Marc by Marc Jacobs Archives | Wonderland https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/tag/marc-by-marc-jacobs/ Wonderland is an international, independently published magazine offering a unique perspective on the best new and established talent across all popular culture: fashion, film, music and art. Thu, 22 Sep 2016 14:26:46 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.3.1 7 Wonders: Marc by Marc Jacobs Campaigns /2015/03/24/marc-by-marc-jacobs-campaigns/ Tue, 24 Mar 2015 15:39:56 +0000 http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/?p=47716 As one of our favourite full-time-fun lines, Marc by Marc Jacobs, merges with the brand’s mainline, we recap on their best campaigns from the last 15 years. Announced yesterday, Marc by Marc Jacobs is closing after showing one final collection at NYFW this season. If like us, you fell for the playful traits of the covetable […]

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As one of our favourite full-time-fun lines, Marc by Marc Jacobs, merges with the brand’s mainline, we recap on their best campaigns from the last 15 years.

Screen Shot 2015-03-24 at 15.34.48

Announced yesterday, Marc by Marc Jacobs is closing after showing one final collection at NYFW this season. If like us, you fell for the playful traits of the covetable line, you’ll already have your favourite campaigns pinned up on the walls, here’s our pick of the best.

SS08 – MIA

MIAMarcbyMarcJacobsAdDeeRicky

The original bad girl MIA got to dress up as one of the boys for 2008 and was sporting one of Dee & Ricky’s lego belts that Jacobs used in an NYC show. She starred alongside Victoria Beckham and Harmony Korine and in an interview with Paper magazine, made a point to comment on the fact that previously she hadn’t even been allowed inside a Marc Jacobs party.

AW09

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Having always championed young emerging models, Marc by Marc Jacobs took on Yuri Pleksun in 2009. Looking achingly cool sat atop some weights, in a suit, of course and next to a bed so messy it could compete with Tracey Emin’s, Yuri fit in perfectly with the line’s young and carefree style and attitude.

SS11 – Eyewear

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Sherbet summer colours lit up the catwalk and the SS11 eleven campaign was shot backstage. Caroline Brasch Nielsen was the centre of the candy coloured shots and we all went out and bought oversized sunnies and *shudder* woven raffia accessories.

AW11

lowelltautchin-mj1

Lowell Tautchin looks like a version of Clark Kent in this hotel room shoot. Finding the extraordinary in the ordinary has always by Marc by Marc Jacobs’ vibe, taking designer and making it accessible. Business doesn’t have to be boring.

SS12 – Alice Dellal

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Alice Dellal and Erik Andersson were snapped up by Jacobs for the SS12 campaign. The half-Brazilian model and general ‘it’ girl took on a manly approach for a gender-bending campaign in which Erik got to put on a dress. Long hair don’t care all round.

SS13

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We’re back with the toilet themes again for SS13 from Marc Jacobs mainline SS10. Of course a handwritten graffitied collection needs a similar setting, the models nearly blend in, somehow, amongst all that erratic colour, equalising the clothes and graffiti on the same level as everyday art you’ll see in the street.

SS15 – Cast Me Marc #2

cast me marc

After turning to social media once in 2014, Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier did the same again for what we guess will be the line’s penultimate campaign. Cast Me Marc found models on Instagram from over 70,000 entries the first time around.

Words: Lily Walker

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Marc by Marc Jacobs Comes to an End /2015/03/23/marc-by-marc-jacobs-comes-to-an-end/ Mon, 23 Mar 2015 15:22:11 +0000 http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/?p=29591 As Marc by Marc Jacobs merges with the Marc Jacobs mainline, we take a look back at Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier’s debut AW14 collection styled by Matthew Josephs. Senait wears red and navy acetate rally motocross print sweater and black cotton bynx jersey turtleneck both by Marc by Marc Jacobs. Yumi wears cotton bynx […]

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As Marc by Marc Jacobs merges with the Marc Jacobs mainline, we take a look back at Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier’s debut AW14 collection styled by Matthew Josephs.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Luella Bertley & Katie Hillier

