Photography from YOUTH HOTEL by Gosha Rubchinskiy 

If there’s one fashion related exhibition you should go to this year it’s Mad About The Boy at the Fashion Space Gallery located in the London College of Fashion. Curated by SHOWstudio’s editor, Lou Stoppard, it’s a group exhibition exploring fashion’s preoccupation with youth and, in particular, the way collections and images shape ideas of teenage boyhood. It will engage with the multitudinous incarnations of the young male that exist in fashion’s imagination – including the raver, the sexual fantasist and, of course, the rebel – all of which will be amplified by tableaux and environments specially designed by Tony Hornecker.

Interested? You should be. But when you hear who’s contributing you definitely will be: some of fashion’s greatest youth-centric designers and image makers are on board, including Raf Simons, Alasdair McLellan, Gosha Rubchinskiy, J.W. Anderson, Larry Clark, Christopher Shannon and Nasir Mazhar. Oh, and Nick Knight and Undercover. Yep, that’s a pretty all-star cast of creatives who are contributing everything from videos and photographs, to editorials, films and select looks from seminal collections. Subversive design duo Meadham Kirchhoff will even be re-staging their celebrated SS13 Menswear collection for the duration of the exhibition. Fittingly enough, Mad About The Boy opens on the first day of London Collections: Men (this Friday!), so you can really get your menswear fix. See you there!

Photography by Alasdair McLellan, ‘The Perfect Kiss’ (12 inch version)

Raf Simons SS16 (image courtesy of Raf Simons

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Pink Beaded Silk Bra by Meadham Kirchhoff, pink cotton pencil skirt by Christopher Kane and bracelets Lindsay’s own worn throughout.

The Mush Pit’s Bertie Brandes talks fashion fixes, beauty regimes and her brand new West End play David Mamet satire Speed-The-Plow with Tina Fey’s teen dream, Lindsay Lohan.

Taken from Wonderland September 2014:

She fits the bill pretty well doesn’t she? Wrapped in pink shearling, all freckles and the perfect pout. But as at home as Lindsay Lohan might be on the front of a magazine, there’s no question she’s got more going on than your average cover star. Since her days acting alongside herself in The Parent Trap, snogging Chad Michael Murray in Freaky Friday (eternally jealous) and playing Cady Heron in the ever-relevant Mean Girls, Lindsay has become something of an institution.

Predictably berated by the press for refusing to simply sit pretty, adored by fashion weeks and front rows the world over, and idolised by, well, us, Lohan rocketed into our hearts in an explosion of pre-teen movies and she never left. Ever since she taught Tyra Banks to love herself in Life Size, we knew she was on to something. A few days after her Wonderland shoot, we caught her on Jimmy Fallon having a bucket of ice tipped over her head wearing thigh-high leather boots which her publicist concurs were “probably Gucci”. Everything about Lohan is ridiculously glamorous and brilliant, and we’ve been hanging off her every word (outfit and, honestly, music video) since Hallie Parker pierced Annie’s ears with an apple and a needle way back in ‘98.

Luckily, we don’t have to dream of packing off to camp in order to feel close to Lohan anymore (it’s probably frowned upon for 24-year-olds to go anyway), this year she’s bringing Hollywood to us, by way of the Playhouse Theatre. Yep, Lohan’s set her sights on London (as if you didn’t already know) in order to play Karen in David Mamet’s brilliant Speed-The-Plow. Karen is a complex character, quick to be judged by the others yet slow to reveal her inner objective. There are obviously certain parallels, and Lohan’s eager to point them out. “This is a young girl who sets out for Hollywood and stumbles into something new, I can relate”. Speed-The-Plow seems to attract big names, the last time I saw it was at the Old Vic with Kevin Spacey and Jeff Goldblum. There’s something about how it both glamorises and undercuts Hollywood that must make it tantalising for anybody familiar with the industry. “I’ve been there, just in different ways” Lohan agrees, as though she’s ready to teach Karen a thing or two about dodgy producers. The role feels as though it was written with her in mind: a strong, determined woman hidden behind the façade of somebody perhaps a little out of her depth. Of Mamet, Lohan has nothing but praise: “He is a brilliant writer with so much conviction” and I suspect Mamet will be equally as enthralled. He’s not the only Mamet she’s keen on either, she’s a “big fan” of his daughter Zosia (AKA Shoshanna from Girls, AKA the virgin AKA the funniest one) too.

