Christopher, we know the look is totally up north but we’re nicking this for London, too.

Words: Sophie Haslett (Follow Sophie on Twitter @SophieHasletXX)
Images: Hatnim Lee

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London Collections: Fashion East SS14

Wonderland Staff — Wed, 19 Jun 2013 00:27:35 +0000

We gawp at the Fashion East talent assembled for spring/summer 2014, including Kit Neale, Joseph Turvey, Liam Hodges, Marques’ Almeida and Tom Ryling.

British fashion would be a far duller place without its fairy godmother, Lulu Kennedy. Under her tenure, Fashion East has grown into the undisputed place to spot emerging talent – and this year proved no different. In particular, Kit Neale (above) and Joseph Turvey build on their reputations following their AW13 presentations while RCA grad Liam Hodges (only three weeks fresh from graduation) makes a splashy debut.

KIT NEALE SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Neale’s planted his installations everywhere from garden allotments to greasy spoon cafes – but this season, he went for a more minimal approach: models perched on white blocks that spelled out ‘KIT NEALE’. Make no mistake about it, though, Neale’s still one of the most colourful young designers on the Fashion East roster (the collection’s called ‘Whammy!’ for a reason): his Peckham Riviera print, as seen on trousers and jackets, is a delightful take on children’s traffic rugs, while his more abstract patterns are no less lively and bamboozling. And let us know where the queue starts for that Perfectly Fried Chicken jumper, okay?

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JOSEPH TURVEY SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Turvey returns for his second Fashion East presentation, this time drawing inspiration from NASCAR driver Ethel Mobley and her family of speed fanatics (racing pioneer Tim Flock being one of them). The need for speed is writ large in big, scream-if-you-wanna-go-faster strips of block colour, but occasionally shows in the most charmingly unexpected details. Look out for Tim Flock’s pet monkey, Jocko Flocko, making an illustrated appearance on the side of a quilted gilet. With tailored joggers, quilted jackets and a subtle use of mesh cut-outs and floral print, it’s a sophisticated, soft take on Turvey’s signature sportswear.

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LIAM HODGES SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Morris dancers are perhaps the least cool of any British subculture ever, and recent RCA graduate Liam Hodges still manages to make them look sexy and dangerous. The models in his ‘Morris Nomads’ collection, shod in Nike slip-ons, looked like Amish boys gone wrong – all black, white and squat party chic. Featuring leather waistcoats distressed to resemble black denim and the now-ubiquitous basketball short, it’s a tough, masculine capsule collection that’s not afraid of graphic and bold silhouettes. When asked if he could imagine “boys” wearing this, one model replied, “Actually, we’re more like lads.” Sounds about right to us. We’ll be keeping an eye on Hodges.

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MARQUES’ ALMEIDA SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Boy, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have come a long way since NEWGEN. Yesterday, they debuted their first-ever men’s collection, created in collaboration with Opening Ceremony. Denim in the deepest blues and indigos was the order of the day, with raw hems and a loose, grunge-y silhouette. But the standout piece was unquestionably the hide biker jacket with contrast sleeves, which was ever-so-slightly iridescent under light: expect this one to fly off the OC shelves.

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TOM RYLING SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Next to Liam Hodges’ scruffy band of brothers, Tom Ryling’s models looked more like a boy band: all scrubbed faces, cheekbones and clean lines. Inspired by childhood holidays on the English seaside, Ryling provided an interesting, considered take on classic pieces: painted denim re-purposed from his adolescent archive, attractive jumpers in a burlap texture.

Words: Zing Tsjeng (Follow Zing on Twitter @misszing)
Images: Hatnim Lee

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London Collections: Katie Eary SS14

Wonderland Staff — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:53:11 +0000

Katie Eary’s ‘flamingo massacre’ collection was a highlight of the Monday LC:M shows. And we want a leopard print skateboard.

What’s the must have accessory for SS14? Katie Eary’s pink and black leopard print skateboards. To be worn with the young starlet’s crazy cool ‘flamingo massacre’ collection if you dare. Today’s offering from Eary was perhaps her best yet. Last season’s fuchsias and purples morphed into red and pink clashing hues, and male and female models sashayed down the catwalk in flamingo and leopard print, swimwear and highlighter-bright Nikes.

