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Saint Laurent sure loves being contrary. For his first autumn/winter RTW collection, contrarian extraordinaire Hedi Slimane gave us proper lesson in house evolution with a Saint Laurent collection that added a pleasant dose of rebellious grunge. The connecting thread lies, of course, within the attitude of Saint Laurent woman – she’s a smart, independent, fast-talking dame, who stands where she pleases and blows smoke in the face of her adversaries.

But instead of demure, Marlene Dietrich le smoking jackets of YSL past, it’s the grunge tartans and biker chick leathers of Saint Laurent present. A black dress constructed of bands of leather strips emphasises the bare essentials of modern womenswear. Tartan and floral print dresses with Peter Pan collars were given a Saint Laurent punch with empire waists and black boots, adding a Gothic twist to otherwise cutesy forms. From bejewelled, studded hotpants paired with floral blouse and a luscious fur coat, to a sheer, skimpy slip dress with oversized tartan jacket, the AW13 Saint Laurent woman brings the contrarian full circle from woman debonaire to anti-establisment dreamer.

Whether or not you like it (and some, like Cathy Horyn, didn’t), one thing’s for certain – to remake the much-loved image of a YSL woman takes guts. We’ll just have to wait and see what Hedi does next.

Words: Elise Marraro
Images: Harry Carr

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1. “Hedi at

Saint Laurent…”

The four words guaranteed to elicit a lengthy monologue from anyone in fashion. NYT critic  slammed the grunge-inspired collection, labelling it a show of “lazy values”. Lisa Armstrong from The Telegraph was puzzled: “I’m not sure Slimane has complete confidence in the understated power of his tailoring to carry him through.” FROW starlets like Kirsten Dunst and Sky Ferreira loved it. In short, it was the collection everyone has an opinion on – and you can’t buy that kind of publicity. Well played, Hedi, well played.

2. “Did you hear Antony Hegarty at Givenchy? Di-vine.”

The Antony & The Johnsons singer is more known for his musical chops and impeccable curating skills (see: last year’s Meltdown festival at the Southbank), but he’s also struck up an unlikely friendship with Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci. The designer, who once described the singer as “a mixture of Klaus Nomi and Edith Piaf”, chose Hegarty to soundtrack his autumn/winter show, kicking off with a transcendental rendition of ‘You Are My Sister‘. More of this, less pounding techno, please.

3. “So I see Kate’s back on the runway – but only for her BFF Marc, obvs.”

Kate Moss hasn’t been in a show since 2011, when Marc Jacobs famously revealed that she specially requested to walk in Vuitton spring/summer 2012 (left). Lo and behold, she appeared again in Jacobs’ autumn/winter show, wearing a see-through embroidered slip and a cropped wig and upstaging a certain Ms Delevingne – though apparently Moss been the night before. Some things never change.

4. “OMG, the Starbucks van outside Kenzo literally saved my life. Literally.”

The temperature might hover under ten degrees but you’ll never catch some fashion folk stepping out in sensible tights or jumpers. What would their mums say? Kenzo pre-empted the call of maternal concern and kept everyone warm with logo-emblazoned blankets and a Starbucks van outside the venue. Thanks Mum.

5. “Did you catch the Valentino show? They’re doing everything right.”

Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli offered us feminine fairytale mystique in one of the strongest shows of the season. Looking at paintings by Flemish masters such as Girl With A Pearl Earring, the two delivered a collection that builds on their strengths but still pushes their vision into new directions. So there were the gorgeous dresses and gowns they’ve built their rep on, but these were shortened and the silhouettes streamlined and austere. Sublime.

6. “Cher. No. Words.”

No, we really don’t think you’re strong enough – at least judging from the Twitter reactions at the Gareth Pugh to the sight of Cher resplendent in a giant hoop earrings and a don’t-give-a-fuck smile. You know those front row faces that nervous PRs beg, gift and (occasionally) pay to turn up? All of them, outshone in a single moment. Beautiful. And it looks like her penchant for out-there headgear hasn’t abated, either.

Words: Zing Tsjeng

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Sky Ferreira – Everything Is Embarrassing (Unicorn Kid Remix) by Sky Ferreira Official

Tell us about your change of direction since ‘One‘.

I got signed when I was 15, and I had a lot of people telling me what I should do, and I didn’t necessarily agree with it but I was like, “I guess I’ll try it”. After ‘One’, they were like, “Oh your song didn’t do well…” It got attention, but it didn’t sell anything, which was actually for the best, because I don’t think I really wanted to make that kind of music to begin with.

It was a great track though.

It was a great track – totally. I don’t regret it.

Tell us how you hooked up with Dev Hynes for ‘Everything Is Embarrassing‘.

I met Dev Hynes through mutual friends. We were always trying to work together. My publicist sent it to Pitchfork and they posted it and made it best new track, and it got traction from there.

Your album will be dropping later this year. You’re like a Cassie figure – the longer you’ve been away, the more the mystique and expectation have built.

Yeah, that’s why I have to make sure it’s good! Some people might be disappointed because it’s not ‘One’ or ‘Obsession’, but there are still a lot of pop elements in it. It’s a lot more guitar driven, there are acoustic songs and it’s very stripped down. A lazy, easy comparison would be Blondie.

Who have you been collaborating with on this one?

