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BoomBox is a name synonymous with the fashion elite. Undeniably one of the most prestigious cult nights of the noughties, the seminal fashion party attracted industry powerhouses, including designers, photographers and creative directors as they took their first steps into the huge and unpredictable world of fashion.

Adored by the likes of Henry Holland, Giles Deacon and Gareth Pugh, the event was curated by Richard Mortimer, editor of the fashion week must-read Rollacoaster Magazine. As part of the AW17 show schedule, New Look Men teamed up with Rollacoaster for a one-off BoomBox event to celebrate the party ten years on – and we were lucky to enough to get hold of the hottest ticket in town.

Held at London’s edgy Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen, which has previously held major musical events for the likes of Grimes, Foals and Florence & The Machine, the party included delightful drinks served up by Jack Daniels and a guest list containing many of the names at the forefront of the British fashion industry, including designers Henry Holland and Bobby Abley and Chief Exec of the British Fashion Council Caroline Rush CBE.

Catering to the eclectic crowd, which also included major names from non-fashion industries such as olympian Tom Daley, Arsenal footballer Hector Bellerin and musician Connor Maynard, the three different rooms that make up Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen ensured that there was something for everyone. The main bar & kitchen areas enabled attendees to relax and sip on Smirnoff and Warsteiner while discussing this season’s hottest shows and must-have pieces. The event space was a little more electrifying. Within the smokey, blue-hued room, party-goers grooved to a plethora of bouncy beats provided by designers and photographers such as Henry Holland, Matthew Stone as well as Bobby Abley and Charles Jeffrey who both presented their AW17 collections at this season’s LFWM – they were to die for FYI.

The lively event and amazing atmosphere highlighted that despite the 10 year absence, BoomBox has maintained its relevancy and would be more than capable of making a full-time comeback. The demand is always incredibly high for fashion events that accommodate every corner of fashion, and New Look Men x Rollacoaster x BoomBox won over the hearts of the fashion gang.

The high-fashion event was made possible with the help of high-street super-power New Look Men, who continue to build on their reputation for ensuring that the British man is styled to perfection. With over 850 stores, including 266 across the world, it’s clear that the New Look brand is ever on the up. With new lines added weekly, much like BoomBox, New Look embrace the ever-changing face of fashion and ensure that each and every fashion-lover is kitted out in the most up-to-date threads.

We’ve heard on the grapevine that the cult fashion party will have an open-to-all event lined up in the not too distant future, and if the New Look Men x Rollacoaster offering was anything to go by, you don’t want to miss it.

Words: Ryan Cahill

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Taken from the Summer Issue of Wonderland.

White cotton hoodie by TOPSHOP, perspex jewelled choker by VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

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If you’re looking for a bit of a culture fix this weekend and you’re lucky enough to be up North, then make sure you head to the Manchester Art Gallery: they’re staging an exhilarating exhibition which draws together a mixture of work by British female designers, both emerging and established, inspired by the groundbreaking historical roles that women played during the First World War. Serving as a part of the centenary commemorating the war, the exhibition presents designs by greats including Dame Vivienne Westwood, Holly Fulton and Sadie Williams, together with work by fashion graduates from colleges across the U.K. A range of fashion films have also been created for the presentation, underscoring the impact of the First World War on women’s roles in society that transformed the way in which they dressed.

The exhibition is keen to spotlight the fact that, while thousands of men went off to fight in the trenches, women stayed at home taking on new responsibilities in the work place, helping them define themselves through brand new styles of dress. These roles empowered women with new ways of dressing as they discarded previously restrictive items of clothing such as the corset; many of the silhouettes and wardrobe staples favoured by women today are rooted in that era, from the trench coat and trousersuit to current clubland faves like the jumpsuit.