Senait wears red and navy acetate rally motocross print sweater and black cotton bynx jersey turtleneck both by Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Luella Bertley & Katie Hillier

Yumi wears cotton bynx jersey turtleneck and royal navy blue modal rally motocross sweater both by Marc by Marc Jacobs and pink and green plastic earing stylists own.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Luella Bertley & Katie Hillier

Senait wears multicolour satin tiger claw jacket and multicolour polyester tribal print t-shirt and black cotton motocross trousers all Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Luella Bertley & Katie Hillier

Yumi wears multicolour modal rally motocross sweater and red and blue polyester motocross pants both by Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Hair Stylist: Dennis DeVoy at Art Department/Lesley

Makeup Artist: Sam Addington at Kramer+Kramer

Assistance: Reto Sterchi

Digital Technician: Drew St Ivany

Models: Senait Gidey and Yumi Lambert at IMG Model Management

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Marc by Marc Jacobs & the Irony of Revolutionary Chic /2015/02/19/marc-marc-jacobs-irony-revolutionary-chic/ Thu, 19 Feb 2015 16:00:40 +0000 http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/?p=44876 Seymour Glass dissects ‘Revolutionary Chic’ and fashion’s relationship with youth culture, politics and cultural change. Studded berets, utilitarian pockets galore, and mixed radio signals on the guerrilla station overhead.  Through the label’s characteristic language of fun, color and youthful wit, Marc by Marc Jacobs’s new collection touted a revolutionary message, summarized throughout on embroidered patches […]

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Seymour Glass dissects ‘Revolutionary Chic’ and fashion’s relationship with youth culture, politics and cultural change.

Copyright 2006 Phoebe Cheong, all rights reserved

Studded berets, utilitarian pockets galore, and mixed radio signals on the guerrilla station overhead.  Through the label’s characteristic language of fun, color and youthful wit, Marc by Marc Jacobs’s new collection touted a revolutionary message, summarized throughout on embroidered patches which read, “Solidarity,” “Suffrage,” and “Unite.”  But as the models marched to T.Rex’s 1972 teen rebel anthem, “Children of the Revolution,” the question arose: Are we a generation of revolutionaries – or impostors?

Revolutionary chic is no new concept.  Just last season Chanel staged a pseudo-feminist protest for SS15, with tweed-clad models bellowing into megaphones, waving signs like, “Ladies First”; and we all know Vivienne Westwood has made a career of backing political messages with her Brit-punk aesthetic.

But the irony of revolution-themed fashion is fairly obvious: A sweater might say “Solidarity” on the outside, but if it also says “Marc by Marc Jacobs” on the inside, then to purchase it propagates a multibillion dollar fashion industry – and really, how revolutionary is that?  In other words, what does it mean to buy a sweater that makes you LOOK like a revolutionary, when the single act of buying it reaffirms your identity as a cog in the capitalist machine?

Of the collection, designer Luella Bartney brushed off serious political implications, explaining, “It’s more about youth culture than it is about politics.  It’s about harnessing the energy and the positivity of youth and that feeling that when you’re young, you can change the world.”  Politically correct reasoning, perhaps, but despite her apparent willingness to evoke suffrage as a mere fashion trend, she and co-designer Katie Hillier seemed to have tapped into a very real and powerful characteristic of our generation.

In the past, youth fashion has frequently had a symbiotic relationship with cultural change.  Just look at young women in the twenties, for whom boyish dresses and bobbed hair represented support for women’s liberation, in the midst of the suffragette movement.  Ditto for the sixties counterculture, in which flower garlands and bell bottoms became ‘groovy’ trends at least in part because hippy fashion supported an anti-war ideology.

Our modern high-fashion incarnations of revolutionary chic, however, exist merely for the sake of fashion.  If the twenties had women’s rights, and the sixties had Vietnam – what do we have?  An aesthetic?, committed neither to cause nor action?  Unless you count our adoption of social media a ‘social cause,’ when was the last time you heard our generation regarded as the forebears of a significant cultural revolution?

There’s a constant feminist dialogue, of course, and thanks to Occupy Wall Street – that short-lived, vaguely articulated attack on the so-called 1% – an occasional murmur over deeply felt economic crises – but those battles play out passively over blog posts, and can hardly be considered ‘movements.’

