DIESEL BLACK GOLD

Starting the show in an all navy colour palette before progressing into black and white, Diesel Black Gold AW16 was all about strength in the house codes. Leather came in the shape of mini-kilts, paper bag waist skirts and a line skirts appliquéd with flowers, whilst jackets with a focus on zips and fastenings came in black sequins and thick felt. Tunic dresses with silver metal details also made an appearance, worn over thick knitted polo neck jumpers and footwear came in the shape of re-invented leather Wellington boots.

EMPORIO ARMANI

Emporio Armani’s AW16 collection goes by the name of “New Pop”. “The current revolution: classic style and digital designs. Today’s seduction: strength and determination. The Emporio Armani woman chooses a sharp, powerful language.” The collection itself played out as a series of PVC separates, neon bright accents, quilted backpacks, scuba-diver hoods, metallic shoes, velvet textures and cubist shape prints. “New” is the operative word for this collection, the Armani girl is ready to pop this AW16.

ICEBERG

Soundtracked by the disjointed sound of industrial hi-hats before a remix of “Encore Une Fois”, Peter Dundas’ Iceberg AW16 show was all about colour and texture. Silver foil pleated skirts, patchwork fur trousers, PVC coats, thick knitted jumper dresses, felt bucket hats, woollen tartan two piece ensembles and elongated quilted gilets. The must have item? A red white and black block coloured roll neck that spelt out “ICEBERG” across the chest, worn beneath a black bomber jacket.

VERSACE

Gigi, Jenner, Lynesi, Jordan, Jamie, Karlie – it’s safe to say Donatella bagged the best models for Versace AW16. Presenting a collection of classic Versace prints and vivid colour ways, we saw psychedelic suiting, coral and cornflower blue two-piece ensembles, patterned silk scoop neck dresses and wide leg trousers, ice-cream hued PVC outerwear and black leather created Versace backpacks. Walking to a bass-heavy industrial soundtrack, each model wore a 70s style hair and of course, killer heels.

ETRO

ETRO can always be relied upon for their elaborately vivid fabrics and patterns and this season proved no exception. That maximalist approach to textiles could be seen in a densely patterned panel on a leather Perfecto or, more dramatically, saturating whole outfits in a romantic wave of flowing bohemianism. Cuts came long and breezy, sometimes with ruffles for a soft, feminine look but, by way of contrast, there were also healthy splashes of punky tartan and even a hint of grunge via a baggy knit or two, fraying at the hem like some weathered vintage find. This time around the ETRO woman was free, easy, and a just a little bit rebellious – what more could you want?