Wonderland.

PFW: Day 4 Roundup AW16

We break down all the best action from the shows in Paris.

Loewe

The Spanish luxury leather house known for its distinct modernism and supple leather accessories focused on gold for their AW16 collection. The colour palette included sandy beige, khaki and a rich tan leather displayed as pleated skirts with inverted hemlines and a midi length dress made entirely of rubber bands (we’d recommend a slip dress underneath for ventures outside). Jewellery tied looks together, boasting caged gold ringed chokers and whimsical life size feline head pendants made from perspex, swinging from the models necks like a medal they’d won at a show. Raw edged hems came from shaggy knitwear two pieces, a checked print blue one catching the attention of many, came with a matching frayed holdall in tow. Sharp sweetheart bodices acted as gold breastplates layered on top of silk distressed skirts, inducing an accentuated silhouette, refined by pointed heels paired with translucent socks, adding a refined spontaneity to the collection.

Julien David

Julien David’s AW16 collection began with cleanliness. Clean lines, clean colours and whites that would put fear into any spag bol eater’s eyes. Crisp shirts teamed with bonded denim, some featuring darker appliquéd knee patches, and knee length 3-D padded square skirts created technical basics that incorporated shiny black boyfriend coats and plum denim looks. For phase two of the show, David’s staple work wear looks evolved in to an abundance of multicolour. Long, structured coats came masked in anime print from the cartoon Grendizer, along with boat neck sweatshirts and a loungewear jumpsuit. Aluminium coated jersey came towards the end of the presentation with a plethora of pockets and boxy shapes, including white faux leather in the form of neatly collared shirts and topped off with spaceman platform boots, incorporating futuristic elements and textures in to the show.

Christian Dior

The AW16 collection was a much-anticipated one as Dior’s studio team have been the one’s keeping the seats warm since creative director Raf Simon’s departure earlier this year. For temps, they did an above average job, managing to put together a collection that represented the wardrobe of a young working woman. Black was a reoccurring theme, with the first six looks (pencil skirts, thigh high slits and soft suit jackets) to emerge not featuring an ounce of colour, apart from a slither of a yellow collar. This progressed in to cocktail dresses festooned with garish vintage gems, a floral, Grandma’s living room-type print fashioned in to high neck blouses, flouncing midi length skirts and matching two piece suits. An enlarged V-neck theme ran throughout, mostly featured on fur-topped coats, hanging on to the models’ shoulders giving a relaxed silhouette. The collection will no doubt be given a revamp next season from a fresh pair of creative eyes but until then the studio team were a worthy fill in.

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto removed all colour from his AW16 show, narrowing the palette to a sombre black, white and grey. Piecing together different structures of garments, the silhouette was long and streamline, Yamamoto kept it minimal with light layering that subtracted any volume from the show. Monochrome pieces came in the form of elongated duster coats, a grey and black ombre offering from two looks and an unrefined cropped jacket with un-conforming sleeves draped by it’s side, as if they were detached entirely. The show closed with coats varnished with phrases such as “I Will Be Back Soon” and “Stop Me Before I Fuck Again” plastered on the reverse of a sweatshirt, a feature not dissimilar to the ones seen a day earlier at the Vetements show.

Words
Frankie Lee
PFW | Day 4 Roundup AW16

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