For his debut AW21 collection at Fendi, Kim Jones was inspired by the house’s family ties – & not the ones that go around your neck…
Filling a fashion icon’s shoes is never easy, especially when they’re one of the 21st century’s biggest household names, but Kim Jones has never been one to shy away from a challenge. After taking up the reigns at Dior Homme just a few years ago, the death of Karl Lagerfeld saw the multi-hyphenate designer also add the role of Artistic Director of FENDI womenswear to his roster of monikers, an endeavour that, despite Covid restrictions, is bearing fruit already.
“The Fendi family are women of intellect who work hard – and that’s what I wanted to celebrate,” says Jones of the inspirations for his AW21 debut at the house. “A powerful dynasty.” Using the five Fendi sisters’ wardrobes as his foundation, Jones’ collection constructed on the pillars of great taste, from silky silhouetted office attire, tied asymmetrically to accentuate the body, to 70s-helmed bell sleeves taken from once-treasured mink coats.
Jones was also inspired by the late Karl Lagerfeld – Creative Director of the brand for over 50 years – opting for motifs such as his Karligraphy monogram, or reworking the powerhouse designer’s first shoe for the house, performing something of a balancing act between newer house elements, like marbled silk dresses, jacquard knits fashioned with oh-so-delicate organza embroidery that emerged at Couture Week back in January.
There are long trench coats; cut with the thickest and sharpest lines imaginable; monogrammed stockings; chunky bags in leather and snakeskin; carabiner necklaces bearing the house’s signature double F’s; high-waisted pencil skirts and, in the most severe cases, some rather dazzling fringing. As far as new era’s go, it suffices to say we here at Wonderland are lapping Jones’ latest endeavour up like a couple of dehydrated dogs.