The queen of punk Ms. Vivienne Westwood is the show’s indisputable highlight, and has restructured a multi-coloured jumpsuit shown in her Gold Label autumn-winter 2006/7 collection, endorsing the inmunition factory workwear piece with a touch of disco allure. Holly Fulton, meanwhile, fashions a yellow dress with appliques indicative of weaponry shells, and 2013 Wonder-fave Sadie Williams pays homage to the courageous nurses in the war with a floor-length gown in blue and silver with a large red cross across the bust. As if that wasn’t enough, the designs are accompanied by films commissioned by Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio. Heavy hitters Gareth Pugh, Craig Green and Phoebe English work alongside filmmakers Marie Schuller, George Harvey and Rei Nadal for this beautiful and intelligent series.

Wonderland caught up with the exhibition’s creative director, Darrell Vydelingum, who talked us through some of the themes of the exhibition, evoking a sense of significant historal change for women in Britain in the early twentieth century.

Can you tell us a bit about the themes of the exhibition?

The exhibition sees leading female fashion designers explore the profound effect the First World War had on women, and the impact this in turn had on women’s fashion. It is part of 14-18 NOW, the UK-wide arts programme that marks the centenary of the First World War. I wanted to achieve a mix of new commissions by leading designers alongside emerging talent from fashion colleges, animated by fashion films.

How about the films being presented alongside the exhibition?

The exhibition features original films that are contemporary reflections on the experience of women before, during and after the First World War. These include shorts by emerging directors commissioned by Nick Knight’s award-winning fashion film platform SHOWstudio, and first by Luke Snellin, with a cast wearing specially designed uniforms by Manchester fashion label Private White.

What were the main roles women played during the Great War?

As men left home to fight on the frontline, women had to fill in the gaps in the workforce, and over a million women went to work for the first time.  They took on a variety of jobs – as bus conductors, ambulance drivers and window cleaners, as well as in offices and factories.

Can you talk us through the ways in which women’s fashion contributed to their roles at this time?

The new responsibility and freedom women experienced through working led to new ways of dressing, as the social codes started to change.

What was liberating about the styles adopted by women in the First World War?

Silhouettes started to change as women started to work, becoming much free flowing and boyish in style.  It was during this period that the corset gave way to the bra. The exhibition shows how the silhouettes that emerged a hundred years ago  – the jumpsuit, trousers, shorter hemlines, elasticated underwear, the tailored suit – are still the bedrock of our catwalks and high streets today.

Why is Fashion and Freedom important in the 21st century?

Fashion is often seen as a frivolous thing, but this exhibition shows the key role it plays in examining our social and political history. The exhibition tells an epic story about women’s rights and freedoms.

Fashion & Freedom is at Manchester Art Gallery as part of 14-18 NOW until 27 November 2016.

Words: Ray Kinsella

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Italian style is renowned for its opulence, for its its lack of restraint, and designers like Versace and Gucci’s Alessandro Michele are keeping this reputation alive with collections defined by heavy embellishment and intricate tapestry. On the other hand there are designers like Miuccia Prada who staged a cinematic spectacle inspired by war at sea for AW16, or Silvia Fendi who reworked the house codes of her namesake brand into a stripped-back, functional collection. Some of these collections were rendered memorable by their casting, others by their concept. Regardless, they all deserve an in-depth exploration – here are the seven wonders of Milan Menswear Fashion Week AW16.

FENDI

This season Silvia Fendi made it her personal mission to create beautiful, functional garments that were as cosy to wear indoors as they were chic to wear on the streets. After being inspired by illustrations depicting domestic life in the 1960s, the designer began to question why the implication remains that comfort must be sacrificed for style. Her solution came in the form of an AW16 collection filled with enormous snuggly turtlenecks and geometric-printed outerwear lined with a fur trim.

There was innovation too, in the form of detachable coats that were specifically designed for the transition from indoors to outdoors, as well as an abundance of the brand’s signature furs. A neutral colour palette of brown and navy defined the collection’s most wearable pieces (including a pair of unexpected brown velour flares – think That 70s Show with a modern twist), although bolder designs were also explored with bright yellow furry accents and a series of graphic knits which featured a fun “Fendi” speech bubble. Referring back to the show’s theme, an architect was also commissioned to create a special ‘house’ in which the collection was shown, fitted with shaggy fur carpeting and a statement spiral staircase.

