Sebastiaan Pieter took implicit and explicit ideas of sexuality and worked them into the heart of his collection. The designer created a casual series, in which models wore jersey and gauze tops, shorts and long vests slit up the side with black leather sliders. T-shirts were splashed with phrases such as ‘Chill Out’, ‘Come Down’ and ‘Fun Now’, adding to the sense of play. The summer-lounge look was given a provocative edge thanks to metallic silver speedos worn high above low slung shorts , backless linen tops and split seams on sleeves, all of which allowed skin to show through. Meanwhile hooded jackets in pink, semi-transparent parachuting nylon left little to the imagination.
Taking inspiration from the sun drenched beaches of Miami, Pieter worked across a palette of greens, pinks and purples as well as navy, black and grey. Central to the collection was the recurring metallics that ran across jersey tops, shorts and speedos. Elsewhere boxy cropped tops were adorned with metallic embroidery of sweet wrappers and pills, evoking a sense of debauched disco on long summer nights.
Jewellery played a strong role in this collection. Silver chains with same slogans worn short along the neck and ornate hoop earrings added a fierce edge to the otherwise simple silhouettes. In a broader sense, it was details that brought the collection together. These features and other emblems such as the candy wrapper embroidery were indicative of the influence that conceptual Cuban artist Felix Gonzales-Torres (who was famed for his minimal installations that used objects such as lightbulbs and wrapped sweets to reflect on his experience of AIDS) had on the PIETER SS17 collection.