The show was certainly a favourite among the LC:M crowds. Reggie Yates, the ubiquitous David Gandy and Tinie Tempah looked dapper on the front row, while bloggers, photographers and journalists stood and craned their necks to get a glimpse (or a Vine) of the unisex spring/summer action.

The biggest cheer of the day, however, was reserved for Ms Eary herself, who dashed out and sprinted down the runway at the close of the show, all dip-dyed pink hair and fizzing energy. This is a woman at the height of her powers. She plays the menswear scene at their own game and nails it every time. Total girl crush.

Words: Sophie Haslett (Follow Sophie on Twitter @SophieHaslettXX)
Images: Hatnim Lee

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London Collections: Backstage at Lee Roach SS14

Wonderland Staff — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:33:24 +0000

Fans of Lee Roach’s lean chic will be pleased with an SS14 collection that features nudes, neutrals and whey-faced models.

No show notes. Hm, unusual. But refreshing and definitely a good thing in a Lee Roach collection that was marked for its simplicity and utilitarian cleanness rather than its daring and pizzazz. These were practical, minimalist clothes for the modern man, and Roach made heavy use of the dark and neutral palette that has put him on the menswear map.

Loose-fitting canvas cottons, navy with black and linen-cloth style tabards formed the basis of an spring/summer collection that was curiously peppered with desert camo-patterns and black spots. The standout look was a pair of navy trousers, a black tee and bomber-style leather jacket. It will certainly please fans of Roach’s stark austerity aesthetic in any case.

Many of last season’s looks were re-worked in this year’s slick SS14 collection. Round-neck collarless jackets, slim trousers and blazers all again featured, and the clothes were broken up with judo belts and cute leather slippers. “Love the print blazer. Just when you thought they couldn’t invent another camo, here’s Lee,” said front row main man Tinie Tempah. We hear you, Tinie. And it’s a pretty neat way of throwing a fashion curved ball.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Topman Design
Backstage at Astrid Andersen
Backstage at MAN: Bobby Abley, Alan Taylor and Craig Green

Words: Sophie Haslett
Images: Hatnim Lee

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London Collections: Backstage at Bobby Abley, Alan Taylor and Craig Green SS14

Wonderland Staff — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:53:17 +0000

The MAN show presented its usual eclectic mix of creativity and ideas with debuts from Bobby Abley and Alan Taylor and a second outing for the bonkers Craig Green.

You can always count on the designers chosen for the MAN show to push the boundaries of creativity and draw a huge crowd. And yesterday was no different, with stellar offerings from Bobby Abley, Dublin-born Alan Taylor and the ever-theatrical Craig Green (remember last season’s redefinition of planking?).

First up was Bobby Abley. Part eye-popping Dalston Disneyland (see teddy bears, fleur de lis and tweety birds) and part Dora the Explorer (Teddy boy backpacks were the accessory of choice), the models wore leather crowns and hooded jackets as they stalked the Topman Show Space.

Next was Alan Taylor, whose collection was altogether more restrained and trad. Grey tweed pieces were mixed with deconstructed skinny tailoring and the omnipresent shorts of s/s14 were seen with daringly high slits and short-sleeved jackets. LCD Soundsystem provided the backdrop and Taylor’s clothes were the perfect warm-up for the final bonkers but brilliant offering from Craig Green.

Ah yes. Craig Green. What to say about Craig Green… Well, his masked models in tie-dye streetwear carrying 3-D cardboard constructions gained the biggest cheers from the day’s crowds. And despite last season’s slagging from the newly-announced Ambassador for British menswear David Gandy, Green’s clothes yesterday continued to surprise and delight the majority of the menswear circuit. So yes, everyone might have smiled when we saw the oversized tie-dye sculptures and the bandanas that pretty much obscured the models’ faces. But we’d also like to see this trend go mainstream. David Gandy, your move.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Topman Design
Backstage at Astrid Andersen

Words: Sophie Haslett
Images: Hatnim Lee

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London Collections: Topman Design SS14

Wonderland Staff — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 09:16:54 +0000

Post-punk London meets Nashville dorm rooms in Topman’s spring/summer ‘techno cowboy’ collection and sends us right back to the future. Giddy up.

