We break down the best shows from Paris Fashion Week AW16.
The debut of Vetements resident Demna Gvasalia’s first stint as creative director for Balenciaga was hotly anticipated at his Sunday morning show in Paris. Dishevelled work wear opened the show that was held in a soundproof white foam box, where proportioned check and tweed suits, sucked in at the waist and padded at the hips, were teamed with fold over turtlenecks to create a sensible business suit with a hidden curiosity. Pops of electric blue condensed knitwear took stage and enlarged interlocking chains hanging from sunglasses doubled as statement necklaces. The show didn’t come without its Vetements references from Gvasalia- infusions of mismatched patchwork florals with irregular hems and street wear influences that were found within oversized ski jackets and plunged off the shoulder V-necked hoodies reminded us that Vetements is never far away.
With confirmation from the brand that Phoebe Philo is remaining firmly planted in their creative throne, we expected nothing less than the effortless desirability displayed from Celine in their AW16 show. The green and blue tennis court floor reflected in to one or two pieces – a petroleum blue leather trench and lurid green wide leg palazzos – while the rest of the pieces came in neutral buttery tones and conventional nudes. Airy flares fell in to pools of silk over the roman sandals strapped to the models feet that built a floaty silhouette, one that is so freely represented in the Celine woman. Enlarged interlocking links made up belts that loosely chained the hips of lightweight silk dresses, layered on top of sheer turtlenecks (that were featured under nearly every piece) and black running leggings. Philo might not have ventured far from her statement comforts but she produced transitional pieces that could be worn straight off the catwalk.
Prints came in bountiful amounts at the Givenchy AW16 show; python; kaleidoscope; leopard; you name it they Riccardo Tisci featured it. Cropped brocaded jackets in a rich red with gilded gold edges, printed silk skirts and black coats and blazers with sizeable gold buttons stormed through the plywood maze that had been constructed as the obstacle course catwalk. References came from Ancient Egypt, Tutankhamun eye make-up included, with python, cone-heeled, knee high boots and lavish helpings of fur shrugged off as coats around the elbows, almost embracing the floor. Padded bomber jackets made an appearance, correlative with the street wear fever taking over this season, in luxe black velvet, gold satin print and black nylon with gold plated disks intact. The whole collection exuded super wealth.
Known for providing long, billowing gowns for the stars, you can always expect great dresses in a Galliano show. His AW16 didn’t differ, with slinky 30’s style evening gowns in powder pink organza and ditsy black floral prints. Asymmetrical shoulder draping brought a new, irregular silhouette to the collection completing it with a tied bow left drooping down the forearm. The looks that involved trousers came teamed with pussybow blouses and boyish caps in overcast navy finished underneath khaki military jackets with shoulder tabs. For those on the red carpet scene, a nod towards the floor-length, strapless gown that tiered to the ground in black 3-D layered rose effect swathes, however you might want to swap the boxing boots paired with it for a more fitting heel.