Super Size Me
It would be lazy and inaccurate to contribute the oversized silhouettes at Joseph’s AW17 show to the Vetements effect alone, but certainly there were elements of the aesthetic led by Demna Gvasali’s label present; collars referenced the stretched shapes familiar with 1970’s fashions, sleeves fell beneath fingertips, and, perhaps most prominently, suit jackets walked by in male proportions as if borrowed from a prom date. In contrast to Gvasali’s vision though, Louise Trotter’s Joseph was a thoroughly chic affair: sensible, mature and contemporary.
Not for the first time this season, flowers were a high point, their inclusion marking something of a contrast against the rest of the collection’s primarily savoury palette. Introduced in batches that clashed, then matched, florals took the form of prints, vintage tapestries and embroidery, in pairings that ran from the tame – white and peach, blue and green – to the bright, orange and hot pink.
Suit Me Up
“The idealised masculine, the idealised feminine, for Autumn Winter 2017 each mirrors the other; a distorted reflection where clichés are twisted and magnified.” So announced the opening lines of Joseph’s press notes this season: suits here, were central to the conversation. Call it a tribute to Hillary Clinton or a subtle nod to the Eric Rohmer woman – boasting loose curls and bobbed cuts, Rohmer’s aesthetic was also felt in the models hairstyles – the suiting though, made a big impression, likewise the looks that weren’t formed of traditional suit pieces but were made up of matching sets. Wonderland highlights? The two pink numbers, in palest pink and brightest cerise respectively.