Jil Sander brought shoulder pads and pleats to the minimalist game.
You can count the looks at Jil Sander SS17 sans-shoulder pads on one hand. Seriously. Embrace the angles, we say, but admittedly the power-professional 80s style isn’t for everyone. Making the style unavoidable for this season was a bold choice by Rodolfo Paglialunga, but perhaps the time was right, having followed closely in Sander’s footsteps over the last two years whilst being at the helm.
Pleats aren’t a detail usually associated with minimalist design, but this collection showed that even the most minimal of brands can have a little (or a lot) of fun with fabric detailing. Appearing on sweaters, ovoid-shouldered jumpsuits and in an asymmetrically-toned belted dress, as well as a burgundy skirt and jacket combo, pleats just popped up everywhere. Although not usually a minimalist staple, pleats proved themselves to be the cutest way to incorporate fabric play for SS17.
Minimalist Colour Chart
Monochrome is the colour scheme that springs to mind when the term minimalism is brought up. Not this time however; despite the majority of the collection formed of classic black and white tones, shades of peach, sunny yellow and pale blue in the matching oversized pleated dresses (with colour-match belts, of course) stood out amongst the darker shades and bright whites that appear season after season. Paglialunga also dabbled with burnt oranges and shimmering silvers that were akin to a space-age costume (it also had pleats, obvs.), proving that minimalism isn’t just black and white.