For AMI’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection, the Opéra Bastille in Paris set the perfect stage for the label’s theatrical show to unfold. Called the “Prelude” collection, the name instinctively came to founder Alexandre Mattusi. Representing an introduction, or opening piece to an act that follows – Matussi found this idea essential to his practice. Having tried to define, redefine, and work towards a modern wardrobe – it’s only now, 12 years on since the label’s debut that things are finally being set in motion.
A perfect depiction of a Parisian, male or female, this collection oozes romanticism. It’s winter, but it’s soft – with colours, materials, and shapes as light as a whisper. The minimal set design contrasted the elaborate space, but when the lights went on – it allowed for the focus to fall on the clothes. The casting was another profoundly thought-out process, with a vibrant mix of several generations. Established models like Charlotte Rampling were mingled amongst up-and-coming faces.
Carrying AMI’s essence, the garments are ‘pure and pragmatic, fresh and flexible’. Taking inspiration from the effortlessness of French dressing, the collection mixes together different styles. AMI’s codes, based in modernity and enriching the world, are evolved – offering up elevated counterparts to their previous seasons. Silhouettes are refined yet relaxed, with influence diffusing from the menswear collections into womenswear, still maintaining a romantic edge.
The colour palette meanders between contrasting tones, as sartorial darker tones juxtapose neutrals and dusty pastels. Whether the texture is soft, fluffy, or crushed – the silks, alpaca, and cashmere lend to the lighter side. Intricate embroideries embellish more masculine pieces, adding an artistic flair.
Where accessories are concerned, the bag of the season is the Nap Bag. Full of volume, and padded to the max within nappa leather, the shoulder bag calls to mind a pillow. The colour and texture appears even, and perfectly imperfect as if time took its toll. Deconstructed and imperfect, yet elegant and refined, this dichotomy is all the more evidenced by the metallic Ami de Cœur-shaped clasp.
With a star-studded frow including Noah Schnapp, Usher, and Dylan O’Brien – AMI’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection was a triumph.