I wonder how terrifying it would be to walk out on stage and see father and daughter eagerly awaiting from the front row. Pretty terrifying I’d imagine, though nerves don’t seem to be a huge issue for Lohan, perhaps unsurprising for one of the most famous child stars on planet. Maybe nerves are a bit like puberty, totally hellish for a bit and then tossed to the back of your wardrobe like an old bra. “This is my life, it’s what I’ve known since I was three years old” explains Lohan – “It feeds my soul”. It’s easy to forget that she’s been dealing with the stress and exhaustion that accompanies her job for over two decades, and at the moment she seems revitalised by her new role. Every time Lohan threatens to give up acting for the quiet life, something draws her back in. In this case, it’s the brilliance of Mamet – but whatever it is, she consistently keeps her audience entranced. There is certainly something of those old Hollywood movie stars to her, something maddeningly compelling, and it’s no surprise that she cites Frances Farmer and Clara Bow as her dream roles.

I suppose, just like the legends of Hollywood must have known, when it comes to holding your nerve the trick is staying focused – something she doesn’t seem to have a problem with. I wonder (desperately hoping) if we’ll see her at London Fashion Week, but she’s not convinced. “I’m not sure, my only thoughts right now are on this play”. “Maybe on the weekend” she adds, though with a schedule as rigorous as the one she’s about to embark on, I’m not sure the once-notorious socialite will make it out far. Instead she’s prioritising “staying healthy, spiritual, happy and focused,” which all sounds rather grown-up and sensible. There’s no question fashion week will miss her if she decides to pass it up for a good sleep and a detox, though. Lohan styles herself most of the time, and she clearly knows her J-Brand from her Jeremy Scott. “Always Hermès” she replies when I ask what she loves to wear, which is amazing enough on its own, but is followed by “Karl Lagerfeld, Hedi Slimane, Miu Miu, Chloé and Harry Winston”. Yep, Rachel Zoe is probably quaking in her artfully distressed boots because here is an actress who clearly knows what she likes. She remembers the first time she felt like a million dollars as when she wore a “seven-carat cushion cut from Cartier” (which is a really, really, really sexy diamond for the uneducated among us) and confesses to having a wardrobe stuffed with “Isabel Marant, YSL and Chanel”. Her most hoarded item? “Leather jackets… or boots”. She’ll probably need a new pair of thigh-highs after Jimmy Fallon though, I think the last pair might be a bit soggy.

While she might be gearing up for one of the most rigorous acting experiences of her life, Lindsay’s not too busy to share beauty tips. “Sleep, drink water and meditate,” she advises. Oh, and “stay on a boat”, which might not be quite so easy when you live in north west London, but I suppose there’s always Camden Lock. For someone so comfortable on a red carpet, she certainly knows how to switch off, but maybe that’s natural when getting dressed up has been part of your job description for as long as you can remember. Not that she minds of course, I mean who would when they can say things like: “in The Parent Trap, I wore a specially made Chanel suit. I was 10.” And with that, the legend of Lindsay Lohan lives on.

Melon shearling double breasted coat by Gucci and pink wool dress by Marni.

Pink wool dress by Marni, pink silk scarf worn as belt by Prada and sunglasses by Miu Miu.

Black wool crepe jacket by Hermes.

Leopard print cashmere jumper by Sportmax.

White net top by Ryan Lo, pink beaded silk bra by Meadham Kirchhoff, vintage black silk knickers by Dolce & Gabbana, black leather thigh high boots by Fendi.

White net top by Ryan Lo, pink beaded silk bra as before, vintage black silk knickers by Dolce & Gabbana, black leather thigh high boots by Fendi.

Photographer: Alex Sainsbury

Fashion Editor: Danielle Emerson

Interview: The Mush Pit

Words: Bertie Brandes

Hair: Alex Brownsell at D+V using Bleach London

Make Up: Thom Walker using Dior

Manicurist: Ami Streets at LMC Worldwide using Chanel AW14 and Body Excellence Hand Cream.

