Rick Owens AW16
PFW: Day 3 Roundup AW16
Everything you need to know from Paris Fashion Week’s day 3.
Never one to be boring, Rick Owens sent a spectrum of models striding down the runway encased in candyfloss esque nests of hair on Thursday. Minus the human backpacks (see SS16), Owens named his collection ‘Mastodon’, a species of mammoth, now extinct due to climate change and expressed his “uneasiness about environmental change.” The high impact hairballs were an extension of the long, furry attire that concealed the models from head to toe, an ensemble guaranteed to keep you warm in the winter if you’re audacious enough to wear it. Wrinkled leather elbow length gloves mirrored Owens’ staple boots and fabrics swarmed the body in burnt rust, murky grey and off-whites with each garment hand draped to create duvet-like padding. Structured coats with sheer panelling, strapless dresses and velvet capes appeared in a mint menthol green adding a refreshing tone to the show. Adopting a sense of minimalism, it was more noticeably tame than his previous presentations.
Vetements enlisted a band of Instagram folk and a few familiar faces to showcase their AW16 show at the American Cathedral in Paris. The location was fitting for the earthy brown ruffle sleeved mini dress with a white lace collar and cropped black fringe, channelling a catholic monk that Demna Gvasalia produced as his first look. A simple white sweatshirt inscribed with “FUCK’N ASSHOLE” was the first of many tongue in cheek slogan streetwear including “MAY THE BRIDGES I BURN LIGHT THE WAY” and “SEXUAL FANTASIES” to embrace the catwalk. Non-traditional tailoring and straight edges came in the form of dishevelled suit jackets in old school checks and velvets that were hunchbacked, sinking the models heads into their necks and accessorized with over the knee sports socks. A violent purple oversized bomber jacket with “DRINK FROM ME AND LIVE FOREVER” emblazoned down the sleeve indicated that the Vetements wave has no signs of crashing just yet.
Olivier Rousteing doesn’t need any help in gaining any more of a celeb following than he already boasts. With a pervasive social media presence and an adopted member of the Kardashian clan, there’s no escaping Balmain. The focus of their AW16 show was rigid corsetry. Thickset gold metal belts cinched in waists of brocaded powder blue blazers and sheer panel jumpsuits, accessorized with corresponding suede thigh high boots to establish the warrior-like Balmain woman. An antagonistic blonde Kendall and brunette Gigi lead the army out on the tiled catwalk that featured feathered mini skirts, descending ruffles, dresses hung with tassels and fluffy angoras. The milky blues turned into blush pinks, darkened navy and flashes of lively green. Rousteing’s skintight dresses were not left out either, some with mini crinolines attached and others with cut out busts, teamed with mohair turtlenecks. For the body conscious this is not, but it sure does ooze sexiness.
Ann Demeulemeester AW16
The colour-phobic among us would welcome Ann Demeulemeester’s noir coated AW16 collection with open arms. Black (obviously) was the theme of the night from newly appointed creative director, Sébastien Meunier, whose first time designing for the brand featured sleek tailored topcoats and draped silhouettes adorning the (black) runway. Administering multiple layers, Meunier added body to his collection and paired military jackets with polished line construction creating a relaxed silhouette for an off-duty ensemble. Occasional metallic and abstract prints emerged through the second half of the show in the form of masculine three-piece suits and slackened trousers, all finished off with lustrous brogues, polished to the point of perfection.