The Maison Margiela trademark of artful deconstruction was revisited for SS17. Taken in a very literal form, several garments were detailed with bright white tailor’s chalk, marking out the patterns used to make it and hinting at where darts and pleats may have been. Maison Margiela reduced the garments back down to the very essence of an idea throughout the show, from the first look (a black suit with the jacket marked as if it was still in construction), to the sky blue suit that was a centre piece for the idea of reduction, as well as the half jacket that was layered over a white gauze sleeveless top. Maison Margiela focused in on the craft of making, and the concept of reduction. Very Maison Margiela.
It was legs eleven at Maison Margiela. The collection featured skin-tight khaki bodysuit with hip cut outs, navy shorts paired with a pale khaki pea coat that had a slight sheen and a khaki bomber jacket that contrasted tight dark tan shorts. The short lengths balanced out tailored perfection of the trousers in the collection, which came in cream and black tailored trousers and blue jeans, as well as the pale peach suit.
Despite there being very few prints in the collection, Maison Margiela’s most exciting print for SS17 was of the country garden variety. Featuring foxes leaping over a fence into a path, gunning for a stray duck, the print had a brushstroke finish, as if it was painted straight onto the fabric. The greens, muted oranges and yellows of the flowers adoring three garments (two shirts and a pair of trousers) were a cute highlight in the collection. Elsewhere, prints were limited to a muted colour palette, with black and white plaid making an appearance and a pale grey check on a trench coat that billowed on the catwalk.