Unusual models and reworked textures were the order of the day at Margiela.
Quirky casting choices were the order of the day at the menswear shows, from Agi & Sam’s ruddy-cheeked OAP to the Dolce & Gabanna boys, sourced from Sicilian villages not unlike the one Domenico Dolce grew up in. Maison Martin Margiela, always known for its unusual casting, was no different.
As a Bach remix played, musicians like Death in Vegas’ Richard Fearless lent the clothes an aura of being lived in, offsetting the luxury aspect of the collection. Oilskin, glossy leather and plush fur melded into patchwork capes and ponchos all hinted at the signature Margiela utilitarianism. Of course, since their H&M collaboration, that utilitarianism is much more common these days – but who can blame the high street for wanting a bit of Margiela? As this collection showed, the once-obscure and underground label is still pumping out the hits.
Words: Zing Tsjeng
Images: Harry Carr