When it came to inspiration for Chanel’s Spring Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection, Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31, Rue Cambon was a fountain of influence. Sprouted from the very place that Virginie Viard took Xavier Veilhan at the very start of their collaboration – this apartment brims with a spellbinding collection of objects, sculptures, drawings which bear likeness to lions, does, stags, birds and camels.

Reflecting on this Haute Couture creation, Viard notes: “For his third participation, I asked him to reinterpret the apartment’s bestiary and incorporate his own. The whole embroidery universe of the collection is turned towards the animal world.” With its sights set on nature, this is echoed in the collection with embroidered kittens, corgis, rabbits, and swallows embellishing a range of short tweed suits and coat dresses. With the stag motif already emblematic of Chanel, this new venture is apt as can be.

The show itself sprung into life with a festive parade kicking into action. Eleven colossal animals made from wood, cardboard and paper were crafted up by Xavier Veilhan – hiding models inside. Opening up for their escape, Veilhan gleams at the element of surprise: “I like it when the marvellous bursts forth and the course of events is interrupted.”

Carrying the thread of the House’s codes, which recontextualise female uniforms, this time around they were turned into a spectacle. Top hats and bow ties mingled amongst white gloves and laced boots, with both masculine and feminine elements incorporated into the collection. Emanating pure refinement, dresses and jumpsuits were a display of flow and flounce, taking the shape of silk tulle, taffeta, organza, georgette crepe and Chantilly lace.

A Chanel show wouldn’t be complete without its signature bride, and an intricately embroidered bridal gown featuring a veil, complete with the swallow motif, was sent down the runway in a dazzling finish.