GUCCI

It was over 20 years ago that Tom Ford took the helm at Gucci and ushered in a provocative new era for the Italian house. Defined by its sex-centred ad campaigns, revealing silk blouses and high-octane glamour, the designer would cement a distinctive aesthetic that would go on to define the house for two whole decades. However, last year the fashion world was left shocked as Frida Giannini abruptly left the then-struggling house, leaving her successor Alessandro Michele only five days to prepare his debut collection. What resulted was one of the most remarkable transformations in fashion history – an unprecedented success from the very beginning, Michele focused his attention on youth and used the idea of a young, creative bohemian as his new muse.

Three seasons later and Michele is still making headlines – for AW16, he awarded trans superstar Hari Nef her first big-name modeling gig, alongside full control of the Gucci Snapchat account in the 24 hours leading up to the show. This breakthrough aside, the collection was business at usual for Michele who showed a collection made up of embroidered velvet bomber jackets and slim snakeskin-printed suits for AW16. A few nods to a Western theme were also included – an oversized jacket adorned with hanging fringe detail was just one example – whereas the patterned flares and embroidered jackets stayed true to the 70s aesthetic now synonymous with the house.

PRADA

There are very few designers in the fashion industry with the intellectual and conceptual sensibilities of Miuccia Prada. Never do her collections depend on mere aesthetics – they are evocative, open to interpretation and always accompanied by their own unique landscape. First impressions of the collection revealed an obvious nautical theme, referenced in the blue and white striped collarless shirts and sailor hats shown on the runway. Speaking backstage, however, the designer elaborated by underlining that the collection was inspired by the sea in general, and the key role it plays in facilitating migration and transporting cargo between wartorn countries. This bleak commentary painted the collection in a new light – what were once innocent nautical stripes now seemed to more closely resemble the boy in striped pyjamas.

Despite the somewhat heavy narrative that accompanied the show, it wasn’t all doom and gloom. Elements of mythology added a sense of romance to the collection, best embodied by a simple white shirt which had been screen-printed with an intricate illustration of the 21st century’s favourite mythical beast, the unicorn. In further nods to ancient history, the famous faces of Hercules and Cleopatra were re-imagined in illustration by Christophe Chemin, whereas flashes of colour appeared in the form of knitted patchwork jackets – a welcome antidote to the sombre colour palette that dominated throughout.

CALVIN KLEIN

It might have been menswear season, but it was Aussie model Gemma Ward who stole the show at Calvin Klein’s AW16 collection – her first runway in over a year. Dressed in an oversized double-breasted tux complete with camel overcoat, the inclusion of both genders on the runway was deemed by creative director Italo Zucchelli to be a tribute to the universal power of menswear tailoring. While the notion of women at the shows is nothing new (see Naomi Campbell’s surprise appearance at Givenchy SS16), more brands than ever are choosing to merge mens and pre-collections – a move which could lead to the abolition of gendered runways altogether. 

Despite the furore surrounding Ward and her long-awaited return, the collection was newsworthy in its own right. Zucchelli stayed true to the brand’s iconic heritage with strict tailoring and a series of coated denim pieces teamed with classic white tees. The more unexpected addition came courtesy of the metallic flashes that appeared throughout, a surprisingly fresh look for a brand so firmly rooted in its own history. These weren’t subtle metallics – think the shiny foil packaging of a Quality Street or the tinfoil glint of a survival blanket and you’re on the right lines. However, its impact was downplayed by its styling, resulting in a sequence of statement pieces that were surprisingly wearable. A burnished copper overcoat was perhaps the collection’s overall highlight, just visible under the larger silhouette of a traditional black overcoat.

MARNI

Although it may not have been the most outlandish or conceptual collection on show at Milan, Marni AW16 collection deserves a mention for the way it quietly disrupted a series of classic silhouettes. The button-down shirt for example – they looked traditional in every way, but were gathered and ruched at the neck like makeshift hospital gowns, buttoned or tied at the back of the neck. Then there were a series of overcoats in navy blue, fitted with a discreet side band which appeared to give only one arm the freedom to protrude.