Photography Assistance: Hugo Yanguela

Make Up Assistance: Lois Moorcroft

Hair Assistance: Nicole Kahlani

Fashion Assistance: Georgina Thomas, Olga Bilenchuk & Megan Blackburn

Set Design: Dale Oliver Slater

Set Design Assistance: Emily Barrett

Special thanks to loft studios.

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Black nylon bomber jacket with faux fur hood by APLHA INDUSTRIES, black and grey printed silk dress with leather detailed collar by SAINT LAURENT by HEIDI SLIMANE, white cotton shirt by RAF SIMONS, black and yellow cotton printed socks and black, grey and blue snakeskin boots by MIU MIU (worn throughout)

Taken from the Summer issue of Wonderland.

Black and grey cotton coat with collar by PAUL SMITH and white cotton printed t-shirt by MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

Pink wool ribbed knit sleeveless jumper by RIVER ISLAND , gold, bronze, and silver lurex knit long sleeved top by MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF ARCHIVE, blue and white wool jacquard sleeveless jumper by DIOR and black leather skirt with lace details by DIESEL

White, green and pink silk blend dress with collar and belt detail, black and yellow cotton printed socks all by MIU MIU

Black and grey cotton coat with collar by PAUL SMITH, white cotton printed t-shirt by MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF, black wool knit zip up top by McQ, moss green wool knit fingerless gloves by MARNI and blue cotton denim jeans by FENDI

Black cotton dress with sequinned detail collar and under skirt by CHRISTIAN DIOR and navy cotton tights by FALKE at MYTIGHTS and socks by MIU MIU

Photographer: Charlotte Hadden

Fashion Editor: Warren Leech

Make Up: Danielle Kahlani at The Book Agency using CHANEL

Hair: Nicole Kahlani at The Book Agency using KIEHL’s

Model: Kiki W at IMG

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We bring together Edward Meadham, Arvida Bystrom and The Slits front woman Viv Albertine together in a film by Sharna Osborne.

Taken from the Spring Fashion Issue of Wonderland Magazine:

“Reject Everything” was the fierce statement proclaimed at London fashion designer duo Meadham Kirchhoff’s street-cast SS15 show. Arriving at the event, you would have seen the set designed within an almost post-apocalyptic space in which bloodied tampons swung from the branches of trees. It played out like the pages of a fanzine; paying tribute to some of fashion’s most lauded designers, with Dame Westwood and Malcolm McLaren top of the list. Presenting each guest with a personal booklet, Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff gave onlookers before finding herself inspired an insight into their world. Listing pro-lifers, women against feminism, fathers and celebrity culture in their handwritten “hate” list; and mothers, fags, dykes, queens, The Queen and Viv Albertine of The Slits under “love”.

Fashion Editor: Edward Meadham.

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White denim bridal dress, white cotton vest with gold embroidery, white silk boxers and white satin bandana worn around thigh and gold crucifix all by ED MARLER.

Black silk floral dress by Vivienne Westwood, gold crucifix by ED MARLER and light pink feather coat by JENNY PACKHAM.

White cotton dress with silver embellishments by SAINY LAURENT by HEDI SLIMANE.

Black cotton dress with silver embellishments and sheer chiffon sleeves by PRADA, white feather coat by DKNY and gold crucifix by ED MARLER.

Black cotton dress with frilled sleeve by ERDEM and gold crucifix by ED MARLER.

Black cotton pleated dress by MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF, black fishnet socks by ED MARLER, black leather ankle boots by CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN and gold crucifix by ED MARLER.

Gold and black patterned dress and black wool heels by MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF, black fishnet socks by ED MARLER, white cotton shearling jacket in hand by TOM FORD.

Black silk dress by MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF, black wool cape coat with white fur collar by FENDI and gold crucifix by ED MARLER.

Navy blue cotton blouse by MIU MIU.

Jacquard frill jacket and jacquard skirt, fishnet socks and gold crucifix all by ED MARLER.

