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Talk us through your design process for the collection?

I had this portrait of Isabel de Valois, Consort of King Philip II of Spain. She is wearing the most amazing red coat dress. The research for the collection was a time hoping mission a magpie collection of bits I fancy -bringing in embroidery. futuristic fabrics, historical costume and putting them through a filter for what my AW16 girl would wear.

What were your inspirations behind the collection?

The starting point was a portrait of Isabel de Valois, consort of King Philip II of Spain (16th Century) and I imagined a time travelling girl that hoped and skipped from 16th Century Spain where she hung out with Isabel to the cult Dutch club Studio Paradiso and to the early 90’s where she met her football ‘casual’ boyfriend and then imagined her in the here and now and going to the future sweeping up the best bits of zeitgeist, from historical costume, to parkas, to football jersey and bicycle sip up tops – she makes it her own looking at embroidery’s, antique looking woven linens, psychedelic prints sporty jerseys and cloth that could be leather or could be satin.
Do you have a standout piece from this collection? Yes, one of our double jackets with sculptural sleeves inspired by a portrait of Isabel de Valois, consort of King Philip II of Spain – the challenge was to look at something really historical and hop and skip it to now and create something a but futuristic with it.

What songs or albums were being played the most in the studio while you were making the collection?

I am listening to a lot of Tame Impala, Young Fathers and BBC Radio 6.

How did you go about choosing the music for the show?

It’s one of the first things I think of when it comes to the show- to get the 16th century reference I wanted a track with the harpsichord – so The Strangler’s Golden Brown will make an appearance. Tame Impala opens with all it’s trippy, dreamy, positive energy surrealness! There is a snippet of Arab Strap – The First Big Weekend of The Summer – which sums up the real life my AW16 girl lives in. She lives life a bit fast and hard, Arab Strap’s Glasgow accent in the semi spoken word chorus brings so much atmosphere. Then there is so Jai Paul – Thirteen with a whopper bass line, because everyone likes a dark party track. I’ve steered clear of Kraftwerk- as perfect as it is for this time travelling ‘casual’ girl it is a bit too obvious in a fashion context. There is an Onra track and I think we are going to go with something bang up to date for the outro like – The Internet – Girl produced by Kaytranada.

Sum up the new collection in one sentence…

A time travelling girl- stopping off in King Phillipe’s 16th Century Pain, Studio Paradiso in Amersterdam in the early 80’s and the football terraces in the early 90’s.

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There’s no doubt that Warp are one of the world’s most daring record labels. Over the past 26 years, they’ve churned out a steady slew of game-changing artists – Nightmares On Wax, Aphex Twin, Jamie Lidell and Flying Lotus, to name a few – ultimately carving out a path for genre-bending vocalists such as their latest signing, Lafawndah, who is going to make the next year in music very interesting indeed.

In an era where Kylie, Kendall and Kim rule, finding a cool female figure to admire is like finding a rare gem. Lafawndah has power in her presence and in her beats – a curious new creature for us to obsess over on the Internet. In her video for NTS Live, the Iranian native dons a men’s white t-shirt, sculpted nails and hair piled on top of her head in thick braids. She exudes a feminine sensuality with her sweet high octane voice woven into hard basslines, all of her elements together creating energy, like a twisted R&B star.

In true Warp style, Lafawndah has a blatant disregard for anything middle-of-the-road and pieces together a visual identity and sound from everywhere she has ever lived or travelled. Be it Tehran, Paris, Zurich, Brooklyn or a remote Caribbean island, Zouk, hard dance and R&B intertwine in her 4-track EP, Tan, which is out on 5th February 2016. It appears that another game-changer has been added to the Warp family and we’re keeping our eyes on her next moves.

We stole a quick 60 seconds with Lafawndah, ahead of her release.  Before we begin, take a peek at the video for the first single, also called Tan.

Can you tell us about the name, where did it come from?

It was the name of my sex education teacher at school in Iran.

When did you first realise you wanted to make music?

When I covered Jamiroquai aged 13 in front of 500 people and it felt good.

What was the inspiration behind your new EP, Tan.

Walking down Langstrasse in Zurich, bombarded by music bursting from Mexican,  Serbian, Jamaican, Liberian, Korean and Russian clubs all at once and immediately later being thrust into the throb of Fire Island.

