James Long’s SS14 collection – which features boxing shorts, sheer mesh and laid back stripes – tells the story of a retired ring fighter who has embraced the island life of Ibiza with ghetto influences thrown in for good measure.  So far, so eccentric.

The collection – which features boxing shorts, sheer mesh and laid back stripes – tells the story of a retired ring fighter who has embraced the island life of Ibiza with ghetto influences thrown in for good measure.  So far, so eccentric.

The collection mirrors the strong, directional menswear that James Long has become renowned for, with a minor departure from leatherwork which has dominated past shows.  A slightly softer aesthetic was instead created with multi-coloured bubble quilting, which invoked the island loving hippie lifestyle of James’ sartorial character and retro sportswear inspired jumpers, while models wore metallic lanyards around their necks, which could be mistaken for festival VIP access.

Denim was frayed and distressed with elasticated waistbands, whilst colourful and distorted James Long logos emblazoned grey boxing shorts.  Models wore sliders with block colour socks, whist their hair was left long in Hanson-esque centre partings perhaps as a homage to the Messiah.  The colour palette was understandably eclectic but primary colours reigned supreme, with a bold pillar-box red dominating.

Metallic fabrics perforated the collection, with a crushed silver jacket reflecting the lights of the catwalk and providing an unexpected standout moment.  The bomber jacket shape championed by Long in his AW14 collection made another strong appearance in a variety of guises.  A rich navy satin bomber competed with a hessian inspired multi-coloured version which perfectly fused the hippie meets athlete aesthetic.

While the brief seems to amalgamate a variety of clashing visions, Long manages to weave them together to create a cohesive collection with a clear theme which is readable in every look.

Long live sports Jesus!

Words: Josie Ayre 

Photography: Amy Beasley

The post LCM: James Long SS15 appeared first on Wonderland.

Howell’s collections are ever an exercise in refined dressing with staple items stylistically tweaked from season to season to produce a wardrobe of viable options for the smartly dressed man and this seasons’ stylish and understated collection was by no means an exception.

The colour palette resided within earthy tones beginning with a homage to 50 shades of grey which quickly blended into muted creams, crisp whites and blacks before the collection jumped into a flurry of navy, interspersed with a standout lime green jumper.

The labels origins are tied to the men’s dress shirt, so it was fitting to see this staple item revisited with a more casual aesthetic with several reincarnations throughout this SS15 collection. Sleeves were short or rolled up with cutaway collars while an oversized striped shirt with a granddad collar was a lesson in smart city dressing with a laid back vibe.

Linen trousers were worn loosely with a high waist, a crisp front pleat and exaggerated turn-ups accompanied by tucked in jumpers, whilst suit jackets and overcoats were cut slightly oversized. Suits and a thickly cabled beige aran jumper were worn with roughly tied cravats providing an alternative to the orthodox men’s dress tie.

Perhaps predicting a wet spring/summer season next year, there were coats a-plenty in an array of colours which were both wearable and practical. The most covetable of the lot? A cobalt blue parka.

It’s safe to say that Howell has developed a winning formula that guarantees she produces classic collections every season, proving that continuity and ingenuity are a match made in sartorial heaven.

Words: Josie Ayre 

The post LCM: Margaret Howell SS15 appeared first on Wonderland.

The duo’s collection was borne from the need for a readdressed form of tailoring which manifested itself in boxy silhouettes evolving from the usual tight cut suits from previous shows. Agi & Sam explained the departure, saying: “When we wear suits, we feel awkward.  It doesn’t feel relevant to us, they’re such a past life experience.  We want to make something smart that adheres to our lifestyle, on our bikes, at meetings, at a party.”

With movement on the mind, wide trousers were worn like extended skateboard shorts with aprons tied above as an ode to the theme of utilitarianism of menswear, while a bomber jacket was topped with vinyl to provide functional ventilation next to the skin.  This kind of practicality is rarely addressed in fashion and bodes well for those who commute via skateboard.

The paradoxical elements of conformity and uniformity were visited throughout the show with loose fitting suit jackets whose silhouettes were derived from Japanese kimonos perfectly encapsulating the vibe.  Hidden poppers ensured minimal detailing in line with the Japanese architectural aesthetic while poly-blended merino wool t-shirts were worn underneath and were heat pressed to appear one-dimensional.

Texture was created with pleats, which ran as a recurring theme throughout the show, mostly seen on trousers varying in width.  The standout piece of the show was undoubtedly a trio of jumpsuits that also played with texture through print, which imitated the raised effect of grouting on the outside of Japanese buildings. This dynamic scratched check echoed the bold monochromatic check of the duo’s previous AW14 collection.

The colour palette was controlled, moving exclusively from colour blocked whites through to muted tones of grey, camel and varying shades of blue while the models sported not-normally-so-chic grown out bowl cuts inspired by 90’s skater boys. Agi & Sam’s SS15 collection fluidly danced between the uniformity of menswear and contemporary ease of wear to provide a wardrobe for the working man on the move.

The Agi & Sam after-party took place at the Sanderson Hotel with Patron Tequila.

Words: Josie Ayre

Photography: Amy Beasley

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