Fashion: Matthew Josephs

Photography: Stefan Khoo

Hair: Roxanne Attard using Bumble & Bumble

Make up: Daniel Salstrom using M.A.C

Nails: Ami Streets at LMC Worldwide using Chanel Christmas 2014 and Body Excellence Handcream

Model: Mona Matsuoka at IMG

Retouching: Kasia Kret and Studio Invisible

Photographers assistants: Andrew Goss & Richard Birch

Fashion assistants: Toni-Blaze Ibekwe & Jordan Duddy

Hair assistants: Jordan Leigh.

Special thanks to Provision Studios.

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Having made an announcement that they will not show their AW15 collection at London Fashion Week this coming February, the future of design duo Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff’s influential brand Meadham Kirchhoff is somewhat uncertain. “The way the industry works, you’re driven to do all these grandiose shows, all these things that are incredibly expensive and then one day, the sponsorship runs out. You’re on your own,” Kirchhoff told Style.com.

Despite much previous support of the duo from the British fashion industry, Meadham Kirchhoff expressed their uncertainty on keeping up with such a fast paced industry – a feat faces by many a designer. Having served a mash up of anarchy with their SS15 ‘Reject Everything’ collection in which robotic bodysuits, acid hued outerwear, vest tops proclaiming ‘Batty Boy’, pastel graffitied tops, torn and spliced skirts, underwear as overwear, body armour style plastic, flesh exposing mesh and bold pink boots stomp down the runway to the sounds of Manson and The Slits – to say we are disappointed by this news is an understatement. SS15 was more than just a fashion show, it was a multi-faceted message to society, a protest against an increasingly homophobic world – it was typically London, the duos trademark move.

Will they show a SS15 collection just not at London Fashion Week, or could this be the end of our love affair with Meadham Kirchhoff? Time will tell,

Photography: Sharna Osborne.

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Red patterned shearling coat by PRADA, Yellow and black patterned shirt by ASHLEY WILLIAMS, Red latex pants STYLIST’S OWN, Studded vintage belt by BLITZ, Nylon pattern tights by FALKE and Heart shaped sunglasses by ROKIT

Wonderland: How did you get scouted?

Caroline: I was walking on Rue de Rennes in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, when I got scouted for the first time.

W: What’s your goofiest model moment to date?

C: Eating chicken on the bone with Marc Jacobs in Paris last year.

W: All time favourite fashion show?

C: Saint Laurent Menswear SS15. Hedi is a genius!

W: We saw lobster on your Instagram, what else do you love to sink your teeth into?

C: Freshly picked raspberries from the farmer’s market in Krakow (£2 a kg!). I also like anything smoked.

W: You’ve got a pretty funny story about lobster haven’t you, can you explain…

C: I went to the Dossier Journal party in some trendy club in NYC carrying a huge Maine lobster in my handbag…

W: Who else should we be following on Instagram and why?

C: @aarondemey1, he’s the best (and sweetest) make-up artist in the industry.

W: Soundtrack your life with one song…

C: “Heaven”, The Rolling Stones.

W: When you’re not behind the camera lens where can we find you?

C: In a flea market.

W: In 2044, where will you be?

C: In my own orchard/ vegetable garden with my kids and their father somewhere in America…

 

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Tralala

In a room overly scented by the smell of Tralala – the product of Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff’s AW14 collaboration with perfumery Penhaligon’s – the dynamic duo brought London fashion realness back to the capital, referencing feminism, homophobia, misogyny and gender diversity and the subcultures we live in for their unforgettable SS15 show.

Reject Everything

‘Reject Everything’ served a mash up of anarchy – marigold’s were made chic, accessories were avant-garde and hair was electrified, braided, bunched and dyed. We saw robotic bodysuits, acid hued outerwear, vest tops proclaiming ‘Batty Boy’, pastel graffitied tops, torn and spliced skirts, underwear as overwear, body armour style plastic, flesh exposing mesh and bold pink boots stomp down the runway to the sounds of Manson and The Slits, protesting against an increasingly homophobic world. This was Edward and Benjamin’s statement, their perception of beauty, their message to society, their tribute to Westwood, their blend of punk.

Typical model looks not required

Meadham Kirchhoff’s open casting call resulted in an eclectic gang of models, celebrating diversity and gender equality on the catwalk. Despite most of them having never set foot on a catwalk, they did a damn good job. This was more than just a fashion show, it was a multi-faceted message to society. It’s what London is all about.

Photography: Sharna Osborne.

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