Amiri’s Autumn/Winter 2023 Men’s collection is akin to a soundtrack. Full of layers and fuelled by memories of creative director Mike Amiri, the collection is brimming with nostalgia.
Reflecting the process of hitting the studio, notions of production flow through the clothes. By jamming out, discovering things, and playing around with new things – this collection is playful to its core. The silhouettes are loose and fluid, with large proportions. Slouchy, reminiscent of skatewear, the forms are languid – reflecting that carefree energy. These sensibilities contrast the sophisticated fabrics, as cashmere, silk, shearling, faux fur, brushed wool elevates the garments to the utmost chicness.
Traversing a colour palette of monochrome, silver grey, azure and ochre, accented with deep red and mint green – the city hues diffuse into the garments. Subverting classicism, formal wear turns into an everyday means of dressing. Signifying comfort and elegance, these manifest in soft leather and brushed wool while blazers are recontextualised into varsity jackets. ‘50s Americana is a thread that weaves throughout the collection, appearing in preppy uniforms, Beat Generation prose, and newsboy hats. This era saw the very notion of counterculture emerge, and the American youth’s rebellion echoes to this day.
The collection also features an abundance of fabric manipulation, which heralds the art of experimentation. Turning the familiar into the abstract – hand-embroidered Swarovski sequins are loose-ended to mimic tassels, while the texture of fur is imitated by uncut fine silk. Bandana prints are patchworked with leather and suede, while hand-painted patterns are translated onto shearling jackets, created from leftover fabric.
A few accessories particularly shine. Such as the Drum Machine bag – a nod to many producers’ favourite tool. Alongside that is the Record bag, which was crafted up as an ode to vinyl.
All in all, Amiri’s intricate details are his signature. Just like in the studio, the spirit of experimentation takes force. Riffing and riffing, until you find your rhythm.
For more, and to watch the show, head below…