These experiments aside, the larger part of the collection looked to romantic blooms screen-printed onto mustard silk shirts, some of which were teamed with fur stoles draped casually across shoulders. The ‘hero piece’ came courtesy of the collection’s outerwear – more specifically the hugely oversized pinstripe overcoat which was teamed with a monochrome shirt and loose trousers on the runway for a relaxed yet instantly cool look. The show might not have made headlines but the clean lines, oversized silhouettes and subtle attention to detail are bound to result in a commercial hit.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Vivienne Westwood is not just a designer. She is also a tireless political activist, an originator of punk subculture and, unforgettably, she is the woman that, in 2014, marched to 10 Downing Street to gift the Prime Minister with asbestos for Christmas. Her collections are usually accompanied by their own individual manifestos and AW16 was no different, with Dame Viv releasing a video entitled “Be Specific” explaining her intentions to encourage a transition to green energy and save the rainforest.

Politics aside, the aesthetic of the collection challenged archaic notions of gendered silhouettes by introducing asymmetrical chiffon dresses and platform boots into her menswear show. The knitwear shown throughout the show came in various hemlines – it was either frayed and cropped to reveal a hint of midriff, or extended and elongated so that it dropped to the knees. Fittingly, the outfits on show were topped off with a subtle hint of bling in the form of gold penis pendants. Glinting subversively in the light, they were proof that Dame Viv isn’t quite ready to bow out just yet.

PHILIPP PLEIN

Superheroes were on the agenda for Philipp Plein’s AW16 showing, a somewhat sombre affair which stuck to an almost all-black colour palette. Signature touches of bling were on show as usual in the form of metallic logos and superhero insignia printed onto slim-fit black sweatshirts, but they were also in the light-up wheels of the painted skateboards that appeared frequently as accessories.

Although the pared-back aesthetic was a far cry from the studded leathers and ripped denim of Plein’s last menswear showing, his presentation was as spectacular as usual. Following in the footsteps of Tyga, Azealia Banks and Courtney Love, Lil’ Wayne was this season’s musical guest, whereas SS16 campaign star and man of the moment Lucky Blue Smith diverted the attention of his 1.9million Instagram followers with a standout appearance.

In just a few short seasons Plein has gone from relative unknown to one of the hottest tickets on the schedule with his unique view of fashion as a performance, as more than just clothing. He understands that weary fashion editors are desperate for spectacle, for a breath of fresh air amongst the overwhelmingly dense fashion calendar. Through his combination of high-octane glamour and blockbuster sets, Plein always succeeds in creating one of the season’s most memorable showings.

Words: Jake Hall

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2015 was a great year for Wonderland. We don’t like to boast, but we partied all night with Lindsay Lohan at our 10th birthday, we made 10 covers for our anniversary issue, we collaborated with the likes of Hedi Slimane, Ryan McGinley and Petra Collins and worked with superstars like Katy Perry, Little Mix, Kristen Stewart, Selena Gomez and Lucky Blue. We’ve been busy.

Don’t worry, 2015 wasn’t all about us. Culture went well and truly pop around the world with the stratospheric rise of Justin Bieber breaking records set by The Beatles, the global sob when One Direction announced their hiatus and we all became obsessed with Lily Rose Depp, because, well, she’s Lily Rose Depp.

While pop might have ruled this year, 2015 was also the opportunity to break out of the norm. Kanye West headlined Glastonbury despite an angry mob of petition-signers trying to stop him. Grime climbed the charts in the UK and US and Britain’s MCs started to get the recognition they deserved. Finally our favourite revolutionary, Caitlyn Jenner, instantly became the poster-woman for trans-rights after her Vanity Fair cover and pioneered to increase everyone’s awareness surrounding the issues transgender people often have to face.

All in all, it’s been a pretty good year for pop culture. We can’t wait to see what 2016 has in store. Here’s our favourite moments from the 2015.

Best Music Video

Winner: Rihanna – “Bitch Better Have My Money”

Ok, so we haven’t got the album yet but BBHMM was almost enough to keep us satisfied all year. Ri’s saturated offering of nudity, drugs, violence and adventure sparked a thousand think pieces and we almost had as much fun reading them and rolling our eyes as we did making gifs of the video. An anthem and a badass one at that.