Maybe that’s why designers still turn to a 60s aesthetic to signify ‘revolution’ – because the modern equivalent has yet to materialize.

All of which is to say that new season of Marc by Marc Jacobs has tapped profoundly into the pathos of our apolitical generation.  On some level, we do seek to ‘make a change’ – this impulse explains our fondness for crowdfunding sites like Kickstarter and Indiegogo – yet how far do we really go?  Do we start a revolution for the causes that we believe in?, or do we buy a sweater that reads boldly, ‘Solidarity’ and wear it while we click away at our laptops, and occasionally ‘Like’ a political cause on social media?

Either way, nice berets, and we look forward to seeing them on the street-style set, maybe paired with a megaphone as a fashion accessory.

 

Copyright 2006 Phoebe Cheong, all rights reserved

Copyright 2006 Phoebe Cheong, all rights reserved

Copyright 2006 Phoebe Cheong, all rights reserved

Copyright 2006 Phoebe Cheong, all rights reserved

Copyright 2006 Phoebe Cheong, all rights reserved

Copyright 2006 Phoebe Cheong, all rights reserved

Words: Seymour Glass.

Photographer: Phoebe Cheong.

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6 Reasons To Be Excited About Luella Bartley at Marc by Marc Jacobs /2013/05/31/6-reasons-to-be-excited-about-luella-bartley-at-marc-by-marc-jacobs/ Fri, 31 May 2013 16:38:20 +0000 http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/?p=19618 Luella Bartley will design the line’s womenswear collection. Where do we sign up? 1. It’s Bartley’s big return to fashion Everyone figured she was gone for good after her line ceased trading in 2009 – after all, she told the Sunday Times that she was “happy to be out”. At the height of its powers, […]

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Luella Bartley will design the line’s womenswear collection. Where do we sign up?

Luella Bartley backstage with models

1. It’s Bartley’s big return to fashion

Everyone figured she was gone for good after her line ceased trading in 2009 – after all, she told the Sunday Times that she was “happy to be out”. At the height of its powers, Luella was making £9m a year and attracting celebrity fans like Gwyneth Paltrow, Sienna Miller and Lily Allen.

Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier

2. It’s a British fashion dream team

Bartley joins Katie Hillier (right) at the helm of the label, and the btwo go way back: the latter cut her teeth on her friend (and mentor’s) eponymous line. So when Hillier was appointed by Marc Jacobs as creative director, Bartley was the first person she tapped as the new design director. Leaning in, Sheryl Sandberg style.

Daisy Lowe Marc by Marc Jacobs ad

3. Marc by Marc Jacobs needed a shake-up

Robert Duffy, the CEO of Marc Jacobs, openly admits that the line had gotten “a bit stale”. The diffusion line started out strong in 2000 but has struggled of late. “We rested on our laurels and it hurt us,” Duffy says. Plus, the appointment will let Jacobs concentrate on Vuitton, which, as far as we’re concerned can only be a good thing.

Luella Spring/Summer 2010

4. We miss the Luella girl

The eccentric, rock’n’roll English rose in the cut-out heart dress? Basically, the person every girl at a British festival tries to channel every year? Luella pretty much invented that. It is a little-known fact that Alexa Chung didn’t not exist before Luella. Truth.

Mulberry Gisele handbag Luella

5. Just think of the fucking bags, man

Remember this beauty? Bartley pretty much brought Mulberry back from the brink thanks to the Gisele. Meanwhile, Hillier cut her teeth on accessories and co-created Victoria Beckham‘s initial collection of bags (which promptly sold out). Who knows what they’ll create together?

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6. British style at Marc by Marc Jacobs? Yes please!

Quoth Bartley: “English style at its best is totally natural, fiercely individual and girlishly contrary. It can be funny, tough, sexy, clever and peverse, all at the same time.” Marc Jacobs is the man who put Victoria Beckham in a paper bag. It’s a perfect match.

