What was the starting point for the collection?
I was inspired by a performance I saw in Sadler’s Wells called Sutra. Basically I think the concept is that we’re living in a society with lots of limitations. So how can we free ourselves and preserve our innocence and purity? So I did research on Interstellar and Transformers which is where I got the idea of the 3-d cutting on the collar and the lapel.
What is your favourite detail from the collection?
The 3-d cutting is really refined. I kinda want my client to have a unique point – kind of showing off but not so obviously.
Who are you designing for?
First of all, myself! I believe in the theory that outside in the world there are people thinking like me – there are a million people like me. That bunch of people are the ones I’m designing for. Very refined, very quiet in a way but also very powerful inside. If you take a celebrity…I would say Hurts, the band. They are who I’m aiming for because in their videos and shows it’s nothing too crazy but it’s very refined and attractive.
So were Hurts on the stereo when you were designing? What were your top three songs to play in the studio?
One of my favourite songs is ‘Silver Lining’ but then it got too much. Then I listened to a lot of ‘Wonderful Life’ and pretty much every song from their new album.
Where did you study?
CSM, with a BA in print. I graduated in 2014 so this is only my third collection?
How do you move from one collection to the next? Do you scrap it all each time or try and build?
I try to build little by little. But for the first few collections I wanted to have a really naïve strategy which was not to listen too much to buyers or press. I just wanted to do whatever crossed my mind during that period but with my favourite materials and techniques (which are hem work and Swarovski). After these two collections I got a lot of feedback (people either hate it or love it). So, I did Shanghai Fashion Week in October last year and then after that I took a week off just talking to myself and reviewing all the feedback and all the things I’ve heard from previous collections. Then I did a whole branding refreshment. So what you see now is a completely new direction and I think I’ve found my own language in the industry already. I want to develop my language little-by-little, I don’t want to show it all at once – that might be too much going on. I think it will be interesting for people to see a brand growing slowly.