‘This. Is. Techno. Cowboy.’ Giddy up and dig out your Stetson, kids, and welcome to Topman Design SS14. The opening look set the tone of the show: a white, silky Western-inspired shirt with black floral detailing and contrast piping paired with double pleated high-waisted trousers and metallic brogues and matching belts. What followed was a working and re-working of this theme. The flowers on the shirts segued into spiders and the silky white shirts soon became silky black bomber jackets.

Unusually for the spring/summer shows, the Topman collection didn’t include a single short. Design director Gordon Richardson said he wanted the collection to feel ‘glamorous’ and as part of that shorts were banned in favour of wide-legged trousers and the odd sleeveless gold gilet. ‘Topman is always about realism,’ he said. ‘We’re not here to do crazy designs.’

As a result of this, the line was something we can imagine on countless boys’ backs next spring. Whereas last season was all about block colour and alpine après-skiwear, SS14 was closer to a post-punk London clash with a Nashville dormitory. The whites and burgundies of AW13 were revisited, but the aesthetic was updated with decorated dinner jackets, retro sunglasses and pretty patterned jumpers. It was all very Topman, but it was also all very fabulous.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Backstage at Astrid Andersen

Words: Sophie Haslett
Images: Hatnim Lee

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Health Talk Their Third Album Sound and Tour Rituals

Wonderland Staff — Mon, 03 Jun 2013 10:50:23 +0000

We sit down with the laugh-til-you-piss rockers from Health to discuss rituals and their upcoming UK tour.

The noise- band rockers from the sunny hills of Los Angeles have been around the block, and are now bringing the heat to the UK with an European mini tour. We talk to these hilarious-as-fuck SoCal whippersnappers where we learn a thing or two about appropriate Facebook behaviour and the importance of tour rituals.

When is your new album coming out & what is it called?

Later this year. No name yet.

Is your new album more masculine or feminine?

Masculine.

What did you find most surprising while composing the score for video game, “Max Payne 3”?

It takes a really long time to score a video game.

What is your freakiest groupie story?

Our girlfriends reading our press.

Who is the “mother” in the band?

Jake, but he molests the kids.

Who is the fartiest member?

BJ.

Who gets laid the most?

John.

Who spends the most time in front of the mirror?

John.

What is the best remedy for constipation on tour?

Constipation? Every shit is an emergency on tour.

Who writes your Facebook statuses?

John and Jake.

Here are some prime examples:

“Get so fucking turned on when a girl tells me she’s not on Facebook.”

“Hotel bathrooms should have plungers in them. Don’t make me call to alert the stranger at the front desk that I’ve clogged the toilet with my shit.”

“Not to spoil the surprise for those watching the show, but I just finished the Game of Thrones books and it turns out that Bruce Willis was a ghost the whole fucking time.”

How do you feel your approach to music has changed or matured since starting Health?

Less arguing, more Ableton.

How is your new record different from your previous album, “Get Color?”

Very different. More bass.

Are there any rituals while on tour?

To pass the time driving we listen to the radio, and whenever someone in song says “you” we replace it with “Jup” (nickname for Jupiter) and anytime anyone says “me” we replace it with “Beej” (nickname for BJ). So every song is about a romance between Jup and Beej.

Is there a specific performance that stands out which had an impact on your career?

Primavera Sound Festival.

Who were you most starstruck by?

Danny DeVito.

How did you come up with the band name, Health?

Jake was a “medical historian” and we found all the other names were taken. He suggested HEALTH after many fruitless google searches.

You guys put on a very high energy show. How do you keep up that energy level when you’re tired on tour?

If people come to see you, you gotta give them the best you can — even if you feel shitty. But even if you’re tired, the tour is long stretches of boredom during the day, and a short burst of excitement at night. By showtime, you’re ready to go.

Health will be performing at Birthdays in London 3rd June.

Words: Hatnim Lee

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Knitwear designer Jylle Navarro talks London

Wonderland Staff — Mon, 20 May 2013 08:37:31 +0000

There are some designers that could have only emerged from London. Jylle Navarro is one of them.