Runner Up: Drake – “Hotline Bling”

It’s Drake, dad dancing, what more could you ask for? If you say you haven’t tried to replicate this dance when the song comes on in a club then you’re a liar. Or just boring.

Best Song

Winner: Kendrick Lamar – “Alright”

We could have put almost any song from To Pimp A Butterfly in the top spot with no regrets. “Alright” is a rip roaring call to solidarity that was poignantly chanted by protestors at the Black Lives Matter conference and stuck with us ever since.

Runner Up: Fetty Way – “Trap Queen”

Just a bit of a banger tbh. Don’t think anyone can really argue with that.

Best Comeback

Winner: Justin Bieber

Well Biebs hadn’t really gone anywhere, it’s his transformation we’re admiring him for. This year he got up to all sorts including being ridiculed on TV in the name of entertainment, landing a CK campaign, making tracks with Diplo and Skrillex, giving tell-all interviews about how he’s a grown up now and finally, dropping an incredible album. JB’s a man now and a talented one at that having smashed records set by The Beatles when 17 of his songs placed on the Billboard Top 100, the most in one week by one artist since the Fab Four had 14 at once in 1964 (a total that Drake managed to match twice this year too).

Runner Up: Adele

She’s just the queen really, whether you’re like Adele’s music or not, there’s no-one who can do what she does. “Hello” has had 857million views in 2 months, anyone else managed that, hands up?

Honorable Mention: Agyness Deyn

We couldn’t leave out Aggy after we put her on our Winter Issue cover! She made the most stylist comeback of all, bejewelled and on a Saint Laurent catwalk, the stuff of dreams.

Best Collection: Gucci Menswear SS16

Alessandro Michele has gone beyond our wildest dreams for what Gucci could have become in 2015. Taking over the reigns rather speedily, he transformed the tired conventions of one of the world’s most revered fashion houses into a youthful, vibrant and most importantly, a playful indicator of what luxury fashion can be in 2015 (or rather to be worn in 2016).

Runner Up: Vetements RTW SS16

Demna Gvasalia is calling all young things, and old things, any things who don’t take themselves to seriously. All things who could burn up and dance floor, or any floor, basically. The club kids have been dissected for SS16. Gosha Rubchinskiy led the show down the runway in a DHL t shirt and leather trousers, why? Why not. Cropped hair, Titanic hoodies, anything and everything goes. It just needs to be Vetements, or obscure enough for you to pretend that it is.

Special Mention: Loewe’s eponymous print and Miu Miu’s boots

Just obvs.

Best Pop Culture Moment: Shia LaBeouf Watching All His Films In Succession

This was peak 2015. Shia is our favourite hot mess. After him shouting “JUST DO IT” and before he opened his phone line so you could touch his soul, his personal marathon ensued. It’s still a bit of a mystery why he wanted to spend three days watching all of his own cinematic moments with a live audience, but he did, and the reactions provided us with enough memes to last until 2016 is over.

Worst Pop Culture Moment: One Direction Announcing Their Hiatus

Ok so Zayn’s gone, we’d just about recovered from that, now the rest of One Direction have decided is the right moment to have some time off. Our tiny aching hearts are still healing. At least we’ve still got Bieber, for now.

Best Film

Winner: Star Wars: The Force Awakens

Runner Up: Tangerine

The film that’s taking on the Academy Awards, Tangerine is pioneering in more than one way. Firstly shot entirely on iPhones (don’t get any ideas, we’re not all directors waiting to be discovered), this dark comedy follows two transgender women on the less than shiny streets of Hollywood, working the corners. Caitlyn Jenner is campaigning for Mya Taylor to receive an Academy Award as supporting actress. Watch this space.

Best Wonderland Moment

Winner: FKA twigs’ Six Pack

One of the weirdest and most wonderful things we’ve ever done, reuniting Matthew Stone, Matthew Josephs and FKA twigs brought us a mixed gender mythological creature dressed in Givenchy haute couture. We hope you’ve got the poster on your wall.

