We met Berthold ahead of today’s AW16 presentation to glean some insight on what inspired his new collection.
BERTHOLD AW16 Moodboard
BERTHOLD AW16 Moodboard
We met Austrian menswear designer Raimund Berthold for the first time in the autumn over black coffee and almond croissants at his studio in the heart of Soho. With a moodboard that hung in the centre of the studio, he talked us through his progress so far on for AW16. An assortment of military gear (including a serious looking gas mask) and interestingly crafted thrift store life jackets on a rail, a perfect insight into the references that will come to shape his forthcoming collection.
Berthold’s style has been utilitarian since he began his label in 2010, post graduating from the Central Saint Martins. Using purpose-wear fabrics – both durable and innovative in production – Berthold plays with military-inspired shapes complimented by functional details. Think storm cuffs, oversized pockets and fastenings and openings where you may or may not need them.
Pre his AW16 presentation today at LC:M, we called up Berthold for a 60 Second chat about his inspirations and working process, and got him to make us a playlist of what’s been sound tracking the Soho studio this season.
BERTHOLD AW16 Moodboard
BERTHOLD AW16 Moodboard
What’s your favourite season? And where in the world?
My favourite season is definitely winter. I grew up in the Austrian Alps so there was a lot of skiing and as a result, I’ve got a high constitution for cold weather. There’s nothing like the feeling of coasting down a slope, being sprayed with the fine dust of virgin snow. I love it.
How does art inspire your collections?
Subconsciously. I’m always around or looking at art but never for inspiration. My design relationship to artworks isn’t as straightforward as that.
Do you have a favourite collection so far, or is each collection your favourite to date?
I don’t like looking back. Of course every season I have to think about what worked and what didn’t because of my customers, but my favourite collection is always the one I haven’t started yet.
How do you feel your style has developed over time?
The design process for me has always been about letting loose then going on to refine, perfect and then positively fuck it up. My style has become more reflective of these idiosyncrasies whilst working out what elegance means to a man.
What was the starting point for this collection?
Drowning
You have a very utilitarian style – what’s the most staple item in your wardrobe?
Oversized coats in beautiful materials. It means that I can wear (almost) anything underneath and it doesn’t really matter.
PEACHES – Pickles
