Wonderland.

60 SECONDS WITH FASHION EAST

Just hours before LC:M begins, we undertake lightning-speed chats with some of the designers at Fashion East.

ALAN CROCETTI

What has inspired you for AW15?

The corporate world – it’s about dominance and submission and the utter lust of strong men who hide a vulnerable and sensitive side.

Are there any particular artists/design archives/cities/places that you have referenced in particular this season?

Guy Laramee’s carved book landscape has indirectly influenced a segment in the collection and New York was definitely the place.

What has been the soundtrack for this collection?

Autre Ne Veut – ‘Counting’

How does AW15 compare to your last collection?

The last collection was somehow industrial and the new one is more romantic.

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY

What has inspired you for AW15?

I started looking at how American sportswear has been appropriated and reinterpreted by Japanese street culture. I thought of how I could do something similar by making a new interpretation on garments that are seen as classically Japanese, but remaking them in a way that is modern, edited and applicable to contemporary menswear. For example, we took a classic mens haori (cropped kimono) shape, but have made it in padded technical silk, added ribs and topstitching and squeezing the proportions.

Are there any particular artists/design archives/cities/places that you have referenced in particular this season?

Borneo was also a key inspiration. There are references reed baskets and woven blankets throughout the fabrics. We also have some amazing embroidered patches that perfectly mix this feeling of Japanese traditionalism with a more raw, fresh tribal feeling.

What has been the soundtrack for this collection?

Kanye’s reworking for Lorde’s ‘Yellow Flicker Beat’ has been on constant repeat for the last two months. Perfectly embodies the ‘spookiness’ that’s at the core of this collection.

How does AW15 compare to your last collection?

The strong graphic elements of last season are still there, but tempered but contrasts of solid colour, unusual textures and different levels of shine. The shapes are much more considered and varied, but still have a draped and sporty feeling at their core.

What sort of details can we expect?

Details have been totally stripped back in parts. Jackets have a new solid lapel, not buttons or exterior pockets. The tunic like under kimonos are also a minimal statement, but these contrast with cropped and boxy bowling shirts with mother of pearl buttons, tab and pleats.

Give us a sneak preview in three words…

Draped, Edited, Clothes.

MARQUES’ ALMEIDA

What has inspired you for AW15? (Answered by Alice Neale, who Marques’ Almeida collaborated with this season on Presentation, as well as John Colver on concept & photography)

A small photo of a butch but soft looking rodeo boy – with a glitzy red tint.

A long line of very excited boys wait to have their portrait taken behind the glitzy back drop. With hair by Gary Gill – looking at each of the boys characters and giving them the hair style that suits.

The stance a rodeo boy gives while having his portrait taken after a match is just so confident and brave. I wanted the photos to have a confidence while showing sensitivity.

Are there any particular artists/design archives/cities/places that you have referenced in particular this season?

The dark, difficult poetry of PJ Harvey’s music.

What has been the soundtrack for this collection?

Everything from PJ Harvey especially ‘Down By The Water’.