I worked with Jon Brion on half of it and then Ariel Rechtshaid on the other half. Ariel produced that Usher’s song ‘Climax’, which is completely different to what we’re doing, and then he did Vampire Weekend. Jon Brion did Elliott Smith and Fiona Apple.

I was going to say that some of your new work has a bit of an early Fiona Apple feel to it.

Yeah she’s a really big influence – always was. She was my number one idol as a kid. I’ve seen her play like 10 times, and I cried the second time. I cried at the front.

It was so embarrassing!

Discreet tears or full-on sobs?

I wasn’t sobbing. Definitely tears though!

A lot of your artwork and videos remind me of a young Vanessa Paradis.

Yeah, and Nastassja Kinski is a very big person for me. Vanessa Paradis as a teenager! She’s still glamorous. I love all that look of French girls, like Brigitte Bardot.

How did you get approached to be the face of Saint Laurent Paris?

Hedi Slimane and I met a few years ago, and always kept in touch. He took photos of me for his diary, then he did my artwork, and then asked me to do Saint Laurent. So yeah!

You’re touring North America with How To Dress Well. Great combo.

Yeah it’s going to be a cool tour I think. We have mutual friends, and we like each other’s music. We thought it’d be a fun tour.

What’s your go-to album at the moment?

Kendrick Lamar. That’s my favourite album of last year. I love his music, but I think it’s also the LA in me. I’m from Venice Beach. When I listen to him, I’m like “LA! Yay – repping the West Coast finally.”

Are you off to some Paris fashion shows whilst you’re here in Europe?

Yeah. I skipped New York fashion week this time, but I’m going to Givenchy and Saint Laurent next week. Riccardo Tisci was one of the first people – even during my whole break – who had me play his parties. He’s really supportive. And I’m playing a show at Silencio, David Lynch’s nightclub there.

Tell us what it’s like shooting with Mario Testino, Terry Richardson and Hedi Slimane.

They’re all quite different. Hedi’s thing is quite intimate, you know, and then Terry is just like my friend. We just hang out.

Is he still getting his dick out all the time?

I think he’s stopped that – too much commercial work! And Testino’s a bit more glamorous. That’s like shooting like a diva.

Sky Ferreira’s EP Everything is Embarrassing will be released 8th April on Polydor. She plays tonight at White Heat and tomorrow at XOYO, London. skyferreira.tumblr.com

Words: Stuart Brumfitt

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Most likely to set off metal detectors in airports: Tom Ford
Karlina Caune photographed by Tom Ford.

“I’m sorry, ma’am, I’m going to have to ask you to step aside.”

Most likely to come runner-up in Splash: Hermès
Iselin Steiro photographed by Nathaniel Goldberg.

We’re not the only ones who were disappointed Tom Daley didn’t spend the entire show with his top off, right?

Most likely to sing This Charming Man at karaoke: Saint Laurent Paris
Edie Campbell photographed by Hedi Slimane.

“Ugh, Eye of the Tiger is NOT an indie song.”

Most likely to secretly be a Magic Eye illusion: Louis Vuitton
Janice Alida, Athena Wilson, Bria Condon, Magdalena Jasek, Ji Hye Park, Tian Yi,
Ruby Jean Wilson, and Nastya Kusakina photographed by Steven Meisel.

If you squint hard enough, Ji Hye turns into a giant 3D horse.

Most likely to stare unceasingly into your eyes and call it ‘art’: Givenchy
Marina Abramovic and Mariacarla Boscono photographed by Mert and Marcus.

Seriously, Abramovic, quit with the creepy eyes.

Most likely to be the flaky friend who never wants to go out: Chanel
Stella Tennant and Ondria Hardin photographed by Karl Lagerfeld.

“Soho House again? Um… I’ve got a migraine, babes. You have fun without me.”

Most likely to be the product of helicopter parenting: Burberry
Romeo Beckham, Charlie France and Edie Campbell photographed by Mario Testino.

Victoria on location: “So after this shoot, Romeo, you’re scheduled for flute practice, swimming class, Mandarin lessons and then two hours of interview prep for Eton.”

Most likely to turn up to a family funeral wearing something inappropriate: Dolce & Gabbana
Photographed by Domenico Dolce.

“But this see-through black tulle dress is what Uncle Keith would’ve wanted.”

Most likely to be really into the cover of David Bowie’s new album: Proenza Schouler
Julia Nobis photographed by David Sims.

The resemblance is uncanny.

Most likely to have a Wallpaper subscription: Alexander McQueen
Raquel Zimmermann photographed by David Sims.

“I love lamp.”

Most likely Tilda Swinton fan: Alexander Wang
Malgosia Bela photographed by Steven Klein.

“Watching Orlando changed, like, my whole outlook on gender.”

Most likely to be into #seapunk: Mulberry
Meghan Collison photographed by Tim Walker.

“Let’s get wavvy, guys!”

Most likely to spend way too long in the toilet: Marc by Marc Jacobs
Photographed by Juergen Teller.

“What the hell is he DOING in there? Someone get security.”

Most glamorous Women’s Institute meeting ever: Miu Miu
Bette Franke, Adriana Lima, Doutzen Kroes, and Malgosia Bela photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.

“Alright ladies, first things first: smash the patriarchy, then we can get mani-pedis.”

Most likely to have Louis Smith as a fitness idol: Kenzo
Ming Xi and Jester White photographed by Jean Paul Goude.

“Rio 2016, here we come!”

Words: Zing Tsjeng

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