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7 Wonders: Spring 2013 fashion campaigns, decoded /2013/01/26/7-wonders-spring-2013-fashion-campaigns-decoded/ Sat, 26 Jan 2013 00:21:36 +0000 http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/?p=13368 The Spring 2013 campaigns are here, and they’re taking the Internet by storm. But hidden depths lurk in these glossy ads, whether they be Chanel, Miu Miu or Mulberry. We decode the campaigns for you… Most likely to set off metal detectors in airports: Tom Ford Karlina Caune photographed by Tom Ford. “I’m sorry, ma’am, I’m […]

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The Spring 2013 campaigns are here, and they’re taking the Internet by storm. But hidden depths lurk in these glossy ads, whether they be Chanel, Miu Miu or Mulberry. We decode the campaigns for you…

Most likely to set off metal detectors in airports: Tom Ford
Karlina Caune photographed by Tom Ford.

“I’m sorry, ma’am, I’m going to have to ask you to step aside.”

Most likely to come runner-up in Splash: Hermès
Iselin Steiro photographed by Nathaniel Goldberg.

We’re not the only ones who were disappointed Tom Daley didn’t spend the entire show with his top off, right?

Most likely to sing This Charming Man at karaoke: Saint Laurent Paris
Edie Campbell photographed by Hedi Slimane.

“Ugh, Eye of the Tiger is NOT an indie song.”

Louis Vuitton Spring 2013

Most likely to secretly be a Magic Eye illusion: Louis Vuitton
Janice Alida, Athena Wilson, Bria Condon, Magdalena Jasek, Ji Hye Park, Tian Yi,
Ruby Jean Wilson, and Nastya Kusakina photographed by Steven Meisel.

If you squint hard enough, Ji Hye turns into a giant 3D horse.

Givenchy Spring 2013

Most likely to stare unceasingly into your eyes and call it ‘art’: Givenchy
Marina Abramovic and Mariacarla Boscono photographed by Mert and Marcus.

Seriously, Abramovic, quit with the creepy eyes.

Chanel Spring 2013

Most likely to be the flaky friend who never wants to go out: Chanel
Stella Tennant and Ondria Hardin photographed by Karl Lagerfeld.

“Soho House again? Um… I’ve got a migraine, babes. You have fun without me.”

Burberry Spring 2013

Most likely to be the product of helicopter parenting: Burberry
Romeo Beckham, Charlie France and Edie Campbell photographed by Mario Testino.

Victoria on location: “So after this shoot, Romeo, you’re scheduled for flute practice, swimming class, Mandarin lessons and then two hours of interview prep for Eton.”

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2013

Most likely to turn up to a family funeral wearing something inappropriate: Dolce & Gabbana
Photographed by Domenico Dolce.

“But this see-through black tulle dress is what Uncle Keith would’ve wanted.”

Proenza Schouler Spring 2013

Most likely to be really into the cover of David Bowie’s new album: Proenza Schouler
Julia Nobis photographed by David Sims.

The resemblance is uncanny.

Alexander McQueen Spring 2013

Most likely to have a Wallpaper subscription: Alexander McQueen
Raquel Zimmermann photographed by David Sims.

“I love lamp.”

Alexander Wang Spring 2013

Most likely Tilda Swinton fan: Alexander Wang
Malgosia Bela photographed by Steven Klein.

“Watching Orlando changed, like, my whole outlook on gender.”

Mulberry Spring 2013

Most likely to be into #seapunk: Mulberry
Meghan Collison photographed by Tim Walker.

“Let’s get wavvy, guys!”

Most likely to spend way too long in the toilet: Marc by Marc Jacobs
Photographed by Juergen Teller.

“What the hell is he DOING in there? Someone get security.”

Miu Miu Spring 2013

Most glamorous Women’s Institute meeting ever: Miu Miu
Bette Franke, Adriana Lima, Doutzen Kroes, and Malgosia Bela photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.

“Alright ladies, first things first: smash the patriarchy, then we can get mani-pedis.”

Kenzo Spring 2013

Most likely to have Louis Smith as a fitness idol: Kenzo
Ming Xi and Jester White photographed by Jean Paul Goude.

“Rio 2016, here we come!”

Words: Zing Tsjeng

 

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