Our curated highlights from day five of Paris Fashion Week.
With the announcement that Westwood’s mainline Gold Label would be handing the creative reins over to her husband Andreas Kronthaler, the brand’s AW16 show was all about his voice shining through. Titled ‘Sexercise’, the collection, according to Kronthaler “fused the spirituality of all world religion to add a transcendent touch to his work.” The clothes began in a formation of claret with draping fabrics fashioned in to single shouldered dresses and luxurious capes of wonder, taking reference from a friend who became a Buddhist nun. Other looks included metallic gold two pieces, complete with matching puffer coat, the classic Viv tartan suits paired with towering sling-back heels and luxurious embroidered patterns integrated on to fitted blazers and shirts, a nod to the 17th century. The unisex designs were displayed on both male and female models, both strapped in to platform heels, keeping up with the reoccurring ‘gender fluidity’ this season.
Comme Des Garçons
18th Century punks were the inspiration for Rei Kawakubo’s AW16 collection, sending 3-D superstructures down the runway in powder pinks and rose-cloaked patterns. Constructions of abstract samurai armour were brought to life by the ditsy florals applied in vivid colours and patchwork print while conspicuous patent pink ruffles tiered from either side of a mini skirt suit emulated a pair of duo car wash rollers. Vastly expanded shoulders added to the enlarged silhouette created by disjointed elements of the clothes, made even taller by the black gothic Marie Antoinette pompadours affixed on to the models heads. All in all, it was a mixture of upholstered rose patterned jacquards, rubber frills and audacious armour. Less ready-to-wear, more ready for battle.
Johnny Johanssen called upon his expressive nature and fortitude to dress models in a multitude of enlarged shapes, incandescent pops of colour and cinched in waists at her Paris show. First out was a band of oversized snug mohair looks, a series of quilted pieces hung off the shoulders of models and boiled tweed coats detained at the waist to conserve the brand’s signature look. Patchwork cheetah print came in to play half way through the show in canary yellow, and boyish blue, featuring on soft collared coats and manipulated in to translucent close-knit sleeves. Footwear occurred in the form of tray beds affixed to the underneath of model’s feet complete with silver toe ring and expanded patent thigh high boots. Next season expect to see the Acne girl in mini quilted puffer jackets and oversized rubber trench coats.
Plush, velvety goodness was the theme of Haider Ackermann’s AW16 show, exposing every colour under the velour sun. Everything was covered in fuzz, from the skinny, skinny ankle grazing trousers- a signature of Ackermann’s- to the cropped suit jackets and slinky thigh revealing evening gowns, which gave a touchy feely aspect to the show. An audacious colour palette of blood orange, emerald green, lustrous pink and a burnished gold jacquard print featured on a two-piece trouser suit stormed the carpeted runway. The metallic and velvet close-fitting tailoring worn with nothing underneath exuded luxe, but also wouldn’t look out of place in a box of Quality Street at the same time.