Airy and iridescent. Layers of lace and satin. Seductive. Elegant.
Then – those shoes. Lest we get hung up on ‘elegance,’ newcomer Nicky Zimmermann cues us into something more, something cooler, with patent-leather mules – black and bordeaux, emblazoned like the back of a tarot card with a crescent moon emblem. Then there are those silver hoop earrings, another hint – turns out, Zimmermann’s graceful SS15 girl has a bit of gypsy blood in her.
Black magic woman
The gypsy turns up reinvented in sheer, puffed sleeves, and gathered marbleised skirts, yet photographs do this collection no justice. These clothes were meant to move. With the exception of a few (very elegant) bodysuits – all even these had fluttering frills – it would be impossible to find a look that didn’t yield a highly satisfying bounce with every step.
Asymmetrical hemlines and layered froth made for a rippling of confectionary fabrics, and even stiff-looking pleats had the gift of magic.
Consider Banal Plus, W‘s recent interpretation of the sweats-and-sneakers “normcore” trend as the standard W aesthetic, paired with Nike socks and sandals: that is, everything how it should be, with the one with one thing (slightly) off.
Although here was no Banal, there was certainly that ‘one thing off.’ There was the glittering button-down, tucked in with the buttons off-centre; the open, belted trench coat, rakishly spilt over an exposed shoulder; the cinched lace dress, with the fabric bunched up droopily over the waistline – a hint of dishevelment in every look.
It was the effect of a perfect dress, with a fallen spaghetti strap. It was ‘Disheveled Plus.’
Words: Seymour Glass.