Wonderland.

ETRO AW21

The designer breaks all the rules for the Italian fashion house’s AW21 menswear show.

ETRO FW21 warehouse models walking
ETRO FW21 warehouse models walking

Many of us have used lockdown as a time to finally get around to decluttering our wardrobes, discovering forgotten pieces left buried at the back. Menswear Creative Director, Kean Etro, is no exception. His designs for Etro’s fall menswear collection represent a personal tapestry of rediscovered fabrics and ideas. Recycled wool is reimagined as a maxi sweater, archival silk linings are transformed into peeping shirt collars, while the fashion house’s vintage upholstery textiles are crafted into quilted jackets.

Light shone through the live streaming of the fashion show. Set in an abandoned industrial space, glowing rays streamed through its large, panelled windows. Models draped in a bold clash of patterns and colours were dazzled by these strips of sunlight as they strode down the runway. The collection is as “a message of hope and faith,” Etro explains, a reminder that “the sun always shines after a storm.”

ETRO FW21 finale models walking in a group
ETRO FW21 finale models walking in a group

Showing us the true meaning of versatility, the capsule broke down the boundaries between indoor and outdoor, day and night, casual and luxury. With a possible nod to the slob-chic makeshift style of the coronavirus pandemic, pyjama-inspired piping details enhanced its elegant shirts. Fluid shapes were grounded by expert tailoring and luxurious fabrics. Sporty anoraks, for example, were splashed with Etro’s signature eclectic paisley patterns, while classic double-breasted suits arrived in unexpected, deconstructed silhouettes. Playful was definitely the mood of the occasion.

ETRO FW21 yellow simmering jacket and multi-coloured trousers
Purple hoodie and cargo style jacket ETRO FW21
ETRO FW21 yellow simmering jacket and multi-coloured trousers
Purple hoodie and cargo style jacket ETRO FW21
Words
Anya Cooper