Guests of Dior’s latest show were immediately submerged into a spellbinding atmosphere of billowing smoke, pools of light, and cascading silhouettes. The show’s futuristic feel was something akin to the unyielding sandscapes of Frank Herbert’s Dune – at once daunting, yet enticing all the same. Held in Giza, Egypt, the Dior Men’s Fall 2023 collection was set against the backdrop of the warm setting sun, dreaming up an atmosphere wherein each and every piece was brought to light. As the sun lowered, the looks began to emerge – muted and neutral colours reflecting the colours of the landscape, and the dazzling hues of the sky above.

The collection was set in motion with a gradation of greys, which unfurled and evolved as does the passage of time. Sprung into a jolt, the collection’s silhouettes cascaded and billowed behind the models as they sauntered along the runway. Dior’s signature couture finishings were given technical embellishments, while the collection’s archival embroideries were transformed into futuristic armoury. Heavy, chunky combat boots formed the basis of almost every look – but the various accessories really brought each look over the edge; visors, sheer ‘sand protectors’, and space helmets imbued the collection with an astronomical flair.

Snaking between more utilitarian looks, which look fit for a trip to Mars, other looks subverted the very notion of menswear. Take the crin-like wool demi kilts, which featured in several of the collection’s looks. Originating from the bias pleated skirt of Dior’s Bonne Fortune dress from the ‘50s – the skirt’s reimagining recontextualises this silhouette not only for a whole new generation, but for a completely different wearer too. Toeing the line between masculinity and femininity, the Dior Men’s Fall 2023 collection radiates one sentiment – the future is now.

At the core of the house’s latest offering is the melding of the past and the present. Reflecting the rigour of Dior’s artisans who were integral to shaping its archive, while also heralding the garment-makers who now hold the torch – Dior is using the past to propel itself into the future. The collection’s array of jacquard transparencies, its cascading fluidity, and its organic utility shine a light on Dior’s rigorous underpinnings in tailor wear and outerwear. With comfort and practicality at the forefront of the collection – Dior offers up two of the ultimate luxuries.

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