What inspires you to write?

Whales, metal, agave, courage, orgasms, pomegranates, razors, lips, raw fish, hackers, mushrooms, injustice, humming birds, islands, minds, tides, balls, walls.

You’ve just been signed to Warp, what was that process like?

Fluid.

Your musical influences like  Grace Jones, Lady Saw, Psychic TV, Kate Bush and Missy Elliot are all really eclectic, how do you think you translate them all into your music?

Freedom inspires me.

You describe yourself a conceptualist and a performer, talk to us about that.

Well, I do believe I can fly.

If you had to describe your sound in three words, what would they be?

Pelvic, boom and bone.

WORDS: Lizzy Nicholson

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SS16 reference, a photograph by Polly Brown.

Give us a sneak preview in three word… Balearic, easy, crude.

What’s been soundtracking your time in the studio this season? “Dirty Black Disco” mix tapes on NTS radio.

Are there any particular places that you have referenced this season? All summer holidays ever.

What were your main references for SS16? A hot car journey to a party, the photo here by Photographer Polly Brown sums it up.

What sort of details can we expect? Belts, paint, topstitch.

What’s your favourite piece from the collection? A rusty painted jacket.

Dirty Black Disco – 3rd May 2015 by Nts Radio on Mixcloud

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What’s inspired you for AW15?

For AW15 we’ve revisited our CMMN blueprint and brought back the element of fun, the print and bold colours and the technical sport details we are known for. AW15 is the juxtaposition of future sport and sartorial classic. The fine line between streetwear and high-end fashion is blurring and elements from both these worlds are always visible in our collections and in this season more than ever.

Are there any particular artists/design archives/cities that you’ve referenced in particular this season?

Manchester with its vibrant art and music scene has been a main source of inspiration this season. As home to arguably two of the best football teams in the world, inspiration from the sport will be visible throughout the collection.

What has been the soundtrack for this collection?

The roar of the crowd.

Who’s the ultimate pin up guy for AW15?

It’s got to be Sir Bobby Charlton, a Manchester United legend, a true gentleman and a Sir on top of that.

What sort details can we expect?

Bonded fabrics, engineered cuts and sports elements are visible throughout the collection. Soft wool overcoats have been bonded and given a special hand finished treatment. Our tailoring has been engineered and cut in new ways taking inspiration from sportswear.

Give us a sneak preview in three words…

Armani in Manchester.

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What has inspired you for AW15?

My Father, 1966 to 1969.

What or who in particular has been inspiring you this season?

Apollo 1, Virgil Ivan Grissom and Howard L Bingham.

What has been the soundtrack for this collection?

It changes from day to day, but I often press replay to each of the following throughout the working week.

Maniac – Michael Sembello

Lonely night – Richard Hawley

Ocean Rain – Echo and the Bunnymen

Immunity – John Hopkins

All my Tears ­– Ane Brun

Our Lips Are Sealed – Fun Boy Three

Who’s the ultimate pin up guy for AW15?

Same guy, just a different season, a different chapter in the Lou Dalton Biog…

How does AW15 compare to your last collection?

It’s still very much about control.

What sort of details can we expect?

Slim silhouettes with exposed volume.

Lastly, give us a sneak preview in three words…

Control, empowerment, construction.

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What has inspired you for AW15?

The KIT NEALE Men’s Autumn Winter 2015 collection takes inspiration from a trip to a traditional circus, with inspiration from the work of Fred G. Johnson, Schiaparelli’s 1938 Circus collection, as well an exploration of typography in posters and the travelling lifestyle of the circus.

Are there any particular artists that have influenced you in particular this season?

We’ve been looking at the work of Barney Bubble and Job Wouters – quite radical English graphic designers.

What has been the soundtrack for this collection?

‘Where’s your car Debbie’ by Slaves. Also Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds ‘The Carny’.

How does AW15 compare to your last collection?

AW15 is a good progression from SS15. It’s more graphic and less illustrative. Feels more tonal with lots of textures and as a whole some what tougher.

Give us a sneak preview in three words…

Font, Cows, Teddy-bears

@BrookeMcCord.

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