Febrile, fertile London: the birthplace of many an eccentric designer or out-there fashion idea. Jylle Navarro, like many of her techno-coloured, rave-ready folk, exemplifies the capital’s best qualities when it comes to design: namely, its experimental, no-holds-barred approach and its willingness to get down and have a good time. We speak to the knitwear designer about the best city in the world.

How do you think London has defined you as a fashion designer?

I think with London it has both influenced my work as well as encouraged me to avoid the current trends and styles. With my larger more creative designs I don’t let it influence me but with pieces which I want people to buy and see as some they can wear themselves I try to think about what would work for them better.

Where do you go for inspiration?

For my inspiration I usually go with what I see is influencing people now in the world and then develop it into a more creative idea. At the moment I am very interested by Bowie. It’s a very good time for him and he fits in well with my latest collection which is heavily influenced by symbolic alien icons.

Who has been your favourite celebrity to dress or see your clothes on?

My favourite people to dress are McGaffE and My Bad Sister. These girls are amazingly talented and excellent performers.

Most played on your iTunes?

At the moment I’ve been listening to Bowie and Yeah Yeah Yeahs‘ new stuff. Some Amanda Palmer and Evil Cowards.

How did you become a fashion designer?

I wanted to be a fashion designer since I was young so I kept going in that direction however my personal style and knit influence has only come about in the last few years.

How do you construct all your pieces?

I mostly use a knit machine and hand sew together however I also do, knit, macrame and tassel by hand also. Depends on the piece.

There seems to be a lot of engineering and experimentation involved.

Yes. I like think the process I use works which is to not completely know what the finished product will look like. I tend to change my ideas for a final garment halfway though making it.

Tell me about how you get from concept to finished product?

I start by an influencing idea. I then put together whatever yarns and materials I can find that fits. I have an idea of what I want to make in my head so I start to make it but it usually develops very quickly. Once it’s knit I sew it together and add extras if needed.

What are your favourite places to eat, hang out, go dancing in London?

I’m a big Sink the Pink fan. Those girls know how to have a good time. And Cult Mountain is a cafe, shop and gallery. They have the best new designers and artists and the best coffee.

What is your favourite street in London?

Tough question. I really can’t think of a specific one. I just love all of London.

Next thing you think will influence your next collection.

I think I might got for a John Waters style freak and fetish collection.I’m thinking grown men in knitted baby bonnets.

What do you plan on doing in the future?

I plan on creating a new print collection, dressing more performers, setting up an online shop, collaborating with other designers, and making some short videos.

Words: Hatnim Lee
Images: Daniel Keys

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NICHOLAS K: Nicholas Kunz studio visit

Wonderland Staff — Tue, 05 Feb 2013 12:53:22 +0000

Nicholas K has become the last word in downtown New Yorker chic. Ahead of their New York Fashion Week show on Thursday, we visited the Nicholas K studio to speak to Nicholas Kunz, who runs the effortlessly cool label with her brother, Christopher.

The Arizona-born siblings founded Nicholas K in 2003. They just moved into their new office which has a view of the new world trade centre which is going up. Plus, they’ve got an adorable dog who comes to the shows and does the catwalk bow with them. Nicholas tells us more.

If you weren’t a fashion designer now, what would you be doing? Photojournalist.

Who are your favourite fashion designers? Haider Ackermann. He has a strong point of view and I would wear most everything in his collection.

What’s it like having a sibling as a business and creative partner? It’s like going home for the holidays everyday… Intense at times, but comforting.

What’s your favourite trend of 2013? Sneaker wedges, they seem to be making a lasting impression.

How do other people describe your work? “Urban nomad”. I would say that’s close. We strive to create a balance between nature and city life.

Where do you shop? Vintage or antique stores, eBay, and Etsy.

What would your advice be to someone who needs a makeover? Choose comfort over vanity, find colors that compliment your skin tone, and don’t get wrapped up in trends. Your wardrobe should be timeless.

Do you have any fashion rules? Don’t be confined by rules, but wear clothes that fit.

How do you pick the music for your runway shows? Lots of research. It’s important that you find music that compliments your inspiration for the season. Our Fall 2013 collection is inspired by Arctic exploration, so we’re researching haunting, chilling, dark sounds that evokes the feeling of icy landscapes.

Words and images: Hatnim Lee

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