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Drowning

At the top of Raimund Berthold’s show notes reads the word “drowning”, although the subject matter isn’t quite that depressing, it gives you an idea of what’s to come. Protective textures of rubber and coated cotton to save you from the wet were on just about everything. While we’re on the aquatic theme, shapes were flowing with the stand out sleeveless coat rippling from shoulder to ankle.

Sunny side up

Aside from the obligatory charcoal black, the only colour on show at Berthold was sunshine yellow. Sure to be a welcome feature come next winter, whole Dulux colour charts of warm yellow panned out over pieces in an earthy glow.

Life imitating art

Inspired by German artist Franz Erhard Walther, whose largest piece resurfaced at Art Basel last year, Berthold joined the artist in his questioning of art as a wall bound “thing”. Matching his style not only in his colour choice (a key piece of Walther’s is yellow), Berthold minimalism evokes similar feelings as Walther’s work.

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BERTHOLD AW16 Moodboard

We met Austrian menswear designer Raimund Berthold for the first time in the autumn over black coffee and almond croissants at his studio in the heart of Soho. With a moodboard that hung in the centre of the studio, he talked us through his progress so far on for AW16. An assortment of military gear (including a serious looking gas mask) and interestingly crafted thrift store life jackets on a rail, a perfect insight into the references that will come to shape his forthcoming collection.

Berthold’s style has been utilitarian since he began his label in 2010, post graduating from the Central Saint Martins. Using purpose-wear fabrics – both durable and innovative in production – Berthold plays with military-inspired shapes complimented by functional details. Think storm cuffs, oversized pockets and fastenings and openings where you may or may not need them.

Pre his AW16 presentation today at LC:M, we called up Berthold for a 60 Second chat about his inspirations and working process, and got him to make us a playlist of what’s been sound tracking the Soho studio this season.

BERTHOLD AW16 Moodboard

What’s your favourite season? And where in the world?

My favourite season is definitely winter. I grew up in the Austrian Alps so there was a lot of skiing and as a result, I’ve got a high constitution for cold weather. There’s nothing like the feeling of coasting down a slope, being sprayed with the fine dust of virgin snow. I love it.

How does art inspire your collections? 

Subconsciously. I’m always around or looking at art but never for inspiration. My design relationship to artworks isn’t as straightforward as that.

Do you have a favourite collection so far, or is each collection your favourite to date?

I don’t like looking back. Of course every season I have to think about what worked and what didn’t because of my customers, but my favourite collection is always the one I haven’t started yet.

How do you feel your style has developed over time?

The design process for me has always been about letting loose then going on to refine, perfect and then positively fuck it up. My style has become more reflective of these idiosyncrasies whilst working out what elegance means to a man.

What was the starting point for this collection?

Drowning

You have a very utilitarian style – what’s the most staple item in your wardrobe?

Oversized coats in beautiful materials. It means that I can wear (almost) anything underneath and it doesn’t really matter.

PEACHES – Pickles

PORTISHEAD – We Carry On

YEAH YEAH YEAHS – Dull Life

PLANNINGTOROCK – Doorway

PLANNINGTOROCK – #9

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It probably won’t have escaped your attention that this week is a big one for the (mostly) male population of our fair country. World Cup fever is officially taking over and this weekend also sees the start of London Collections: Men’s SS15 show season. Whilst we are used to looking to the future in the fashion industry, sometimes even a few days is an unbearable wait to feast one’s eyes on new gear. With that in mind, we caught up with the captain of the Berthold team to get an exclusive sneak preview of the brand’s upcoming SS15 collection. References to plastic, vintage rainwear and “aggressive stripes” are on the horizon, something we are rather intrigued about to say the least.

Where did you gain the inspiration for your upcoming SS15 collection?

I was looking at the Tokyo Impressions by photographer Michael Wolf – the images are beautiful and sad at the same time. They capture a moment in time when you want to be on your own, but cannot escape the city. My mood board naturally had a lot of references to plastic, either clear or molten, the texture of food wrapping and latex. As always I have been looking at the details of vintage rainwear and there are some photographs of insects too. Every season begins the same for me with a visual excursion through my books and the works of my favourite artists.

Your AW14 collection used pops of fuschia against a largely monochrome palette. What can we expect for SS15?

I have worked with the artist Tara Langford this season on some prints for this collection and I love the graphic tone of her work. There will be a black and white print of course and a “biro blue” print with some aggressive yellow stripes.

How do you think your Austrian upbringing has influenced your design aesthetic?

I grew up in a ski resort in the Alps, surrounded by ski and hiking wear and so for me it is always function over style, and style over colour when I design. And sometimes I just do what I want.

How do you plan to evolve the Berthold brand in the future?

We have been steadily growing and have made additions to the collection like bags in cotton, neoprene and leather and this season we’ve worked on a beautiful scarf. It is printed silk and cashmere and produced with Begg & Co. who have been weaving cashmere, silk and lambs wool angora yarns in Ayr, Scotland since 1866. I enjoy these collaborations and there will be definitely many more!

What are the biggest challenges for your brand in an ever-growing menswear market?

The biggest challenge is to just stay focused and edit. To keep the quality high and enjoy the process. Then the customers will appreciate it as much as you do.

Which other shows are you looking forward to seeing this season?

I only ever look at the collections once they have been shown. I’m not that interested in who is showing, as I am more interested in what they are showing. It’s more surprising that way. ‎

Other than LC:M, what else do you have planned for the year?

We will be at “Capsule” in Paris and also for the first time at “Seek” in Berlin, and we will have a big SS15 Launch Party during LC:M. Also we have been re-designing our website with Assembly and I’m excited to show people. I just hope that people enjoy what we do – otherwise, what’s the point?

Words: https: Jordan Porteous

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