Runner Up: Katy Perry’s Eyebrows

You would not believe the scandal we caused by bleaching Katy Perry’s eyebrows. Have a little scroll online at the posts about this cover and you can see for yourself. Here’s some advice for 2016, if you get your hands on a global pop icon, don’t bleach their brows, unless you’re ready for the backlash.

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You might remember that for his label’s SS16 runway show in Milan, Philipp Plein served up a slew of torn denim and distressed leather as models were moved across an elevated conveyor-belt catwalk whilst being handed sunglasses by giant robotic arms. Oh, and Grunge’s high-priestess, Courtney Love, was there in person providing the soundtrack – that kind of scale shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone familiar with Plein’s big-budget approach to Fashion Week.

Well, it would be hard to reproduce those production values for a campaign, but that doesn’t mean Plein hasn’t given it a good go with this Steven Klein-shot series. First, there’s big name models like Hailey Bladwin, Ajak Deng, and Wonderland-favourite Lucky Blue Smith. Then there’s the setting – some kind of “abandoned, post apocalyptic laboratory” interior washed in stark fluorescent lighting – and, of course, the clothes themselves, which are studded, sparkling and torn-up. Those robot arms from the show even make an appearance worn over the hands and attached with cabling to what looks like a bionic-rucksack. It’s not for the faint of hearted, but what “futurist punk” collection is?

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Last night, the London Coliseum played host to the British Fashion Council’s annual Fashion Awards and the good, bad and the ugly of the fashion world were in attendance: from Posh and Becks to Georgia May Jagger and even Lady Gaga (where you been girl?), a star-studded guest list of over 2000 turned up to support and celebrate the fashion industry’s good work.

As for the winners, there weren’t too many surprises, with man of the gender-bending hour, J.W. Anderson, taking home both the Womenswear and Menswear designer award. Meanwhile, Wonderland favourite, Alessandro Michele, won the International Designer award and ex-cover star FKA Twigs scooped a Fashion Innovator prize. In terms of emerging talent, nods went to Grace Wales Bonner and Thomas Tait for Menswear and Womenswear respectively. For his Red Carpet work, Tom Ford received an award that was given by another Wonderland cover-heartthrob, Lucky Blue Smith, and was accepted on Ford’s behalf by his latest campaign star, Lady Gaga.

Oh, and there was a little something for the legendary Karl Lagerfeld by way of an Outstanding Achievement award, given to him by the one and only Anna Wintour: star studded, see?

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We spoke to Hackney-Wick based four-piece Zola Blood about this time last year when they were just releasing their debut EP, Meridian. During our chat, we found out a few interesting things about them: that they rely on a lot of “shitty iPhone recordings” to jot down their inspiration before they hit the studio, that they’re inspired by notable Hungarian artist Gabor Kerekes who combined the visual arts with science (no, me neither..), and, most importantly, that they are perfectionists who spent a year writing and working together before they “even considered releasing anything”. In this era of maxi-output digital musicians, we definitely appreciate artists who take the time to sit down and really perfect their music.

Their careful approach certainly shows; Meridian was a beautifully pitched combination of indie vocals and Caribou-inflected electro beats, and since then we’ve also been treated to the moody masterpiece “Play Out”. Over the summer I was also lucky enough to catch them at Secret Garden Party  where they played a set to put a smile on my face amidst the knee-deep mud (bye-bye AirMax, your memory lives on). Now Zola Blood are back with a new video, that we are proud to be premiering, for their standout “Pieces of The Day”. The song continues to develop the band’s trademark sound, with catchy vocals layered over a track that would stand-alone perfectly well as a pure instrumental – always a good sign. The video, meanwhile, is a fairly beguiling series of shots that sees a night-owl roller-skater making pool balls levitate before she’s absorbed into a magical urban roof-scape. Sounds good? That’s because it is.

Video Credits

Director: Maxim Kelly
Producer: Deborah Stone
DOP: Iona Firouzabadi

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Taken from the 10th Birthday Issue of Wonderland.

Leopard print silk shirt with contrasting velvet collar by ED MARLER and nylon holster by NASIR MAZHAR

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